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Showing results for tags 'Cello'.
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I just got a Cello. It had been sitting in my aunts closet for a long time, and when I got it out the strings were very lose, and some were off the pegs. It’s a Knilling cello, but I’m not sure of the make, model, or even size. Any tips regarding to setup?
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I keep seeing Ernst Reinhold Schmidt instruments popping up and am wondering about the varying quality. Some can look very nice. I know this topic was briefly discussed awhile back, but in cellos, for example, the prices can vary by many thousands. It was mentioned that some can be very fine, but what is “very fine” for a large workshop/factory? Or did Ernst himself actually play a role in the building of certain instruments?
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I travel quite a bit for work anyway, but it would be an extra trip to check this out... turn it into a father son trip? What do you think? https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/msg/d/britt-mittenwald-early-19th-century/6804253086.html
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This is a smallish 7/8 cello that is on loan to me. I am very curious about how old it might be and of course, who the maker might be. The person who was storing this cello seems to know nothing about this cello except it’s “old”. Help appreciated!!
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I have a fine old cello on my bench right now that needs a new bridge. It’s in now because the cello was bumped and the bridge was broken. I had cut the previous bridge for it and put my usual spread in the feet, but I found that the feet spread wider as the months went on. I suspect this happened because this cello had a rather barrel-like arch and string tension and the arch shape encouraged more spread than usual. Now that I’m cutting another bridge, I’d like to avoid this issue if possible. My question is as follows: Would you put extra spread in the feet when cutting this bridge or leave it alone? I’m concerned about overloading it with too much pressure and I want to avoid using a wider bridge because the bass bar is far enough in that I really don’t want the feet any farther apart.
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Hello, I am a cellist in Australia trying to find the cello of my dreams (no easy task in this part of the world!). Can anyone help me out with information about this maker? I have just come across a cello dated from 1981 by this maker. It is very hard to get information about the overseas makers here in Australia, and what they should be worth…...
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Can someone please help me identify this cello. I've found it on eBay and one of the images shows tag that says "fait à Mirecourt par le Maitre Luthier Amedée Dieudonné en 1936" and I don't know if it's legit or not. Back plate seems like it's from one piece of wood which I find odd. Any information is appreciated.
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This crack downward from the upper hole has been cleated and is stable. The soundpost sits approx 16-20mm west... I was wondering if it’s still considered a soundpost crack?
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What the...!? The only thing I can think of for this label is a handwritten counterfeit attempted only after someone was sucked into a mirror after a botched use of a Ouiji board. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163362396836 And pictures, in case the listing mysteriously disappears.
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My Mom gave us her cello about 5 years ago that she has had most of her life and she is now almost 70. It has part of a marking on the inside that says "made in Germany", but that is the only identification I can find. We are going to have to sell it and I don't have any idea what maker it is from or what general price I should try to sell it at. She played it in many orchestras and other cellists thought it had a wonderful sound. Any help you could provide would be wonderful! Thank you. -Jonathan
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Hii :) I need to get new Cello strings, particularly the A string (the core is showing on that one...) and I'm not sure what to choose. I have played the Cello for about 4 years and I currently have pirastro piranito strings. I like them quite well but I'm thinking of maybe upgrading. I still want steel strings, I like the sound :) I have had my strings for about 2 years (I think) but I haven't really used my C and G strings a lot so they are still fine and it feels like a shame to just throw them out. So I'm thinking of maybe only getting a new A string or both getting new A and D strings. And to possibly get a different A string from the rest of the strings. Does anybody have any suggestion of what would be a good combo? Or if I change all of them what a good upgrade set would be? :)
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Assuming the LOB for a cello is 740-765mm, is the vibrating string length always optimally set at 695mm? Are there ever anomalies to this standard?
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I bought this cello in 2015 and sold it to a student...now they are asking if I'd like to buy it back for $2200. I'm tempted to buy it back. Though I'm wondering what the value of this most-likely-copy is... I found more detailed pictures of this same cello online... http://s78.photobucket.com/user/violiniada/library/2014/December%202014/CELLO%20GERMAN%20OR%20BOHEMIAN%20CARLO%20TONONI?sort=9&page=1
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Hi. Please see the attached picture. Its the bottom of the cello and there’s that black thing. Is that something that you see in some cellos or did they just cut the ribs too short and put in a filler? Thanks from Kevin.
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I have a cello that has an obvious fingerboard dip near 4th position (heel area). It takes a nice dip and then increases a few centimeters toward the bridge. The buzz is across all four strings. Usually lightly sanding slight dips are easy, but this is a bit more severe. It has a newer fingerboard with plenty of wood to work with. I’m afraid that a block plane will take an excessive amount of ebony... is there an easier way? Can I approach the leveling from the nut or the bridge side with better and more efficiency?
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Hi there Kevin again. I wound up getting a Yita T20, MC7000, “Best Quality“ cello after all. I put in a bid on eBay and thought someone would bid it up. Well, they didn’t - so its mine. I’ve posted a few pictures. There doesn’t seem to be many close up pictures online so I thought I’d post some. I haven’t set it up, but I can immediately tell the bridge feet don’t fit so it so I’ll either have to get it better fit or get a new one. A new tailpiece is probably in order too. This was all expected given the price I paid, which was $711 + $189 shipping. Overall, the body is really nice and the wood appears to have been aged fairly well. One thing that I noticed was the top and bottom of the back have been nailed to the blocks. (pictured) Also, there is a noticeable imperfection in the neck that I’ve pictured. I’m wondering if its just on the surface or whether it will crack through over time, or whether the top block will hold it together. What do you think? Perish the thought of sending it back to China. Only the luthier will know. Otherwise, the body seems really great and I’m confident it will produce a good sound. Anyway, here are the pics. I’ll keep y’all posted.
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Here is a summer project... wondering the origin. My guess is amateur American, Ca. 1930. The scroll is further than 6 o’clock, more like 7:30, or so. Ffs look like a first attempt. Though fully lined with corner blocks, the slight view of the c block looks not let in, nor mitred. The purfling also looks like an amateur, especially at the corners. It has some unidentified glue, a sound post patch, and well... let’s just say it was not expensive
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I found this cello today for a very cheap price and I was hoping someone could help me find some information about it. The varnish is starting to crack so the instrument was either mistreated or has some age. Previous owner seems to have rigged bass tuners on the peg box which seemed odd but did work. There is a Stradivarius tag inside the cello; it looks like the model number is HG,644 and the serial number is 505002. It played nicely and had the similar sweet, full sound of other Stradivarius instruments but I couldn't find anything about the instrument. It doesn't have any flamed maple or figured wood types, looks pretty plain, but I don't know much about instrument identification. Not sure if it's a real Strad replica so if anyone could help with my search it would be greatly appreciated. (sorry for the bad photos. just tried to snap a couple before i left.)
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Hello I'm putting this out there to see if anyone can help me. My mother just moved house and she doesn't have room for the cello any more. Not sure how much it is worth but it was made by a relative in the 1880s, so I want to make sure it's not damaged. I bought a hard case for it but would like a box to protect the case during shipping. I will ship it fedex UK to USA. It's a full size cello. The case dimensions are 140 x 56.5 x 39 cm. It came in a box but unfortunately that box is no longer available. I contacted the casemanufacturer and they haven't responded. Does anyone have an idea of where I can get a box? I'll be travelling between Manchester and Edinburgh with a biggish car. If I can't get a suitable box, any recommendations on packing the cello another way? Any help you can provide is appreciated! Many thanks! Cheers, Dave -
Have you heard of JOHANNES KÜNSTLER? The label says markneukirchen, representing this might from a student of this string-making university.
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The Acadia Trad Festival, to be held June 24-29, 2018, is a week of classes, workshops, concerts, community dances and music sessions held at the College of the Atlantic campus on the shores of Frenchman Bay in Bar Harbor, Maine. The 2018 Acadia Trad Festival will focus on Irish, Scottish, Cape Breton, Acadian, Québecois and Old-Time music and dance styles, and boasts a world-class faculty. Major classes are offered in fiddle, banjo, guitar, bouzouki, mandolin, harp, cello, flute, whistle, accordion, dance, and fiddle-making. Additional instruments and genres are offered as afternoon workshops. For more information, and to register or purchase concert tickets, visit https://acadiatradschool.org.
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Hi everybody I've been playing around with luthiery for a couple of years. Nothing big, just restored a couple of violins, rehaired some bows, done some setups and is just about to be done with my very first instrument built from scratch. It's just an electric guitar, but it's a nice one and it's a start. Now here's the thing: I'm a cellist. I can play a lot of strings, but I want to have an instrument that I've worked on that I can play a little more seriously than violins and guitars, partly so I can see if the things I do actually feels right if you're a more experienced player. I found an old cello on ebay that, sadly, has been sanded down. Even though it's a shame, it's a great opportunity for me to sget into working on cellos, have an instrument to play that I've been working on and also carry out a dream I've had about getting a stained black cello, not just black paint or lacquer. All of that I can finally do without ruining a valuable instrument. I don't expect much from it tonally, (it doesn't seem to me like it's overly well built) but of course I can hope. That was a lot of background... My actual question is: Would it be possible to convert a normal cello into a five string one (I'm thinking low F rather than high E)? I realize it's a big and risky procedure, but I wanted to ask some more experienced builders what it would take. The idea came to me a couple of hours ago, so I haven't thought it all through yet, but here are my thoughts so far: 1 - Will the neck be able to take the pressure? 2 - Will I be able to make the fingerboard wide enough by just "fanning" it out a little from the neck rather than getting it square? 3 - I expect the tone of the cello to be changed, but would it necessarily be to the worse? I'm thinking that the bass bar is positioned for a four string bridge and would sound worse with a wider bridge? Now this is just pure guesswork, I haven't looked much into the construction's affect on tone even though I find it really interesting. 4 - If I plug the pegholes and drill new ones, would the pegbox then be strong enough to support an extra string? 5 - I'm used to four string cellos of course. I expect there to be a very different arch on the strings and a smaller spacing. How should I make that arch for best playability and does anybody know how big of a difference the spacing makes? I hope somebody has the patience and experience to help me out here. Please tell me if I've forgotten something. Have a great day :-) Tobias
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I am considering a set of Wittner fine tuners for my new cello. I have searched and can not find much conversations since 2012. I would be interested in comments about WIttners internal geared tuners for cellos - Here are my initial thoughts for getting them: 1. They reduce the movement of the strings thus reduce flexing of the bridge while tuning, especially during times of extreme humidity changes? 2. They eliminate fine tuners from the tail piece, making it simpler and less damping to harmonics? 3. They do not require "gluing in" as the other competing systems to, which is less damaging to the pegbox? I respect everyone here so much, I would greatly appreciate comment on experience and opinions about the Wittner Fine Tuners, especially for a new student and cello! Frank
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A local luthier is closing down, and has offered me an instrument with a very decent discount. It is a brand new cello built by the Hungarian master builder Péteri Károly in 2014. The instrument sounds really nice, but it has this "artifact" on the top: https://i.imgur.com/OgdMddD.jpg On the instrument, it is located here: https://i.imgur.com/Qj94RsY.jpg?1 Does anyone have an opinion on wether or not this is, or can become, a problem? Thank you in advance for your opinion in this matter!
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Hello. This forum had been such a great resource so far for me as a passionate hobby luthier. Sometimes you come across things and wonder if it’s authentic, like this W.E. Hill cello bow. What seems right By playing it it feels like it because despite it’s pretty superb. There is a little nick in the form of an Y in the lower mortise which would indicate that it’s by Sydney Yeoman. The varnish is reddish oil based. What seems questionable The frog is a nice piece of high quality ebony for sure but it doesn’t have that smooth polish. Or I would expect more of a polish. what seems off The tip is not made of silver but of ivory. There are no markings on the tip. And the metal bits on the frog aren’t silver. What do you guys think? Could this be real? It comes from an auction and bought it for 2900 kr in Norway which equals to 350 USD. It’s a nice price for a very a superbly playing bow. It might be dirt cheap for a W.E. Hill. If it’s real what would the value more or less be? And what might be the value if it were fake? About restoring bows. I restore bows. Rehairing and repairing. The silver plated winding should ideally be replaced and the leather too of course. If this is well done on a real Hill bow would it increase or decrease the value? Or should I rewind it with the original but worn wire? Greetings, Douwe
