Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Arsalan

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Arsalan's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

  1. Thank you very much David ... I don’t know if you read my massage but your hand works and arts , was what made me starting making a violin ... I made the first one ( spent maybe 700 to 1000 hours on it or maybe more but it sounds good ... I watched most of your videos and like them ... my first violin is here ...
  2. Hello everyone In the past there has been a few useful sanding block specially used for c bout and corners , I have attached a pic from one of them ( David sora use ) ... it’s more than three months I keep looking for them but can’t find them ... I would rather buy them, as it’s very time consuming to make them and still won’t be as accurate as CNC ... I appreciate if someone can tell me where I can get them from ... thank you
  3. Hello there may I know what brush are you recommending ? As the link is not working anymore
  4. Thank you for your reply , I am a beginner and I don’t really have enough experience and knowledge to be able to find out which one of all these info and criteria’s are correct or not , but I think you may be right at least to some extent ... thank you to open other side of all these ideas which mostly are not really proven scientifically....
  5. I doubt it , by tapping the wood we only check the bell possiblity ... I think it also check the vibrational properties too ? What do you think ? the wood that vibrate better , maybe make a different tap tone ? To a regular piece of wood ?
  6. Hi there I’m a mechanical engineer too and I am getting very interested in violin making .. may I ask which area are you referring to? As not to be too thin ? center ? And edges ? Or bouts ?
  7. Thank you very much for your information... would you plesss tell me what do you mean by twisted surface... I can’t get it ... thanks again
  8. Ok thank you very much for your reply, I also notice , it seems the fluting can increase the quality of sound . And also seems it’s not a bad idea of have the arching start right after the fluting closer to edge , by this I mean , consider two plate with same arch height at the Center line of the plate ... if you fill up the plate with for example water ... the plate that contain more water , seems to create better sound quality... I hope I could explain it well ... the plate that can contain more water ( with the same height at the Center line ) seems to vibrate better ... I use Stradivarius moles from graniluthai... with a little modification... I would appreciate if you could also tell me where do you recommend to get the woods from .... thanks again
  9. Hi Hogo thank you for your reply, I got your point and I think yes it’s better to send time , building and shaving and carving so I learn more and gain skills ... although I wanna tell you , as I have been making parts , machining and stiff like that .. a lot Whoever saw my first violin could not believe it’s the first one someone make ,,, and honestly a few master has told me it sounds great , but I have spent significant amount of time on it ... did my best .. and also I indeed learn like making a few violin. By this first one as I went very slow and tried everything on sample woods several times .. so I learned some , but on the other hand , I realized there is a huge range of skills and I think every violin I make I will learn new stuff .. maybe for the first 10 or 20 violins ... I hope I will have time to do so ... anyway I have a question too , I appreciate if you can tell me , what would be your criteria for a piece of wood ? Top or back ? It would really be appreciated if you can teach me some good points on this ... thanks again for your recommendation and help
  10. Hi Don thank you very much for your reply , is that plot , the plot for my recording , really appreciate your time it that’s the plot for my file ... and I have a question from you too ... when you say it also depends on what I do with it ,,, do you mean doing an precise and high quality job on it , or you mean ,, for different woods the design of the violin changes for you , I mean for a different piece of wood , you might be having different arching , thickness , fluting ? I have started to make violin two years ago ... and I love it ... I’m a mechanical engineer , but since I have good hands on skills , I decided to make a violin two years ago , although it was my first violin , but it turned out to be a good violin and it gave me much more motivation to move on and make more... also I read a lot and watch a lot of videos ... although on my first violin I ruin one top piece .... but eventually I made it over a year ... now I am going to make the second one ... but I want to again read and learn more stuff ...
  11. Hi everyone Please listen to , Below a recording of two different piece of tonewood with same dimensions but one fine grain and one regular grain ... would anyone be able to tell which one is better quality by hearing the taptone ? Also if anyone can give some guidance on how to compare tap-tone and how it should be like ? thank you Westminster Ave 5.m4a
  12. You can also use mig welding nozzle tip cleaner , they have a size assortment too , cheap and works , just try to find an stiffer set .... a set is 4 5 $ ...
  13. Thank you very much for your reply , very helpful
  14. Hello everyone I think one the most important factor to make a high quality violin , is selecting the tonewood, making a violin to proper size and measurements isn’t that difficult after a few builds , also there is some points in the design and shape of the instrument that can increase the sound quality. anyway , I appreciate if any experienced luthiers explain how to select the woods, it seems , buying online isn’t a great way of getting the woods ! Anyway I appreciate your time in advance for answering my question!
×
×
  • Create New...