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  1. I just got a new bridge for my Montagnana cello yesterday and I'm finding out that the height between the end of the fingerboard and the bridge is 7.5mm at the A string and 10mm at the C string. I have Jargar medium gauge strings on the A and D and Spirocore, tungsten wound (also medium gauge) on the G and C. Aside from the string height, the my cello sounds much more beautiful with the new bridge and the only problem is the facility to play it. Should I bring it back to the guy who worked on my cello or just learn to live with the high strings?
  2. I don't know if this is typical or the fault of the much discussed USPS "slowdown," but yesterday I received both July and August issues of The Strad. :-( In any case, in the one with Two Set on the cover (arrrgh), there's a letter from someone trying to argue with an article Hargrave wrote on string angle/force some time ago, and they had Roger respond and nicely set the letter writer straight. :-) (actually, on the higher saddle, and it's possible effect on string force on bridge) Your thoughts?
  3. Hi there I want to buy a few quality bridges to test the effect it has on the sound of a violin. Can someone perhaps suggest some high quality brands I can try? So far Ive worked mostly with Aubert Made in France bridges. Im interested to try a Josef Teller bridge aswell, like the one in this auction: Also
  4. Drumskin for sale 18 inches in diameter, 0.2 - 0.3 mm thick Appears opaque, but it becomes clear after scraping and glued. Almost invisible when glued to the bridge. You can get over 3,500 pieces for violin or 1,200 for cello. Hard to find calfskin. $50 per sheet, ($10 for shipping in US or Canada) Koo Young Chung Please PM me.
  5. We had a violin come in our workshop for some seams to be glued recently. The player had a bridge made a while ago. He proudly showed me two small points that an American violin restorer had put into the front with sharp point, at the corner of each bridge foot. This was to mark the position of the bridge. If the violin was a cheap fiddle, I probably wouldn’t care but this is a good mid-18th Century Italian violin. Personally I was surprised by this. What do other restorers think of this method? Is this a new technique that is wide spread?
  6. Hello everybody! I've been too busy this past year to follow the forum much or do much violin making, but I've been getting a little time to get back into it lately and I thought I'd post this to see what some of your thoughts might be on the topic. Last summer I finished a violin with very low arching. (As a matter of fact a bit lower and scoopier around the edges than I originally intended, but I got a little over aggressive in the rough out stage...I eyeball it at about 12mm finished up) After installing the neck with "traditional" overstand and projection values (7mm, 27mm) I found I
  7. First, I'm sorry for such a basic question. I am a total newbie to the violin (well, I now have almost a couple months of practicing). The problem is that looking at pictures of violins in Internet I just realized now that maybe my violin's bridge is not set up properly. I bought my violin, a Yamaha AV5-SC, brand new from an on-line retailer. I love this violin. Although a (relative) cheap violin, a few hundreds dollars, even I can tell this violin will be above my skill level for a long while. To the point, the violin came all set up, with its bridge in place. Obviously, the vi
  8. Hi, I was browsing ebay for violins, and I came upon this. What is that metal pin under the bridge foot for? It says the violin is experimental, but what is the use of that? Anyone have some insight on this? Thanks.
  9. Weeee! I finished my first violin bridge today! Only took me 10 hours to make! How long is it supposed to take an experienced luthier to cut these?
  10. I have a cello I just bought used. It was hardly played. Probably because of the buzzing. Have not played since High School and trying it again. I have played guitar for years and work on my own instruments. Familiar with basic guitar setup. On this cello it does not buzz on open strings. When fretting the A and somewhat D string in first or second position it buzzes very bad. I attached two pictures. In the first I used a straight edge and there is light between the straight edge & fingerboard from just below the nut to the top of the body. In the second picture my
  11. Hello All, I am returning to the cello, after about thirty-five years of ignoring my beautiful-but-impossible-to-tune instrument. It is a wonderful cello, but the pegs slip and are difficult to turn, and this is basically why I was discouraged and stopped playing. Should I find a luthier to work on the pegs? Is this done? I live in the West Palm Beach area, and would appreciate local recommendations. Also, my bridge is warped, beyond repair, and I don't remember if I need a bridge custom cut, or if I can order one on Amazon, and play it -out-of-the-box.
  12. Hello to everyone this is De Paoli from Canada I would like to add more photos of tone wood and accessories that we have if there is an interest please let me know as we are moving from our present location over the next month and would like all this wonderful collection to go to luthier's hands! the next few posts will be of pics but if you request something specific i can post many more! thanks again for the interest!
  13. I thought of a simple way to check clearance at the bridge inside a closed case. Wish I thought of it before, but if anyone has a better way I'd love to know. Pretty common concern, but I've usually relied on wear patterns and my best guess. To check the clearance I used a piece of drafting tape with a second piece folded over so the middle was not sticky. I used this to create a pocket that a short piece of wood (I used a tongue depressor) can slide up and down with little resistance when taped against the back of the bridge. End result is that I can close the case and check the clearance.
  14. I notice here (and have seen it on modern instruments too) that string spacing on the bridge is not always the standard 11.5mm. D and A are sometimes closer. True? If so why? Thanks folks.
  15. Hello everyone I have some lovely pieces of Cello tonewood they are two piece - some already joined and a couple still in half I have cello ribs a few scrolls bridge finger boards cello mold/frame if anyone's interested please let me know!n thanks!
  16. A colleague asked me for pictures of old cello bridges. Especially they're looking for bridges made by Mantegazza. I've already sent them this link Since I couldn't help them further I'm asking forum members for help. Thanks in advance
  17. Wondering what people listen for to guide tonal adjustments in setup? I know for myself, to a large degree I'm listening to brightness versus darkness in the tone. And I mostly associate that with a generally more tensioned and strong setup giving harder brighter results, and lower tension tending more toward dark. I know I'm trying to maximize power and response in the tone, while balancing other factors. I want to strike a balance making brightness or darker warmth available in the tone, and a balance between openness of tone and a more reedy firmness of tone. Presuming
  18. So I got a old Juzek cello (brand name) on ebay. It arrived, dissasembled, of course (what fun!), and came with bridge that had feet that look like this: The feet are scalloped. The edges connect to the top perfectly. I've never seen this before; anyone know what it could be for?
  19. Bridges collection
  20. Hello all, Some bridge makers claim their bridges have been treated (whilst untreated bridges are also available). Could you tell me what is the purpose of treatment and what chemicals do they use? Do they treat the wood just because of darker look, or because of sound quality? Thanks!
  21. Hi, I play violin for 2 years and my two daughters play violin as well (1/4 and 3/4 size). Since we all play violins, I thought it'd be fun to learn to do some basic setup work. I had my previous violin adjusted a few times by luthiers and it was really interesting to hear the improvements that were made. I have an inexpensive 14" viola that I can use for practice. I don't play it often and it was cheap (Cecilio CVA-500 from Amazon) so if I mess it up, it's not a big loss. I also have my previous violin that I was going to sell, but if I can learn to customize a bridge for it, that
  22. Hello from Las Vegas! I have a video of a duo recital I did with a fellow cellist here in Las Vegas which I thought might be fun to watch. Cheers! Djerzy
  23. Hi, First time posting here. The bridge and the fine tuner came with an old violin. Without showing the violin, could someone comment on the style, date, location of the bridge and the fine tuner? The fine tuner hooks onto the E string, the center piece presses down on the string as it turns. Thank you.
  24. I've been looking around to see what height my bridge needs to be because it seemed unnaturally high even though it's a medium sized bridge (about 15 mm on the C string and 12 mm on the A string). I was wondering if anyone knew what I need to do to lower it because I have been asked to join the Athens Youth Symphony and my audition for the Governor's Honors Program is coming up and it would probably sound a lot better if my bridge were lower. Please help.
  25. Hi, sorry for making another bridge curve/shape topic, since there are already some out there, but instead of resurrecting an old topic, it might be better to make a new one. So first let me start by saying I tried quite a few different bridge templates. Ive tried making my own template, using a 42mm radius, aswell as checking that to the 42mm radius playing surface. I downloaded a bridge template, but all seem to have the same problem. As I go up higher in positions when playing, it gets harder and harder to play one string only. I cannot use the pressure that I would like, as it would