Crimson0087

So I have been using Hirsch gouges which are really good. The other day I bought a 13mm #6 from dictum and it's really bad! Just a heads up anyone shopping. The quality is good it's just that the grind angle is way too steal that it is very difficult to use.....anyone use these dictum brand gouges? I think I'm going do have to try and regrind it to a lower angle!

Fiddle maker those measurements are helpful thanks!

It is 4.2 mm thick all around the edge.

I haven't posted anything since my purfling incident but I finally have a top ready for the recurve and would love some feedback and advice or tips for carving the recurve. What sort of gouge is best for this task ect. Any help would be appreciated. Here's the progress so far.

Correct on the holes...but looks like I'm scrapping another. Davide was right fatal error...I think I need to try the Dremel again......also I realize my cuts were not perpendicular they were very angled....

What about a thin file and just slide it around in there? For future reference how wide should the channel be?

You mean like the purfling cutters? Like this?

Did not try on a test piece. I think the channel is too thin. I have a pic before I removed wood I'll add that.

So my first attempt I had a purfling channel that was too wide. This time out of fear I made it too thin. I don't think I have the skill to move the ibex purfling cutter around and make it wider while following the same path..I know I'll deviate one way or another. What would be the best way to widen the channel? Should I just get a narrow file and try to widen it? It's probably about 1mm wide and I can't get the purfling to fit down in it. I admit the walls are not perfect vertical it tapers to a narrower bottom. I can post pictures later if needed. Any suggestions? Also thanks again to all who have given me advice on this forum. I have enjoyed this challenging yet rewarding task.

Nick the ends are about 8.5 mm

So any pointers on making my purfling meet before it runs off the corner? If the outside edge of the purfling is 4mm from plate edge then the point runs off the corners. I can do 5mm and it doesn't run off but is that too far in? See pics

Got it... Thanks that helped....nice clean light free joint finally!

I know I have posted before about hand planing a perfect joint and I have gotten substantially better. In fact I thought I had it down until last night when starting to join a maple back. I am consistently getting (or at least I believe I am) a single long shaving the full length of the board but somehow I keep getting the ever so slightest dip or "hollow" in the center of the board. The ends of each board touch but the center is open. How can I perfect my technique? I was wondering could this be happening b/c the blade of the plane is too far out and my shavings are too large? Am I just pressing down too hard as I pass through the center? Any ideas? Should I plane off the ends and then try to take a full pass? I have watched videos on hand jointing and several have said to start with a hollow and then take a full pass. In fact they intentionally create a hollow before the full length shaving but for me it seems to keep making a hollow. Any advice is helpful. Ive gotten a few perfect joints on my last two attempts but now I seem to be back to doing somethign wrong.

Does anyone use flat bottom finger planes? I was wondering if they might be useful for helping get an even flat edge around the violin for purfling? What do y'all use to get the purfling edge flat?

How many times will you guys reheat hide glue?