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Found 7 results

  1. ufuk guler

    turquoise bow

    From the album: Turquoise Bow

    -It was placed Turquoise mineral instead of “eyes” and “abalone” on the frogs.-Turquoise is a mineral identified with the Turks and the name is coming in this way.-It was placed two different colors abolone besides turquoise.-The eyes resemble crescents and facing each other based on the "Cintamani" motif which is widely used in Eastern cultures and thought to symbolize power-There were only two eyes on the frog and It was not completing number of the crescent. For that reason I used same shape at the end of button and the number was completed.-I used raw silk obtained by traditional way and 18 k rose gold thread for lapping..
  2. I just wanted to introduce people on Maestronet to a newly introduced product for repairing and replacing bow tips. It is called Tip Armor, made by David Warther. This is a new synthetic tip plate, sure to pass by even the most ignorant of Customs officials. I just got done with an urgent repair order of re-tipping a dozen bows using this product, and I am quite impressed. I had not used it before this week, and so I was a bit nervous about the results. Overall, I really liked it, and will begin recommending it for use in the future. I think that this will become a viable and accepted option for use on bows both old and new. I didn't take any pictures of the bows that I re-tipped, but the next bow I use it on, I will take some before and after pictures. Tip Armor is horizontally reinforced, so there are actually material fibers that give strength to the thin edges along the hair mortise. This means that Tip Armor will not deform there like plastic, and will not crack there like mammoth or ivory. The material is easy to bend to the face curve of any bow, and glues easily. However, it is very hard, and does take an effort to file, but once I became familiar with the way it worked down, it was really no more difficult to use than mammoth ivory. Cutting the mortise was easier than in mammoth due to the absence of “grain” (in other words, there was no preferential direction that was easier to cut). Cutting the mortise does require a sharp knife and bevel-edge chisel. The main thing that is a bit different, is that the face of the finished tip does not polish as highly as mammoth does. I ended up leaving the tips with a finely sanded (to 4000 grit micro mesh), but still slightly matte finish that looked fine. As far as how it works down with a file, chisel and knife: I would rate it as far easier to use than bone, but slightly more difficult to file than mammoth. Plastic tips are easy to work down, but are prone to problems. Bone tips just are just awful and should not ever be used. The following is my rundown of currently available options for bow tips: Silver (and gold) Not difficult to work down, but difficult to glue. It works best with pins, but that is not always recommended in the bow if it did not have pins originally. Silver also is heavier than other options. Ivory Classic, but should not be used anymore Mammoth Easy to work with, bends well, glues well, and looks like ivory. Unfortunately, it can be confused with ivory, so is at risk with Customs officials. Note: The sale of mammoth is now prohibited in New York and New Jersey. Tip Armor Bends easily and glues well, very strong and very hard. A bit more of an effort to work down than mammoth. At a glance, looks like mammoth, but is obviously synthetic upon inspection. “Ivoroid” plastic Grained plastic that looks like ivory. Glues easily and files easily, but tends to deform and crack with time, looks better than regular plastic. Plastic Very easy to bend and glue. Very easy to file and cut the mortise. Unfortunately, it just looks like white plastic and is appropriate for cheaper bows. Bone Very brittle, tends to crack easily, damn near impossible to bend, does not glue well, absorbs oils, tends to absorb color from case fabric, is porous, and is an awful thing to put on the heads of bows. Tip Armor bow tips can be ordered at the following website. http://www.guitarpartsandmore.com/?nav=products&cat=27 From the website: Made of AMW-814, a polymer composite. This recently developed polymer has been formulated for strength and flexibility and engineered in a way to allow artisans to work the material with ease utilizing standard carving and bow making tools. This material bends with finger strength and holds its bow tip curve for application without the typical process of soaking and press-forming. Simply bend the floor to the needed curvature and glue into place. Then shape, sand and carve as you would mammoth ivory or other materials. Several glues work well including hide glue and superglue (CA glue) which works very well. This is the latest development in violin bow tip technology and these incredibly well machined and strong bow tips are made exclusively here at David Warther & Co.. These have been developed to fill the need for a highly durable bow tip that can enter international trade because they are made of a polymer rather than a natural material. This material looks like ivory until looked at closely wherein one plainly sees a patterned design in the material itself that clearly shows (to any customs agent) it is not ivory. Mid-size international orders ship free - see shipping page for details. These also provide the bow making and repairing community with an extremely durable bow tip that is a time saver for application artisans. Bow makers are finding this material easier to work than the natural materials such as bone and fossil ivory and far easier to work than the plastic and casein based bow tips. In addition to ease and speed of application is the strength and durability factor. This material is simply as tough as nails and can take a lot of punishment.Tip Armor is a registered trademark of David Warther & Co..
  3. The League of American Orchestras writes today that "One major exception to the rules will allow musicians to buy and sell instruments with small amounts of ivory, as well as carry them on international flights.… ‘We are so pleased,’ said Heather Noonan, the vice president for advocacy at the League of American Orchestras. ‘We’re particularly pleased that the rule confirms that domestic trade and international travel with existing musical instruments that contain small amounts of African elephant ivory aren’t contributing to the poaching crisis.’ NY Times story at http://www.nytimes.com/2016/06/03/world/africa/elephant-ivory-ban.html?_r=0
  4. Hopefully there is some small bit of relief when traveling with instruments / bows that contain ivory? Not clear how the rules will change, but perhaps a step in the right direction. Article at: http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/travel/302219501.html
  5. Hi everyone, I'm hoping to get some advice about traveling with my bows. I'll be relocating from Australia to the U.S. for work early next year, and will be bringing my violin with me. My concerns are for my 2 pernambuco bows and their tips (my third bow is a codabow and I presume I can print info off the Codabow website to show there's no ivory present). I've owned these bows for the past 20 years but no longer have any receipts to prove I've had them that long. Can anyone advise what the best course of action would be? I've thought about replacing the tips with another material but would prefer if I didn't absolutely have to do so... Thanks in advance, Ken
  6. I am currently fitting both nut and saddle on a baroque violoncello and quite close to the glue phase - I notice the synthetic ivory nut popped off with just a dab of synthetic hyde glue (titebond) when I set it temporarily. Anyone have any experience with the ivory from DICTUM and the best glue experience? The material appears and works like plastic of course and is nasty stuff as far as I am concerned, however I cannot afford mammoth right now. I was thinking to try hyde glue tomorrow and see how the saddle works out - I just cant imagine this fake ivory to suck up and absorb much glue as would a natural wood material...... Endgrain and fake ivory perhaps seem to need something a bit more powerful? Thanks for your help!
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