Rico Suave

FS; Dial Caliper for Violin/Viola Plate graduation, etc. - $125.00 US + $18.00 USPS - OBO - Check or Money Order ** U.S.A. SALE ONLY ** Dial is graduated to .2mm, but is easily read to .1mm or even less. Range is scribed as 4cm. but will read out to 5.5cm, and could easily be modified to 6cm (or more). Housed in a wood box in good condition. I always remove 1 of the 2 return springs in use.

Sorry, I see my post wasn't clear enough - I will use the melamine foam pad only, sans any other abrasive powders. !Munches Grasses! for the link on the brush.

Using Evan Smith's methodology of thinking outside the (Violin) box - I think I will experiment using Melamine Foam Sponges ("Magic Erasers") for finish polishing bewteen coats.

Na ja, but It's a lot closer than Australia and I surmised there is somewhat of a Geigenbau Fraternity in German Speaking Lands. My Apologies if I put you in a bad spot.

Vielleicht kann Jacob Saunders einen Geigenbauer empfehlen. https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/profile/24603-jacobsaunders/ http://www.geigenbau-saunders.at

Oh, yeah - grain compression. The technique is called "Boning". I've used smoothed (Deer) Antler and Rib or Femur Bones for that chore. Antler Tips allow getting into carved and corner areas easier, with minimal risk of gouging.

For wide panels, such as furniture, I brush it on, For smaller projects I typically use a (shoe dye) swab Ebonized Furniture I made over 30 years ago is still in use and still as dark as the day I finished them. I don't have any vinegaroon dyed curly maple Longrifles on hand that I made, but no client has come back to complain about the finish/color wearing off. https://i.ibb.co/DVDC3Kh/Flintlock-20.jpg

'Ebonize' with Vinegar and Iron, then perhaps Feibings to darken more if necessary. Black Tea wash the wood beforehand will add tannin and promote darkening https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+ebonize+wood&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS757US757&oq=how+to+ebon&aqs=chrome.0.0i512j69i57j0i512l8.7431j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 I refresh (re-sharpen) my dull Files by soaking in vinegar and save the solution (Vinegaroon) for use as a dye for wood and leather https://www.google.com/search?q=sharpening+files+with+vinegar&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS757US757&oq=sharpening+files+wi&aqs=chrome.0.0i512l2j69i57j0i512j0i22i30l2j0i390i650l3.7727j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?q=vinegaroon+dye&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS757US757&oq=vinegaroon+dye&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i512j0i390i650l5.12357j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Passing along info from the SIMSCal Website Violin Maker's Workshop Sale Woodworking Machinery, Hand Tools, Workbench, and More We received an email this week from Renée Ward: "My father’s hobby was making violins in San Diego, but he is 93 and has just moved to an assisted living facility. He has quite a bit of woodworking & violin-making equipment that I am trying to relocate. "I would like to find someone who would come in and take the whole lot for a reasonable price. I am planning to have an estate sale, and they would probably sell there, but my primary motivation is that these items end up with someone who will use them to make stringed instruments. If interested, please make an offer. https://mailchi.mp/717d1b801127/simscal-newsletter-13552452?e=0574ab9295

From Eze-Lap website LSF Super Fine Grit (1200) - Blue Handle LF Fine Grit (600) - Red Handle LM Medium Grit (400) - Purple Handle LC Coarse Grit (250) - Black Handle LXC Extra Coarse Grit (150) - Green Handle I neglected to mention that I use (Lanskey) Ceramic or Sapphire Hones for the final licks. Like HoGo intimated, I don't find much difference using Sellers method, since a microbevel is in play.

I often employ Pauls Sellers' Technique, or do it freehand. I also make use of a Smith's Sharpening Guide (similar to Lansky's) https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-Sharpeners-Standard-Precision-Sharpening/dp/B00T4XTH62 If I'm sharpening a wide bevel 'Scandi Grind' or Kiridashi, I'll just rub an Eze-lap Diamond Hone lengthwise along the flat bevel (endeavoring to avoid rounding over the bevel) and a flat stone for the ura-side (flat back) of a single bevel Kiridashi. https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK4-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVTDZC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=eze-lap+hone&qid=1687996108&sr=8-2

Adding to the MN repository of KOOK (Keeper Of Odd Knowledge) Trivia: Yariganna; 槍 鉋 Yari - Spear, Ganna (Kanna) - Plane I've never come across one that small, but I don't indulge in Bonsai https://www.google.com/search?q=槍+鉋&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjyw86lmtr_AhUzmGoFHaQVAH8Q0pQJegQIDRAB&biw=1440&bih=767&dpr=1

It's a Q of Modern vs Traditional tastes and expectations. From my experience as a Longriflesmith using Curly Maple for Gunstocks; Finishing with traditional hand tools only - Saws, Planes, Chisels, Gouges, Files, Scrapers, Shagreen and a Bone Burnisher - will mostly result in a 'ripply' surface in some places and is practically unavoidable. Some customers understand, appreciate and expect such. Other customers want a modern smooth finish, which requires the use of backed sanding blocks and sticks. In my own work, I rarely go beyond ~320 grit for these tasks and will scrape and burnish some areas afterwards.

Thanks for the info - I've read about putting CA in the 'fridge to preserve, but din't know it was only for unopened containers. How about thinning the thicking CA with Acetone? Will it degrade the strength?

The bottle of Loctite 401 I procured a year ago for the original head repair (still holding) and has been on my bench since and sees occasional use. Although, it is becoming progressively more viscous. I should have kept it in the refrigerator (or freezer?) to prolong the useful working life, I guess. In fact, I used it just last night to attach a new sliver of wood to Abalone for a Bow Slide - it holds securely. How well will Mercury Adhesives CA work for Pernambuco, I wonder? - It's available on Amazon, as well a Woodcraft Supply.