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violinewb

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  1. Not the same stuff. This is the Millant dark/light blend - a dark amber, not Jade. Box is the same, rosin's different,. and buying violin stuff from Amazon is suicide. Higher prices on everything and a non-zero chance of getting fakes. I got it from JS Fisher at a better price. Rue gets it It was very much an impulse "don't need but do want" purchase. I intend to keep this as backup to my main rosin, which is the same stuff in a different case. I like Millant. The blend doesn't care if it's hot or cold or humid or dry, works the same for me. Nice and grippy, never scratchy.
  2. Honestly, when I saw it I thought of my teacher, and of this place. I bought two - one for me, one for teach. Edit: Had I a regular luthier, I'd get them one too! Edit to the Edit: Apparently I got out of post-approval-jail, so to celebrate, here are proper MN-spec ID pix. The back is nice!
  3. This is Millant-Deroux rosin, their blend of dark/light. Same as "Sartory" or "Peccatte" rosin. (I use the Sartory, love the octagonal box with magnet closures) I stumbled on the same rosin but in a "violin" shape. Only it's not a violin.... its a form! An inside form. And the only reason I know that is because of Pegbox! OK, the bit that actually holds the rosin is the form. The rest of the container is the violin.
  4. Didn't pay a lot for it, certainly nowhere MSRP. It's used. I was taken aback how loud it is under the ear, and then the recital confirmed it. It's got lungs. I appreciate good craftsmanship. I don't know much about this, but it did strike me as "no slop" in the cuts, etc. I'm learning, and it's all from this place! And you're welcome, I'm still trawling through pegbox, on pg 81 of the 112 page Stradivari thread I find this place a unique fount of knowledge, which brings me to.. I had to look that up. DDG threw me right back into the pegbox It wasn't accidental on my part. I did some homework. Yamaha doesn't seem to half-bake things. I have a 1968 classical guitar from them (student model, G60-A) and it's the same. Clean, not perfect, but very clean and well-made. Yamaha seems to be at least very competent or outright punch above their weight in whatever they do, it seems. I figured, hunt down a used mid-range student violin from Yamaha and get 10x the violin that the same money would get me new. This was blindly trusting a maker. I could go on about how I'd like to get a V25 or 20.. I don't have the budget for that YVN500. I haven't even seen one come up in the half year I've known about it. I look from time to time. The humor in this place is as sharp as the tools you use to make these
  5. For no reason other than pure curiosity, I took a cheap endoscope I have and took some shots of the guts of my 2018 Yamaha v7 student fiddle. Doesn't look half bad in there, but what do I know, I'm a newb to the violin, both playing and in the study of its making. I tried to get the corners, ribs, etc. I woulda done this through the endpin hole, but I don't feel like learning how to set a post right now The cam went in through the f-holes. Anything grab anyone's eyes? I know this is a factory Chinese instrument. I"m just curious as to any insights the luthiers here have. It's not the cheapest they made, it's like 2nd or 3rd rung from the floor. I like how it sounds, and how it looks. At a recital it had enough projection to reach the choir loft (where the camera was) from the altar in a medium-sized church. I was actually a bit shocked when I heard the tape, I wasn't expecting to get anything other than shrill mewlings, but I think she did allright. It keeps getting better, because I keep at it at least an hour a day, maybe two a day. Sometimes three... even improving my bow hold did much more to the tone than I anticipated.
  6. Oh man there's two of us! I may change my name. Didn't realize there was already a username that close to the one I came up with. And on the price of the Juzek in question: It may have cost as much as a Ford when both were new, but how much would that same Ford be today if all that's left is rusty framerails, a rust-perforated body and the engine in pieces in a box, the seats all ripped out, with wildlife living in it? That's the car version of the violin I asked about. It's a wreck through and through. A ford in those conditions would be worth scrap, really. Anyone on bring-a-trailer asking for "creampuff" pricing on a wreck would be dreaming. And there would be a person to buy it too, but it wouldn't be me.
  7. This is exactly why I"m here. I'm not finding this kind of insight anywhere else in the 'net I'm just blown away by the gall of the seller. He's asking for more than that fiddle's worth had it been in good original condition. "Hope springs eternal" indeed. Besides the Bohemian violins, I"m also considering Mittenwald stuff from before WW1. I"m slowly learning about all this by lurking here. I"m not jumping into the old violin world blind. Thanks all who's replied, I'm still limited to 2 posts a day, so that's why so slow between replies. And I did kinda look on this one as a restorer would, I'm a mechanically-inclined person, love working with machines and such -- wood's a different story, I have little experience there. But I would love to learn. I see a broken anything, and a part of me really wants to bring it back to life.
  8. If ebay links aren't permitted, please feel free to remove.. I may be a newb, but i'm already on the lookout for my first "old" violin, preferably before WWII.. even before WWI if I can swing it. In my price bracket that means no-names and "the-usuals." This seller in Ebay seems to think very highly of this piece of firewood. 2800 for a broken Master Art? Just for my own edification and budget-setting for the future: THese, in good shape (Master Art with the color labels) go for 2500-ish, right? This, to me, screams "run away." The luthier bill alone is probably 5 grand or more to get this playing again! Top's cracked all over, necks off.. and I stopped looking and almost died laughing.
  9. Ft. Lauderdale area. I'm willing to drive a bit for a good luthier (or teacher).
  10. All, thank you for your replies. Since I'm still a newb in the forum I had to wait for some kind of timeout to expire to reply. I agree with y'all saying the violin's fine. I'm also very disappointed in the luthier's who recommended this. It isn't a one-man shop, it's a big one. And I really have nowhere else to go, at least not that I've found yet. I "get it" -- it's like a mechanic trying to drum up business by nickel-and-diming your car's every little quirk and foible, to make a buck. I find it reprehensible in cars, too. Now I have to start searching for a luthier. The closest one is prob. 1.5 hours, maybe more, and is a one-man shop. This shop I went to has their clientele by the nuts, and they know it. This hint of dishonesty is enough to really sour me on them quite badly. I don't even want to buy strings from them anymore.
  11. Yep, foot "height" is what I meant. Thanks for the input, it goes along what i'm feeling from how the violin sounds. Teacher agrees. Violin was made 2018. I'm hoping it's well-past settling-in.
  12. Howdy! As my handle indicates, i'm a violin newb - both at playing and working on them. Last year decided to indulge a life-long want to play the violin, at age 52. Already a mediocre intermediate piano. So, on to the questions - because of illogical reasons, I have a thing for Yamaha string instruments. I have a V5 violin (my first,) a V7 (my second) and a "Cecilio" for a 3rd - the Cecilo is to learn how to cut bridges on, etc. The other two are for playing. My main one is the V7. This V7 had a mis-shapen bridge, the E was 1 mm too high. (that's what I get for buying online). The luthier I took it to to have a proper bridge fitted adivsed "This projection is low, needs to have the neck reset." Now, that's a BIG job right? To me and my teacher it sounds fine, not wimpy or "muted" or anything. If anything she's a bit of a screamer, when you nail the resonant notes just right. Quite full sound on the low strings too. I like it. But this got me to thinking, so I started measuring.. When measuring, I came up with a projection from fingerboard to bridge of 26.5, which I understand to be on the low side. Now, this is a Florida violin, and lived in Washington State previously, so I'm assuming is a kinda "wet" violin to begin with. But when I measured the string breaks, they're all around 157*, which is what I understand to be desirable in modern instruments. Bridge height is 33mm from top of table to top of bridge, highest point somewhere between strings. The feet on the bridge are very thin, like 1.25mm thin - and so was the original that came with it. So -- what trumps what? Does neck projection trump bridge height? Does string break angle trump all? I really don't want to have this thing cut up and reset. I'd rather get something used in the $1500 range. I notice every Yamaha I look at has the thin bridge feet so I"m starting to think this is how Yamaha made them. I ask because in my misguided attraction to Yamaha I fully intend to hunt me down a few examples - a V25GA, a V30 if I can find one.. a V60, etc. I'd love a YVN200 and such but those are likely above my target range of $. I'd like to understand if this is how Yamaha sets them up, why they do so, and if I should just tell my luthier "This is how they're born, why do you want to change it?" That string break angle can't lie, right? That's the one that wins all arguments, is what my limited newly-found knowledge tells me. Is it possible Yamaha uses some funky setup not well-understood by "normal" luthiers? Am I overthinking this? I measured the string breaks by tracing them on paper, then extending the traces and measuring with protractor. I can show my work if you'd like. I"m here to learn, and i'm on inch 1 of a world-wide voyage, when it comes to working on violins.. let alone play them. Thanks for y'alls time. I've lurked a bit here before making this FP. I like what I read. This place actually helped avoid the more.. violin-shaped-objects out there for my 1st violin!
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