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Found 2 results

  1. (Preface: I have done a search for this topic but didn’t find quite what I was looking for) I’m studying the Derber book and I’m on the chapter regarding the center joint. He advocates for a rubbed spring joint for the center joint (no clamping) that is created by using a wooden jointer plane clamped upside down on the work surface upon which the billet (is that the right word?) is dragged across. The Johnson/Courtnall book offers a different method where the wood is clamped and the edge planed by dragging the plane across the wood. This appears to be the most common method of planing boards used by furniture or cabinet makers I’ve seen in YouTube videos. Most of the ones I’ve seen on those videos use a jack plane instead of a jointer plane. My question is, how are you guys planing your joints? Are there other methods than the two I’ve mentioned? I’d rather not make a wooden jointer plane from scratch if I can avoid it. Am I setting myself up for failure if I follow the Johnson/Courtnall method using a jack plane instead?
  2. I am currently making my first violin I have completed the garland and I am currently working on the plates. I prepared the joint for the plates using a very long (about 90cm) wooden jointer plane which was carefully flattened, before using it on jointing the plates. The joints came out very straight and I could see no light through them whatsoever. And I believe me I really tried to see if any light was visible at all by holding them on top of a very bright led panel. I was going to use a rub joint without any clamps, mainly because the clamps I own are cheap/flexible and dont apply the pressure perpendicularly to the joint but rather at an angle, plus I don't really think there is a need for them when using hot hide glue. So long story short I was going to do the back first for the following reason. Due to lack of experience I was expecting to get a gap in the first try, so I would rather if it would be on the back instead of the top which is under a lot more stress. I was right to do so the center joint for the top has zero gap but the back is a different story The back has a gap at the end of the front face and another gap at the opposite end of the other face. These gaps dont go all the way through to the other side. I have a theory as to why this happened. As i did the rub joint for the back i slightly twisted the one side of the plate after the glue had started to "bite". So when i twisted it back into place (so that both the pieced of the back rest on the same "plane") the glue had already gelled and some part of it was pushed out of the joint. But I could be wrong as I have no experience at all so hence the post Is there anyway to close the gap? should I even worry about it? I cant do the join again because I have removed quite a bit of wood. If I remove any more wood from the side of the back to do the joint again, due to the tapered shape of the wood there will be no material left for proper arching height. Thanks in advance for your help Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here are some.
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