edi malinaric

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About edi malinaric

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  • Birthday 07/24/1939

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    Cape Town

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  1. Caption this...

    The figure at the peg-box appears to be wearing ear-muffs - nice touch.

    Hi David - thank goodness - you had me worried. :-) cheers edi

    Hi David - having an Imperial Engineering Degree, I am hard-wired to think in "thousandths of an inch" Are you serious about roughing out to around "half a thou" ?? :-) cheers edi

    Hi HoGo - they work like a charm don''t they? The anvil is a 6mm x 1.0mm pitch stainless steel bolt. Makes setting the gap easy. Cheers edi
  5. How to make decent edges

    Hi With_Joerg I was taught to always read the question three times and make sure that I understood it before attempting to write an answer. You have a plate in your hands. The edge is square and exactly matched to your template. The purfling is in. 1.0 Take a file and file a 45 degree chamfer on the bottom edge. The flat of the chamfer to be about 1.2mm. Go slowly when filing the corner edges - try and keep the chamfer equal. - you must do the bottom chamfer before you glue the plate to the ribs. 2.0 Work the top edge to your final thicknesses. 3.0 Scribe a pencil line mid-way between the outer edge of the purfling and the edge. 3.1 Using an 8mm gouge you cut your the channel in one continuous sweep. Concentrate on keeping the deepest part of the cut centred on the purfling and the outer edge of the cut on the pencil line. 4.0 File a chamfer on the top edge of the plate. (see 1.0) 5.0 Now chamfer the edges of the chamfers (about 0.5 - 0.6mm flats) - (I use a fine emery board that my wife uses for her finger nails). Take care not to scratch the ribs - or file away the sharp edge left by the gouge. Your edge is now almost rounded - made up of 7 flats - all less than a mm. 6.0 It now takes very, very little work to round off the edges of the edges of the chamfers into a smooth bullnose. I double over a small piece of 360 grit waterpaper and use a light touch.. 7.0 Use a scraper to blend the inner edge of the gouged channel to the arching. I suggest that you practise this on a piece of scrap off-cut-of-plate. Prepare the edge, carve some arching, draw in some purfling,, add the pencil line etc Sit back and admire. cheers edi

    Hi All 1.0 On depth gauges I knocked up an adjustable height jig using whatever was sitting in my scrap box. A piece of 65mm dia. aluminium off-cut, a fragment of 50mm dia.nylon rod and a M16 x 2mm pitch stainless steel bolt. There was this crashed milk tanker that had failed to negotiate a bend in a mountain pass and had gone down the mountainside. The driver was killed. Morbid curiosity made me drive the 90km to the crash site and climb down an have a look at the wreckage. The stink of fermenting milk and the squadrons of flies drove me back up to the road - carrying a souvenir in the shape of a sheared off M16 bolt. That was in ~ 1959. It sat quietly waiting to be put to use for exactly 50 years - and three house moves! The divisions are at 0.1mm - quite easy to work to within 0.01mm. The nylon is a tight fit on the aluminium so that you can adjust for zero. The aluminium was stepped to fit in that hole in Brian's drill press table. In use the bolt is screwed almost all the way into the alumiium. If you want to see it - go visit Brian in Ojai California. 2.0 On plates being pulled up during drilling! OK - so now you have a depth gauge and you confidently drill all the witness holes to depth. and Lancelot away... - a most manly pursuit. However it's hell on old wrists and is too noisy for failing hearing. So one reverts to quiet, relaxing and traditional chisels. As you approach full depth you discover that a witness hole is too deep! - and remember that the plate once lifted with the quill of the drill and you had to pull it downward off the drill. - and now have to find the off-cut from the plate. Then instant-glue a pull-shank of a pop-rivet onto the exact place between the matching lines and turned the plug down to 2mm dia. using a Dremel cutting disc and a steady hand. (Good practice is to always make two plugs - the second one one will be the better fit.) Glue the plug home with hide glue. Then if fortune favours you... the repair is as invisible as makes no difference. 3.0 Forstner bits - quick. Maybe too risky. cheers edi
  7. Fiddles shmiddles! Look what we made today!

    Tesla owners be warned!
  8. Inherited two violins but cannot find makers or identify

    - Cello bow that hasn't seen much use. cheers edi
  9. Honed Bliss

    Hi Violguy - v-g paste is far too coarse. You can buy a small bar of green chrome oxide "soap" from any metal finishing place. A small bar lasts about ~ 20 years. I generally "lose": it before it is used up. Here is a handy reference on metal polishing''... http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf cheers edi
  10. Fiddles shmiddles! Look what we made today!

    Aaah - a new workshop. Cool cheers edi
  11. Honed Bliss

    Hi Violiins88 - I made a "setting" jig to ensure that the edge of the blade was held square to the top and bottom of the holding jig. That way when you flip the jig to put the micro-bevels on the back of the blade they are parallel to the main bevel. cheers edi
  12. Hi Stavanger - perfect - you have an excellent chance of teaching him something useful. Sneak in the clip of the Tacoma Bridge "dancing" - always "wows" the peasants. Best of luck - edi
  13. Honed Bliss

    Hi John.. I have a large collection of whetstones varying from about 80 grit to black Arkansas - also some diamond ones. They are basically all retired in favour of water paper on plate glass'. The huge advantage is that things start off flat and stays that way. Three-M make abrasive sheets down to 0.5 micron grit - they even have some diamond sheets. Here is my set-up - note how small a piece of w-p is needed. A couple of drops of water per use - mopped dry afterwards with 1 sheet of kitchen paper towel - minimal mess. Strongly urge you to make a jig so that you always work at a constant angle. I can retouch a plane blade inside of 90 seconds. (I've been practising) Takes me longer to re-set the blade in the plane than to do the sharpening. I suggest that also take some time to read this - a bit long but well worth the effort. http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/ cheers edi
  14. Potatochipitis

    Hi Ken_N - Only two options spring to mind. The first is to work quicker - carve and glue immediately. The second - work slower. Carve to within 2-3mm and put to one side.for a couple of months - repeat a couple or three times as you creep down to final thickness. Actuallly there is a third option. I've heard this one frequently when talking to the ancients - examine the wood carefully for about 30 years - and then for safety sake wait another 5. cheers edi
  15. Hi Stavanger - beware of 'open" assignments. More students drown themselves in data and run short of time than overachieve - not good. Since your adjudicator will be a Civil Engineer, may I suggest you investigate a cable stayed bridge column, its foundations, it's motions, resistance and behaviour when subjected to exciting forces of different frequencies. To make things really interesting you could introduce 4 cables of varying diameters and tensions. There you are, I've reduced the field down to one simple item. Should be fun and topical - you could even test a coupe of violas to destruction. A great benefit to the world. Might also have been invaluable if it had pre-dated the Tacoma Narrows Bridge failure Do post a copy for us to enjoy after the thesis has been evaluated. Have fun - edi