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RolandS

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  1. Dear MN experts, I finally improved my photographic skills. Not sure though if up to a meaningful level. Anyway, I was able to photograph my cello from the inside by means of a very simple endoscope and a little light bulb. You see a heavily repared instrument. For previous owners, and also for me (new base bar). Worth it because of its incredible playability. Do these pictures confirm or deny Jacob's suggestion of the corner blocks (sort of post-construction imitations)? Or are the pictures not decisive? (I guess I should have asked the base bar maker, as he had the front blade removed.) Together with the additional pictures, would anyone have more information? Best regards, UpperBlock-TrebleSide_TopBlade: UpperBlock-TrebleSide-BackBlade: UpperBlock-BaseSide-TopBlade: UpperBlock-BaseSide-BackBlade: LowerBlock-BaseSide-BackBlade: LowerBlock-TrebleSide-FrontBlade:
  2. From an engineer's viewpoint: Absolutely. The conical shape can result into very large forces that try to split the block. Much larger than the tail gut can ever cause. I seriously doubt whether a tail gut force could ever be large enough for splitting that block.
  3. For those who agree, can the same result be obtained by changing rib height rather than arching? (asked to investigate whether the parameter is air volume or a vibration pattern of the blades)
  4. Thanks Jacob! As it has all the internal blocks and linings, I presume that the box is not BOB. Is this a relevant observation for a cello, or relevant for violins only? Would photos of the body internals offer details of any interest?
  5. Dear Maestros, I am soliciting your views of my orphan cello. It does not know it's family, let alone its father or mother. It does not bear a name. I adopted it some 35 years ago, and it was appraised as dating from appr. 1850. This cello has a long history of wear and tear, and of repair: Soundpost tear Base bar tear (replaced 10 years ago) Front blade cracks Scratches from transportation and clashes The lot. And in so far as I can judge, all maintenance done with good craftmanship. That must have been worth it, since it is a great player's instrument. (and it is not for sale for the next 20 years!) This cello is big: LOB 775 mm LBW 432 mm UBW 348 mm RH 120 mm String length (Nut-Bridge) 708 mm Doable for tall handed people (like me). What are your views? Thanks for your effort!
  6. Hello Renegade, Consider what it means to copy an old violin of the baroque period: To follow the top-view contour of the box To follow the cross-section curvature and thickness of the blades To select same wood species, sawing method and growth rings Same for scroll and neck To imitate scroll graft yes or no (debatable) To use exact varnish receipe and procedure Etc ..... Or: Just one or a few of the above. For a maker or trader, the entire concept of 'copy' is very broad, in terms of the technicalities of copying and also in terms of the objective. (e.g. to study the results of applying various parameters, to apply trade method) My conjecture is that if a large production house labels one of their models a copy, it concerns the front-view contour only. Is this scam? Probably not. Or if it is just phantasy of the trader, then it is scam
  7. More than that, it seems mirrored.... Specially made, and of a weird size
  8. Ever seen such chin rest before? On that location? What might that mean?
  9. The "business", as in for example the Strads being auctioned and locked-up for not-playing but rather investment ... ? I bet that this is not your intention. But indeed rather something like mass production (Dave Slight, FiddleDoug). This goes with a lower quality due to less attention for craftmanship. If this is what you actually mean with "trade instrument", communication would gain by avoiding that expression. "Trade instrument" - if so intended - has a negative connotation, by sort of implying that the buyers are the victims of their stupidity, whereas in reality they buy something that suits their purse and skills. Beware, if you continue to use "trade instrument" in a pejorative manner, I shall call every Stradivarius or Del Gesu that is not played but only sold a mere "trade instrument" Greetz!
  10. Dear Maestro's, Not being a luthier, but very interested in your trade and craftsmanship, I am reading the pegbox with great interest. Sometime later I plan to ask your advice on the ID of my wonderful cello. Here is my question: What is a trade instrument? I have read this terminology ever so often on MN. If I propose the following ranks, where would a trade instrument be placed? : Instrument for novice For advanced amateur For professional student For performing artist The expression "trade instrument" puzzles me, since hopefully all instruments are at least traded once in their lifetime. If traded, a seller wants to get rid of it, and a buyer wants to procure it. How could "trade" possibly denote a quality? Or would this be your meaning: if traded more often than once, it means that it buyers discover relatively quickly that it is no good, and want to get rid of it ASAP?
  11. They are, if you copy/paste removing the hypertext code.
  12. Ethanol is a solvent for rosin and fats. (especially near the frog, bow hair collects a lot of finger grease). The point was made here that the dissolved matter would travel from the hair's surface to the hair's interior pores and crannies. Such transfer is minimised when the concentration of dissolved matter is lowest. Therefore, if the quantity of alcohol used is largest. And even lower if more alcohol is used to flush a first washing. The transfer can be reduced to a negligible level. The advice to use only few alcohol contradicts with this logic. Whether it is desirable or not to saturate the hair's internals with rosin and fats is another question. Perhaps having rosin internally works just great to stabilise freshly applied rosin? Perhaps finger grease on the inside keeps the hair flexible? Coming back to the question of the OP, a superficial clean with ethanol can remove sufficient of one type of rosin before testing the next type. After the test has been completed, one might consider to do an intense clean with ample ethanol to remove undesired types of rosin. The hair is not damaged by the ethanol, and it will evaporate entirely. Mind the bow's surface preservation, as ethanol likes to digest that as well! PS: Water and soap dissolve fats, and tend to transfer the dissolved matter to the hair pores too, just like ethanol does. Drying from water takes much more time.
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