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Nikos Matsablokos

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  1. I do that too, bringing the edge back a little bit making it thicker. I learned that from experience unfortunately after burning the steel on some fairly expensive chisel I own, despite owning a low speed grinder and having dipped the edge in water quite a few times. These things do burn steel very fast. Which is why I was considering buying a CBN wheel which being metal, is a great heat sink and requires minimal cooling in water, if any. The sharpie marker is a great idea, I will definitely use that tip. Thanks a lot!
  2. That video is a life saver (or scroll saver I suppose ) . Thank you for posting this it helped me a lot!
  3. I am using Karlsson scroll gouges. They are considered to be some of the best for the task. And they where. However my sharpening method has made the edge profile completely straight (bevel angle is still pretty low as you suggest about 20 degrees or so) and I used to rotate the middle point of the edge around the turns to create a small cut around the perimeter of the bottom of the turns, which when I was scooping the volute would leave a very clean surface. I can't do that anymore with the flat profile. Apologies for my English, I hope that what I am writing makes sense.
  4. The thing is I've used relatively straight edged gouges for the scroll. And when I cut the vertical walls of the turns, the corners tend to dig into the wood before the middle of the edge does. Leaving a rough and rugged surface when scooping the volute. A fingernail profile not as extreme as the lathe gouges but still relatively curved would help in that case. I don't have an example to present to you, aside from @Davide Sora's videos where most of his gouges, from what I can see at least, have a slight fingernail profile and not a straight one such as mine.
  5. Thank you for the reply. I am aware that not all gouges should have fingernail profile. The ones that I want to reshape into fingernail are the scroll gouges. However I am not sure I understand what you mean by "the wheel should be square to the edge at that point which requires a fanning track for the handle, not parallel as the tool is rotated." Partly because English is not being my native language and lack of imagination I suppose
  6. I have a question which might be a bit obvious to most of you, to me however not so much. I know that the optimal shape for gouges in our line of work has to have a fingernail profile. Meaning the middle of the edge protrudes more than the corners. My question is how do you achieve such a shape (most gouges come with a straight edge) and also how do you sharpen it. Here's the method I use to sharpen my gouges (1:00 minute in the video). I am aware of special jigs the produce this fingernail profile but they are for woodturners since it is a very extreme kind of fingernail profile. Please if you are kind enough, do share the method that you use to sharpen your gouges, since I am convinced that the method shown in the video and the one I use are not suited for violin making gouges. Thanks a lot! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-Dy7R8xQBM
  7. I really like flexcut mini detail knife. Very thin blade at the tip, quite flexible so it won't break especially then you cut the bee sting part of the purfling (which is usually where the blade tip can break). Also very ergonomical handle which allows you to grip it vertically very comfortably. I've also had great success using a no 15 surgical scalpel blade for most of the purfling and a no 12 for the beesting part where I use it like a hook to create the very narrow yet deep channel for it. Side note, the flexcut mini pelican knife is probably the best knife for cutting the f holes, hands down. So if you are looking to buy their knifes i'd suggest buying the mini kit where it has the mini detail knife I mentioned, the pelican knife and small chip carving knife which is useful for chamfers. Plus it comes with a strop so...
  8. No problem Its a great machine that can be very useful, even around a luthiers workshop. I use it to print templates, tools (clamps, custom sanding blocks and many other things that can be useful in our craft). I wish more violin scans where made available to 3d print since they are a great alternative to plaster casts and unlike the plaster casts, which require the actual violin every time you want to make them, 3d printed versions only require the violin to be scanned once and then you can print the scanned instrument as many times as you like. Hopefully some day more scans will be made available.
  9. I am afraid I don't really have the time to do so, since such long prints require attendance and often might fail. Not to mention that you can't 3d print the whole thing at once unless if its a neck. You'd have to print it, in sever parts and then glue them together. May I suggest to search for places that offer 3d printing services near you. There are a lot of them anywhere in the world, and they'll have a much better printer than mine and will probably produce a better result than I ever will.
  10. In theory if the file is accurate the deviation that you might expect from a properly set printer is about half the line width and half the layer height so i'd say about 0.1-0.2 mm deviation from the real model. That's the uncertainty due to how the printed lines get stacked on top of each other to form whatever you are printing. Also some very minor rounding of very sharp corners might take place. Other than that its pretty accurate and I always use my 3d printer to make templates. Using pictures either scanned from the Strad Posters or from Tarisio (After I scale them of course)
  11. If you could upload it here via a dropbox link, it would be extremely helpful for me as well, since I have a 3d printer and use it a lot in my work when possible. Thanks in advance
  12. Sure is, you'll just need a lot of them as with normal clothes pins. And you'll have to remove the support for each one. Doesn't take a lot of time to do that though but if you have, say 60, it will.
  13. So here are the .stl files for the clothespin version of the clamp with the moving jaw, to clamp parallel and with even pressure. Printing it will require supports. I'd recommend support sensity about 10% because removing them from the recess in the middle of the clothespin body is kind of a pain. Again, any suggestions for improvements are kindly welcome and if anyone prints them please do upload a photo of the print. I'd be really interested to see how it turns out on someone else's printer. Here are the two files: Clothespin Body.stl Clothespin Jaw.stl
  14. Well, it can be made in almost an hour it took about 55 minutes I believe. However this depends the printer's settings. I use 50mm/s speed except for the first layer. Where I used 15 mm/s
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