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P Form Template PDF
Nestor Vassiliou posted a topic in The PegboxI made an outline of the P for which was made and used by Antonio Stradivari. I know Addie made templates of the P form as well as many others. His templates where so perfect that he even copied the wear on the recesses for the blocks. So I wanted to make one where these recesses were as "new" while still mainting the outline of the original P form. Also for clamping the blocks/ribs I replaced the holes which where originally used with wooden dowels and ropes as clamps, with something more modern which are rounded rectangular "holes". In my opinion the latter are more convenient for use with g or f clamps. The pdf size is A3. But you can also print it in two A4 papers. There are online websites which split an a3 pdf into two a4. Just if you take this approach make sure that your printer supports borderless printing. Also for both methods you should disable any scaling or fit to page options, as that could potentially alter the dimensions of the form, when printed. The dimensions used to scale the p form and to make the actual template are from ‘Stradivari’ by Stewart Pollens. In a few weeks I will do the same process to make the templates for the g and the pg form as well as a few scrolls. FYI i used Fusion 360 and despite the fact that its a powerful software it still has its limitations. Not only that, but also the images used to make the outline could be distorted blurred etc. These are some of the reasons why my outline could be slightly different than the original p form. I tried to be as precise as possible, but do note that there probably is some slight deviation from the original and there will always be when working from pictures Anyway I hope you find my template useful here's a dropbox link to the pdf https://www.dropbox.com/s/5v8csuh4to1axo7/Maestronet P forma.pdf?dl=0 and here's a rendering of the 3d model of this form.
Getting rid of mold
Televet posted a topic in The PegboxI have talked elsewhere about using ethylene oxide to make safe an old violin that had had too close an encounter with mice and might have been a Hanta Virus risk. Recently a friend mentioned that his two performance violins had been exposed to damp conditions and mould had been found inside both violins. One is an old Italian and the other a contemporary violin by a European maker. We discussed treatment and investigated Ozone (not effective enough against mold spores) and various other options and concluded that The Ethylene Oxide method would likely be the best route, but I was a bit nervous about putting a very valuable instrument through the gas. Everything suggested that all should be well, but in order to allay my concerns we gas sterilized a couple of less valuable violins with oil finishes as a warm up. That gave us n=3 and with only a little trepidation we ran the old Italian through a 12 hour cycle today. As expected (but still much to my relief) everything went well, the violin came out as beautiful as it went in (and also less moldy). Unexpectedly, the label which was almost illegible from the ravages of time and black mold came out of the sterilizer looking like a museum conservator had spent weeks restoring it. I have no explanation for the label, but just wanted to let you all know that this is a very viable method of sterilizing and making safe a violin that has been exposed to such adverse events. Ethylene Oxide sterilizers are fairly common pieces of kit in the veterinary and medical worlds if anyone has a need. They are not expensive to run and they certainly do a good, safe job. Tomorrow it is the turn of the Contemporary European instrument.
Saving the mold
bkwood posted a topic in The PegboxI should have mastered this by now. I am ready to remove the garland from around the mold on my 6th violin (which is going to be a five string). Each time before I have ended up cutting it out, or using a collapsible form I made. I made a new mold for this violin, telling myself I wouldn't be timid about getting it off this time. And yet, I can't seem to do it. The ends don't want to clear the linings. Is there a trick?