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Found 11 results

  1. I know this is such a micro topic, but in terms of different types of wood, such as Ebony, Rosewood and Boxwood, which wood has what characteristics to sound and which is better in general (boxwood in my city costs way more) and also, does a old German peg differ from possibly Indian or Chinese wood? Is it just a matter of seasoning? How do I test the pegs to determine if it is a good peg? My usual method is to gently flick it and hear if the sound is crisp. lastly, is mechanical other still inferior to manual ones in terms of sound? I have heard mechanical pegs makes the sound of the violin sound more artificial and less natural, so is manual pegs still better? Thank you in advance.
  2. I bought a violin off Facebook Marketplace for cheap expecting a project instrument that I could use to keep me occupied. It’s a fully carved workshop instrument and honestly it’s kind of fine aside from the pegs. They are some old mechanical pegs (I’ll leave my personal vendetta against mechanical pegs out of this) and the E strings peg is broken so it needs to be replaced. I assume there is no hope for finding the same pegs now so I just want to remove them but as you can see there is this metal bushing set into the wood on the tapered end of the peg. I can’t tell if it’s pressure fit, glued, or screwed in but I’m not sure how to get it out. I’ve tried to pull and tap it out but if I use much more force I fear I’ll have to deal with a peg box crack on top of this. P.S. I am aware that there is a good chance I will have to fill the current holes and ream new ones
  3. I've been asked to fit a set of cello fine tune pegs. I have fitted Wittner violin pegs on occasions , work fine but they protrude (pegbox to collar) more than the standard distance As they are very pricey does anyone have any experience of how well they last or which makes are best? Wittner, Knilling and Peghead seem to be the only makes around. Any comments gratefully received! Keith
  4. Lindsayb

    Lindsayb

    I have a Scherl and Roth 3/4 violin I am working on for a local youth program (charity) and am wondering if it is possible to replace a single Caspari-style peg (E string) instead of rebushing the whole peg box to return it to friction pegs. The E string caspari-style peg runs out of thread at an Eb and wont hold with fine tuner adjustments either. All the other pegs are working fine (despite being Caspari!) Any advice would be welcome as I'd like to get this instrument back into a student's hands quickly and cheaply.
  5. Hello I am selling my father's collection of luthier supplies - this is just a few items I've photographed thus far. I also have a full size viola - it is in excellent condition - as it was brought in to our studio just before my dad fell ill and remained in our inventory - purchased from either heinl & co or kessler violin co (chelmsford ontario) about 5 years ago - it needs to sing!!! asking $400 obo ivory fingerboards ivory chin rests bow hair - 15 packs - asking $50 asking $20 each or make me an offer for the lot if approved i will post many more new items - bridges, pegs, items for bows, rib wood, hand carving tools and so on- if you have a specific interest or questions please ask away! we are located in Windsor On. thank you!
  6. Hi Tuning problems! I'm very very inexperienced, took about ten lessons but couldn't afford to continue, so trying to teach myself. I also have a comparatively cheap violin - think it cost about £100. I use the fine tuners as much as I can, but inevitably I have to use the pegs. The pegs don't turn smoothly however - they're really stiff and 'jumpy'. I have to exert quite a lot of pressure to get them to turn, then they turn suddenly and I've a broken string on my hands. Or I get it tuned, but then the pegs just slip and unwind again. I've watched dozens of videos on YouTube about tuning, but everyone's pegs seem to turn easily and then stay put. Tried all sorts of methods, pushing/twisting simultaneously, pulling out slightly, turning, then pushing back in - no avail! This has cost me quite a bit in repairs as I am too inexperienced to attempt it myself - would probably do more harm than good. What am I doing wrong!? Any help much appreciated!
  7. I have long thought that pegs today are much more sticky outy than they used to be. Images of early instruments show the pegs closer to the peg box and I'm thinking the collar butted up against the outer wall of the box and provided extra friction to prevent slipping. Glenn
  8. maria85

    Peg Wood ID

    Hi! I don’t know much about violin work, but from reading on the internet it seems like among the fittings the pegs are the biggest deal to replace. I need a new chintest and tailpiece so it seemed like it would make sense to get the same wood as the pegs. (This is my secondary violin so I’m not concerned about the nuances in the sound that might be caused by the wood type). However, I don’t recognize the wood my pegs are made of. Can anyone identify this, or let me know if there is a reason I should just go with a standard wood instead?
  9. I found this cello today for a very cheap price and I was hoping someone could help me find some information about it. The varnish is starting to crack so the instrument was either mistreated or has some age. Previous owner seems to have rigged bass tuners on the peg box which seemed odd but did work. There is a Stradivarius tag inside the cello; it looks like the model number is HG,644 and the serial number is 505002. It played nicely and had the similar sweet, full sound of other Stradivarius instruments but I couldn't find anything about the instrument. It doesn't have any flamed maple or figured wood types, looks pretty plain, but I don't know much about instrument identification. Not sure if it's a real Strad replica so if anyone could help with my search it would be greatly appreciated. (sorry for the bad photos. just tried to snap a couple before i left.)
  10. I have an old Stainer violin copy from the early 1900s and it needs new pegs. I am trying to find pegs that are similar to what it was originally built with, but the original pegs are much wider than anything I can find. The pegs measure 24 mm in width. Pegs I have purchased are 22 mm. There is a notable difference when viewed side by side. Is this typical of pegs made in that era or do you think maybe they are viola pegs?
  11. Hi, I will be investing in a good-quality reamer. I have my eyes on one of the Herdim coated ones, but I'm not sure whether to go for a spiral model or a fluted one. Which one do you prefer using? I've always used spiral ones before but maybe I've been missing out all this time. Thank you
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