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Crimson0087

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  1. So I'm at the stage of carving purfling chanel. Anyone ever use a Dremel with this tool? I think I'm too scared to put a spinning blade of death near something I've worked so hard on. Anyway my first attempt I used this tool pictured to mark the purfling and I ended up with a Chanel too large. I think the blades aren't spaced appropriately. Do y'all recommend I sand them down to bring the points closer together or should I raise one and mark one side of the Chanel at a time? Suggestions? Or should I take my chances with the stew Mac tool?
  2. I am still working on it. As of now its still about 18mm at the peak my goal is 16.5 but I wanted to see if anyone saw anything obvious that I should do before I proceed with the carving? Im sure its hard to tell on a video but I thought Id just see... 20221107_222129.mp4
  3. Anyone know of a software program that can draw this arch software of known radius?
  4. The file is for the program linked in my post. Gonna need a big piece of paper to draw that circle.
  5. Hello everyone. After all of your help with the jointing I am ready to start working on carving. I am not using a specific violin template or strad poster b/c who am I kidding i wouldnt be able to replicate it anyway :). I wanted to know if anyone has used the arching program on this site? https://jpschmidtviolins.com/cycloid.html and if you have could you weigh in on the arches I have made with it? Here was my method..if this makes sense. I hand drew a top arch. I drew a straight line 359mm long. I marked the center and put a mark at 15.5 high. On each end I marked a line that was 4.2mm above the bottom line since this was how thick I was planning on doing my plate. From each end I measured in 9mm and made a mark 3mm up from the bottom line this being the deepest part of the curve. I then bent a straight edge and drew a line from point to point making the arch. Then I attempted to get a "flatter" area toward the top by bending up the ruler on both sides. Once I was happy with this I measured the points on the line to input into the program. Any thoughts on this method? Top trial.arh
  6. OK...OK MAJOR BREAKTHROUGH!!!!! Today I went and bought leather and glued it to wood and polishing compound. I sharpened it again and polished it and it was sharp. I used my shooting board to get "started" on squaring the face but noticed it wasnt perfect. I then clamped it in the plane and....well...see for yourself!!! I DID IT!!! I CANT BELIEVE IT! But I actually have a good light free joint on my maple back. No light. Square! Im sure its not perfect but its pretty darn good. Its only been a week and I almost gave up but looking back at how I was trying to do it a week ago I feel stupid now. I was running at it hard and fast with no control! Thanks to everyone's input I couldn't have done it without all the advice! 20221023_153406.mp4 20221023_160557.mp4
  7. For what it's worth this is the newly sharpened blades on pine. I did manage to get this square with my shooting board but it's so hard to cut the maple with the shooting board....maybe if I put some dowels in it to have to push the maple up against? Anyways seems to be taking good shavings. My bench vise is in the shed so this was unclamped and at chest height so not optimal..
  8. Ok so I had sharpened my blades and had a little more luck tonight on the shooting board...it is really hard with the maple but I think I might get a square edge and then maybe just maybe I can joint it...I'll try again..can anyone send me a link on Amazon or something to what you think I should be using to sharpen?
  9. Not sure Marty but I imagine that since the violin less than 4mm thick that if the joint isnt good it wont hold up...
  10. With a sharp plane how much pressure is needed to get that first bite. I feel like I have to push hard and fast to get the cut started and that's why I lose control. This is how I've sharpened. 25 degrees.
  11. Ok I'm gonna try sharpening again. I've used power jointers none of that's new to me it's just hand tools that are new. Anyways I am going to take my board to a shop to see how the power jointer goes...I'll continue to practice hand jointing but I need to be able to move on also. Let y'all know how it all goes...
  12. I have already ruined one set. I did sharpen the blades and they are sharp. I could try clamping the ends so the boards don't move...I think if a power planer got me 99 percent there then I could do a single pass on a hand plane to get it finished...I know it seems like overkill but I've probably spent 10 plus hours trying to joint these two boards that's enough time that I could have worked overtime and bought a power jointer...I'm gonna take it to a shop Monday they have a power jointer just to see how well it does and if I can finish it at home...I will keep at it and try each time but this wood hasn't much width left and if I keep messing up it will be scrap
  13. Will something like this produce a good joint for a violin? I have tried EVERYTHING. I tried building the shooting board..That doesnt work for me. I tried inverting the plane. No luck. I cant joint them individually bc I cant keep it square. I cant do them together b/c they shift in the vice. I am so beat up over this that I stinking give up. Anyways I think im gonna buy this thing if you guys think it will produce a good enough joint b/c after a week of this and no luck I just dont see myself ever getting it without hands on instruction and even then. Anyways what do yall think of these?
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