Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'bridge'.
-
Bridges collection http://www.auction.fr/_fr/lot/arman-1928-2005-burnt-bridges-1993-accumulation-de-chevalets-de-violon-8371241?from=search#.VZTkFO0aHqA
-
Hi, I play violin for 2 years and my two daughters play violin as well (1/4 and 3/4 size). Since we all play violins, I thought it'd be fun to learn to do some basic setup work. I had my previous violin adjusted a few times by luthiers and it was really interesting to hear the improvements that were made. I have an inexpensive 14" viola that I can use for practice. I don't play it often and it was cheap (Cecilio CVA-500 from Amazon) so if I mess it up, it's not a big loss. I also have my previous violin that I was going to sell, but if I can learn to customize a bridge for it, that would be very interesting too and could help with reselling it, or if I can correct some of its issues it could be interesting for my daughter. I received the StewMac violin setup DVD for Christmas and I really enjoyed it, which increased my desire to try some things myself. The things I'd like to do to my viola are: Make a new bridge Adjust soundpost Fit the pegs - I broke one and had a luthier replace it, the others need to be redone too. Replace the tailpiece with a Whittner with built-in fine tuners (or a tailpiece without fine tuners, I don't have fine tuners on my violin so if the viola pegs are fit properly I don't think I'll need fine tuners on the viola). I've done a lot of googling on the net and searching in these forums and I've learned a lot. But one question I have for which I haven't been able to find an answer is whether a 14" viola would require different parts than a violin? I got the viola in 14" because I still have intonation issues on my violin and I didn't want to be distracted by a larger size viola. So the viola is similar in size to a violin but it's a little bigger and a little taller. When I buy bridge blanks, can I use violin bridge blanks? The bridge that is on it looks similar in size to a violin bridge but it is thicker. I don't know if it needs to be thicker or if it just wasn't fitted properly. Well for the price I'm sure it wasn't customized very well. I also have the same question for the tailpiece, can I use a violin tailpiece? While searching the forums I found someone recommended a pack of 100 bridges from ebay to practice on. So if those will work for the 14" viola I'd like to get them. Here's the link (I hope it's ok to post these, if not the links can be removed): http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-4-100-pcs-violin-bridges-fine-maple-laser-precise-/201134962205?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed493f61d I wrote to the seller and asked what tools he recommends for the setup work I intend to do and he recommended the following in addition to the bridges: a knife - http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/201303798766 sound post tools - http://www.ebay.com/itm/sound-post-gauge-Setter-retriever-luthier-tools-violin-/181585489641?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4756aee9 a mini-plane - I really don't know what this is used for - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Strong-Brass-Mini-plane-curve-underside-violin-making-tools-6086-/351120166490?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51c0648e5a peg reamer and shaver - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-violin-tool-VIOLIN-PEG-HOLE-REAMER-VIOLin-PEG-SHAVE-/181465424465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a402ea251 And I was also planning on getting: whittner tailpiece - http://www.thomann.de/fr/wittner_tailpiece_violin_44.htm a good bridge when I'm ready for it - http://www.thomann.de/fr/aubert_mirecourt_violin_bridge_4_4.htm I live in France and his prices seem to be very good compared to what I've found in France. My questions are: Can I use 4/4 violin parts for the 14" viola? Are there any books or DVDs that would help me to learn the setup items I'd like to do? I know there are a lot of violin books about making violins but for now I just want to focus on the setup. Do you recommend the tools I listed above? Would you recommend any better alternatives? Thank you very much for reading and I look forward to getting some feedback and sharing my progress in this adventure.
-
Hello from Las Vegas! I have a video of a duo recital I did with a fellow cellist here in Las Vegas which I thought might be fun to watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQWMn9AtdQ8 Cheers! Djerzy
-
Hi, First time posting here. The bridge and the fine tuner came with an old violin. Without showing the violin, could someone comment on the style, date, location of the bridge and the fine tuner? The fine tuner hooks onto the E string, the center piece presses down on the string as it turns. Thank you. http://imgur.com/FN7YWZS
-
I've been looking around to see what height my bridge needs to be because it seemed unnaturally high even though it's a medium sized bridge (about 15 mm on the C string and 12 mm on the A string). I was wondering if anyone knew what I need to do to lower it because I have been asked to join the Athens Youth Symphony and my audition for the Governor's Honors Program is coming up and it would probably sound a lot better if my bridge were lower. Please help.
-
Hi, sorry for making another bridge curve/shape topic, since there are already some out there, but instead of resurrecting an old topic, it might be better to make a new one. So first let me start by saying I tried quite a few different bridge templates. Ive tried making my own template, using a 42mm radius, aswell as checking that to the 42mm radius playing surface. I downloaded a bridge template, but all seem to have the same problem. As I go up higher in positions when playing, it gets harder and harder to play one string only. I cannot use the pressure that I would like, as it would cause 2 strings to be played, or even 3 strings. I like to play strong, with enough pressure. Does anyone perhaps have any suggestions about what I can do? I want to make a new bridge template, different from the one Ive been using, so any advice on this will be appreciated. Also, what is the usual preference of classical players, regarding bridge shapes/curves/radius? Thank you.
-
Hi all, I'm more or less a beginner in woodworking & making instruments, and am seeking to specialize in making the pear-shaped lyra/kemençe of Istanbul (http://lyrafiddle.com/) As an experienced player, I'm also interested in discovering how to make my existing instruments sound better, and I'm thinking about investing a chunk of time in figuring out the bridge. Since the instrument is not quite as standardized as the violin family, there seem to be many more variables to explore here, including: - type of wood - height of bridge - curvature of top - tapering from base to top - thickness/length of arm (the bit that extends over the treble soundhole and sits directly on the soundpost) - size of foot (the single piece that sits on the soundboard) - number of holes & shape of holes etc. Does it makes sense to use any engineering design tools (i.e. modal analysis using FEM) to analyze the geometric variables, and is this even possible given the strong anisotropic properties of wood? Does anyone here have experience or words of advice in case I'm embarking on a futile mission?
-
I was pleased to complete a bridge using a microscope to assist the carving and measurements. This was an Aubert Luxe blank fininshed to a Hill pattern,
-
First of all please forgive the leaps of assumptions I will make in this write up. I purchased a blem Shar Amadeus viola as wrech around for travel etc. It actually has a pretty nice sound but being an engineer I can't leave well enough alone. So I did the normal setup stuff soundpost and bridge. The problem that I'm having is because eventhough the bridge fits perfectly without the strings. Under string tension the bass side seens to change shape making the end of the bridge pull away from the viola surface. Is this normal for violas to do this? I've set up only 2 violas before this and none of them had this problem. OK so heres where the assumptions start. In puting in the sound post I noticed little squares of wood down the center line on both the top and the bottom plates. To make sense of this my theory is that the plates are CNC machined and the wood blocks are just the reminants of this process. Inspecting the base bar I see no evidence thats its glued in. Makeing me believe that its also CNC machined. If this is the case would this viola benefit from a real base bar thats glued in? Since I'm doing it myself I'm not concerned about cost. Its more of a fun project. I was also going to experiment with tap tuning just as a learning experience. The sound of it right now is very nice on the C and G strings actually its perfect. But its kind of echoy on the D and A strings. It actually kind of rings when playing on those 2 strings. Any thoughts in regard to changing the base bar?
