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edi malinaric

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Everything posted by edi malinaric

  1. Hi Rekotch - You sound like a nice sane sort of guy - asking reasonable questions. Only, if you have been following this forum for even a short period of time, you surely must have realised that dabbling with luthiery is an early sign of impending insanity - and incurable to boot! The "dumpster" brigade are not being unkind, not really, their addiction has already reached maybe Stage 7. Recognising this, you might think that they are now trying to discourage others following them down that slippery path. Don't be fooled! They are actually hoping to discourage you from beating them to the next dumpster, auction, flea market, deceased estate etc. It's best to Ignore them - or set your alarm clock a hour earlier and beat them at their own game. :-) For you? There's no hope. Welcome - edi.
  2. Hi Dave - interesting how these threads stir the memory. We were on a day-long slog up a river to attack some vertical rock faces when I was subjected to an attack of Montezuma's revenge. Initially slightly embarrassing - however after using up all my small stock of paper serviettes (far superior to toilet paper), then every one else's supply, then all the brown paper packets....I finally began making use of rounded river stones! I soon became quite skilled at recognising the superior article. Even gave thought to slipping one into my pack - infinitely re-usable! Rejected the idea on the grounds that paper was lighter and en-route rivers uncommon. We never arrived at the base of the mountain - I was one of two leaders and the party unanimously decided not to take the risk of following me up a rock face! Possible soiled hand-holds and the like. Boy did they rub it in! A surprisingly weakened Edi made it back to the farm where we had parked the car while his pack followed precariously balanced on top of a friend's pack. Mmmm - the colour changed from medium brown to a brownish-yellow - maybe you have a point. cheers edi
  3. Hi JGough - interesting! Assuming that the bridge and nut are parallel, I would agree with your luthier. What strings does the violin have and what is their approximate age? While we are looking at things could you measure the height of the strings from the fingerboard i) at the nut and ii) at the end of the f/b? (Measure to the underside of the strings) cheers edi
  4. Hi Jim - and that's more true than you could ever imagine. Thanks edi
  5. Hi Guy - Last companion was a wolf-dog. Mother was a Siberian wolf. Father was a Grey Wolf/Belgian Shepherd cross. Done my nut but can't make him fit any instrument. He was complete in himself. cheers edi
  6. Hi All - the last step I do before checking the edge, is to clean off the burr by dragging the edge of the blade through a piece of scrap spruce. Adrian - your edge has improved greatly since your first pics - well done. Further improvement and consistency only come with practice - and you have a lifetime of that ahead of you. ;-) cheers edi
  7. Mmmm - maybe tap-tuning is the future. :-) cheers edi
  8. Hi Adrian - you might well be at the limit of sharpness that you can achieve with a 200 grit - just a thought. Time to move on to finer grits and micro-bevels. http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/bevels.html cheers edi
  9. Hi Adrian - some enjoyable reading. http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/index.html cheers edi
  10. Hi Adrian - as far as I'm concerned a high speed bench grinder has no business coming anywhere close to any cutting edge. Once at the gliding club we were stripping off decades of paint from the wooden D-box on the wing of a K13 glider. One of our members arrived with a 3/4" chisel that had met a nail. The nail won! There was this half-round notch - about 2.5mm deep into the edge. The remainder of the edge was nothing to brag about either. I gave him my chisel and pulled out a small whetstone that lives in my toolbox (3"x1"x3/8" ~ 220 grit) and started working away at his chisel. It took a little more than an hour (iirc) to work the bevel back and remove the notch. Flattened my stone quite nicely too. It's too easy to be seduced by power tools - a best way of thinking about them is that they make mistakes quicker and with less effort. cheers edi
  11. Hi Jerry - thank you for mentioning Joe Regh. I found his web site and found this article. https://www.reghviolins.com/publications/2008VSA_bowpaneldiscussion.pdf In the article he describes what he achieved with forming the camber on a form and through-heating. My reasoning was almost identical but I may have not taken the temperature high enough. Maybe I should revisit this technique. cheers edi
  12. Hi Jerry - sorry - the hot air gun was a tongue in cheek comment aimed against myself. I once tried to camber the stick by clamping it against a carved mould and then heating it in a cardboard box with my hot air gun. I was hoping that heating the stick all the way through would be a way of getting a repeatable camber. It wasn't successful. It was too expensive in time and one still needed to over-bend the stick. An alcohol flame works much quicker and better. cheers edi
  13. Hi Jerry - All agreed. I've seen school bows with almost half the hairs missing????? Luckily I didn't mention equalising the hair tension with a hot air gun. :-) cheers edi
  14. Neat looking scroll - looks nice and frenchly delicate. cheers edi
  15. Hi Suganth - please humour an old engineer - loosen the strings and spin the endpin so that the locking screw aligns with E-W. I know, I know, it doesn't do anything for the tone or playability - but the aesthetics! cheers edi :-)
  16. Now for some heresy! Why not wash the hairs, trim the unsightly broken ends away, give it some rosin and continue using it? cheers edi
  17. Spit, yellow duster, elbow grease and gobs of patience. This century the yellow duster has morphed into microfibre cheers edi
  18. Hi Adrian - if you try you should be able to read a measuring tape to 0.2mm. It's just a matter of focus. cheers edi
  19. Hi Don - no sweat. Just drill a dowel+clearance sized hole up from the bottom and the weights become "safe". cheers edi
  20. Hi Andrian - it looks like you are "rolling" the edge during sharpening. Try keep the edge angle constant all the way through the "lift off" stage of your swipe along the stones. An edge is the intersection of two flat planes. Luck edi
  21. Hi Don - the mind works in funny ways while we are asleep. This morning , in that lovely, half awake, dozy moment before being fully "there", I was visualising a bass bar "comb" with various sized ball bearings glued to the tip of each vary-length "tooth". This then merged into a discussion with my other self on the merits of wolf-note suppression and the possibilities of castanet-like clacking while doing left hand pizzicato. I opened the I -net and you show this! Mmmm - maybe some serious thought on the l/d ratios of the various teeth, using same sized masses but made from various materials - lignum vitae to balsa - or depleted uranium to lithium. The possibilities, the possibilities - the mind boggles :-) I like your positioning/clamping add-on jigs - I like them "bigly". If you check out the top picture in my post you'll see an extra 0.5mm of thickening carved (uncarved?) into the plate for the SP. (It's just peeping out from behind the aluminium bar.) cheers edi
  22. Hi Don - did you cobble up a "go-bar" thingy for gluing in the BB? Also what do you use for that pad at the SP? "Mass under the bass foot..." Now why did you write that? My next BB might just have an ebony flange on top. cheers edi
  23. Hi All - between a couple of minor TIAs and hearing aid drama I've avoided contributing to this bass bar goulash. My bad - so here goes - Bass Bar a la edi. One thing that many hours of research have shown is that nobody knows. So I do it this way... Data: i) the height of an integral bass bar is basically from the top of ribs to highest point of the arching. ii) the stress diagram for a point loaded beam is a triangle from the point load to each end of the beam. Procedure: iii) clamp a stiff bar across bottom of the plate and measure the height to the top of the plate every 20mm with 0 being in line with the inner notches of the f-hole. iv) measure the plate thickness at these points. v) calculate the height of the bass bar as though measured from the top of the plate. vi) subtract the thickness of the plate from the heights calculated in v) * vii) carve away viii) trim the ends of the bass bar 40mm back from the ribs. ix) admire the sexy curve ;-) * the only reason to do this is because, while trimming the height of the bass bar, it is easier measure the height from the inside of the plate. If you now press the plate flat onto a level board, the sexy curve of the bass bar ends up as a triangle. Seems to work out OK and at least the curve of the bass bar has a vague connection to the arching, plate thickness and a stress diagram. cheers edi
  24. Hi All - just returned from the audiologist with my rebuilt hearing aids - they look like new. Took the opportunity to have a new audiograph test. Almost 5 years to the day since the previous one. Yes, there is further deterioration. Not much more than might have been expected. Apparently it's mostly the reward for reaching my 8th decade. After resetting the gain in the hearing aids to offset the loss in the various frequencies everything is so loud! The little Citroen has developed a host of rattles that I barely noticed before!! Our Australian Shepherd's bark is overly penetrating!!! However I'll follow her advice - live with them for 2 weeks and then decide whether to have things re-adjusted. cheers edi ps - apparently last week they rebuilt no fewer than 4 other pairs of "dog-munched" hearing aids. One-a-day! do they use a dog-friendly plastic?
  25. Hi Jacob - mmm - the label - but which one? :-) cheers edi
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