edi malinaric

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About edi malinaric

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  • Birthday 07/24/1939

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    Cape Town

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  1. Hi Andreas - the pic isn't too clear but I suspect we are looking at a round profile thread - commonly used on screw bottle tops, oil rigs and fire fighting equipment. It could be based on the BA system which has rounded crests and roots. (Some useless information - Mauser rifles were built using British Whitworth threads) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads If the bow returns to your hands - make an impression of the teeth and measure the diameter of the screw. It's teasing me - I might just offer to make you an eyelet. Making the impression: Use a piece of rib and some epoxy putty. Brush the screw clean using a brass brush, wipe it with butter, wipe off the butter with a paper towel, mix up some epoxy putty and wipe a bead on the edge of the rib material, hold the rib against the screw overnight. Post the impression to me. cheers edi
  2. Hi Craig - I have a weakness for Jagar Medium strings - nice mellow tone. Make sure you check that the nut grooves don't pinch the strings. I lost 2 A-strings while stringing them up. Discovered that a deep, narrow groove caused by decades of using Thomastic strings can act as a clamp on the slightly larger diameter Jagar A - the string failed between nut and peg. I abandoned ICS for Maestronet 10 years ago - for much the behaviour that you describe. A much happier mob on this side. cheers edi
  3. Hi Mendicus - my sympathies. I have 6 fiddles in that condition - waiting for a double bass repair to be completed and (hopefully) 40 days of rain. cheers edi
  4. Talking of fish - what's the story on that hook? Home black-smithing? cheers edi
  5. Who is going to answer? Not all at once! :-) D**n - you'd think that I would have learnt to check the unread posts before answering ;-( Hi finnfinnviolin - makes a neat swiiishing as you turn the edge. No bass tho. I really should sand and re-varnish the handle. cheers edi
  6. Hi All I use 4mm needle rollers saved from an u/s bearing in a piece of off-cut - maybe tone-wood maple. The exposed piece of roller is to begin the turnover by running it along the side of the scraper - then you turn the edge by running the edge of the scraper through the saw slit. You don't need much pressure to turn the edge. I started off making like Samson - huge pressure and half-a-dozen swipes. My shavings weren't! Dust was! Brian spotted me wasting energy and showed me that 2 passes with light pressure did the trick. Thanks Brian. Good stuff needle rollers - they are around Rc 63 - plenty hard enough to turn scraper edges. My party trick with cello end-pins is to chuck them in the lathe, face the end, drill a 1.5mm dia hole and insert a 1.5mm needle roller from a scrapped car propeller shaft universal joint. Retain it with some Loctite and then re-grind the end-pin to a point. Should be good for a century or so. cheers edi
  7. Hi Andreas - when I first read Jerry's post I nodded to myself and thought "Aah - another gentleman who understands the finer uses of a hammer!" As a second year engineering student I spent the Xmas break working in an engineering shop. A customer brought in a steel stud - about 1m long and 150mm in dia. and its bronze nut - that had stripped its thread. As an engineering student I was the lowest on the totem pole and was given the job of "take that stud into the shop" - boy was it heavy! The owner of the engineering shop was a canny old gentleman, he quoted on machining a new nut to fit the steel stud - "come collect it in three days". The customer said "OK" and left. Since it was made crystal clear on my first day in the shop that as a university type I knew nothing about anything (which might still be true today...) - I was told just to stand out of the way and observe "real-life" engineering in action. The nut was encouraged to go back onto the threaded portion of the thread. The assembly was positioned under the hydraulic press - then with three gentle presses per rev and over many revs the nut was forged back to a good fit onto the threads. The whole job from customer leaving to perfectly fitting nut took about 2 hours. Three days later it was explained to the customer that the reduction in the across-flats dimension was because "that material of the correct size was unavailable". The customer left - happy with his shining new nut - while I ruefully looked at my tender thin-skinned finger tips and a pile of spent emery cloth. Still - I did learn how to file parallel flat surfaces - six to be exact - and to make a beautiful cross hatch pattern with nothing but a flat stick, emery cloth and elbow grease. cheers edi
  8. Hi lpr5184 - the human eyeball has a focal length of ~ 20 - 25mm. Pictures taken with a lens of this focal length appear true-to-life. The further one strays either side of that the more distortion raises its ugly head. I take my pics at 35mm (zoom lens) as much as I can. cheers edi
  9. Thank you Berl - every time I read one of Addie's posts I wished that I was within easy travel distance of you guys. It would have been nice to pop in for a cuppa and chinwag. Some years ago my wife and I popped in on Michael Koeberling. He had posted pictures of the building of his workshop and my professional interest was stirred - mainly because I couldn't believe that anyone still used copper for rain water gutters and down-pipes. (over here it disappears the moment the plumber re-positions his ladder). Anyway I found his workshop and knocked on the door. After a slight delay I heard footprints and a guy unlocked the door and opened it. I asked if I was addressing Mr Michael Koeberling and he confirmed that I was. He was a little bemused because I gathered that English speaking visitors weren't all that common. Anyway I introduced my self as Edi Malinaric. His face lit up with one of the most welcoming smiles I have ever received - "Aaah - a fellow pegboxer!" Always conscious of the adage that "time is money" - I tried - at half-hourly intervals to leave. Finally after 3 hours we parted company. Both of us still talking as the car pulled away. Thank you Michael. Inside the last 18 months or so I have lost my elder brother and 3 other members the Malinaric family. Every one made it to the other side of 80. In a couple of months I hope to pass that tombstone (sorry - milestone) myself. Look after yourselves - cheers edi
  10. Mmmph - with your luck they'll just slip you into the bass, nail the top down and bury everything :-) Negative on the new top - your one is recoverable. Use hot hide glue rather than looking at the modern adhesives. A thinner glue join for one thing. Greater grabbing power as it sets - after maybe 15 seconds. Hold things in position for that length of time with your fingers and then you can add the sausages. Brian taught me to break a centre joint twice and re-gluing it before finally clamping it. Delay the sharp slap to break the joint by a couple of extra seconds and you then have to really give it a whack to separate the joint. Impressive how rapidly the joint strength increases. On the arching - which side of the plate has subsided? Sneaking thought is that the first step would be to recover the arching - then do the laminations and splinters. cheers edi
  11. Hi viola-licence-revoked I wish you hadn't posted that picture. I have had a Made in Czechoslovakia bass near the bench for 4 years now - a friend begged me to work a miracle. I took one look and told him it was firewood. He begged some more.... The belly was held on with panel pins, most joints were unglued, the plywood belly had long strips of the inner laminate hanging in loose strips, some bits were just fluttering around loose inside the belly. The neck was barely hanging on in the body. My only hope is to carve a new belly and re-glue every joint - I repeat every joint! Ah well - all experience is good. Maybe I'll visit the local timber yard and see if they have a suitable spruce plank. Oh - on your bass, start by removing one splinter of laminate from the body at a time. Do this by making a pad by folding a paper towel 2 or 3 times, wet the pad and press it over the splinter, wait 20 minutes and try lift the splinter away with the edge of a knife. If it doesn't lift off, replace the paper pad and wait a little longer. Let the splinter dry before gluing it back onto the belly. Start at one end, then do the one in the middle. Limit yourself to doing only two an evening. The next two splinters will be those adjacent to the previous two. Doing it this way means that you minimise disturbing a "just glued" joint while working on the second one. On re-gluing the loose strips I have never done that before so my advice would be as good as yours. Maybe make a long plastic sausage filled with fine sand to act as a glueing weight. Paint in hot hide glue, wipe the strip down into place using a scraper and place the "sausage" over over the loose strip. After an hour (when the glue has cooled off) I might remove the bag to clean away any excess glue - using hot water and a scraper. Then replace the bag and leave overnight. Good Luck edi Hi VdA - I have built cold laminated boats and repaired sailplanes both wooden and fibreglas :-) cheers edi
  12. Hi Trenchworker I'd be very surprised if the base of the nut is less than 8mm - knock off the nut and measure its base - surprise me. The only hard thing about inserting a dowel is the first time. No need to remove the fingerboard. For a pegbox repair it's not necessary to drill at a slant although I do so for a broken heel. cheers edi
  13. Hi Jermen - have a look at the neck end of the belly. Are there any signs of cracking either side of the neck? Without having the violin in my hands, my gut feel is that the violin suffered a "hot flush" and we are looking at shrinkage cracks. Those "wormholes" look like an attempt at antiquing. Common mistake - using one "hammer" and tapping all over the surface leaving identical marks everywhere. You'll find a few more down next to the saddle. As to estimated costs - Jermen, it's not fair to our members to request prices for repairs "sight unseen". When I was a very young engineer My mentor hammered it into me "Edi, never give an off-the-cuff estimate. No matter how much you qualify your answer, it will be the only figure the client will ever remember. He will lash you with an unending series of "BUT YOU SAIDs..." - despite the scope of the works having doubled and subjected to unending delays due to unforeseen weather conditions." I have steadfastly followed his advice for over 50 years. In the case of your instrument, it's a straightforward job. Take it to your nearest luthier and ask him for a quote to remove the top, repair and stud the cracks and reassemble. cheers edi
  14. Hi All The more I think about it, the more I think that one should first glue on the belly, followed by the neck and finally do the back. cheers edi
  15. Hi Jacob - example understood and noted - thank you. cheers edi