Jump to content

JackSchmidling

Members
  • Posts

    68
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JackSchmidling

  • Birthday 05/22/1939

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://schmidling.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marengo, Illinois
  • Interests
    see web site

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

JackSchmidling's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

  1. Two points here to clear up. 1. The term planetary seems to be getting confused at least in my mind. My info is that one is called planetary and the other is not defined. There are lots of pics showing planetary gears inside of the knob, hence my comment about not wanting to remove the knob to add a round one. I have only seen one fuzzy drawing of the other type which has all gearing in the shaft itself and the drawing doesn't make much sense. I have Perfection brand for the record. 2. I do not understand why the instructions say to glue them once they are fitted properly. By design, they are self tightening because one side has RH threads and the other side has LH threads. Tension of the strings is in favor of tightening the threads and I see no reason why glue would be needed. I have not glued mine in and there is no problem. In general, I think they are a big improvement over balky pegs and fine tuners but they have a clunky feel and can and do slip when not paying attention to the push factor. They don't slip far but enough to be annoying. Jack
  2. Here is what I ended up with. Not a thing of beauty but quite serviceable. I ended up with a 3/4" diameter as there was occasional finger interference using the same diameter as the original. Jack
  3. I have the Perfection brand and they have sort of a push/pull engagement clutch for lack of a better word and they can slip, contrary to claims. I opted for them over Wittner because they are 4:1 instead of 8:1 and somewhere I saw 17:1. Not sure which is correct but I wanted the lower ratio. I think after hearing what people have said here, I wish I had bought the Wittner. However, the comment about pushing was really aimed at the use of round knobs on standard pegs where pushing is a big issue and it is much easier with a round knob. Jack
  4. I can't test that without removing one of my geared pegs but what I can tell you is that I have far more control of the downward force on the round knob than on a flat one. Pushing in while turning can involve 3 or more fingers on a spherical surface and produce all sorts of forces on it that you can't with a flat knob. Knee not required. My teacher is pushing me to learn how to tune in fifths and this was impossible with my standard pegs and fine tuners only confused things. There isn't enough range to really get a feeling of what is going on. The geared pegs help immensely but there is still the problem of the position of the flat pegs. As currently set up, only one of them is correctly oriented. The thought of diddling with the strings to get them all right makes me want to find a new hobby. I now have round knobs on the G and D string and love them. They look rather quaint but I am not going to Carnegie Hall anytime soon so I really don't care. Jack
  5. Not sure if your tongue is in your cheek but as usual, I did something while others said nay. I turned down a piece of Mahogany to the same diameter as the peg and then milled a 1/4" slot across the center at one end about 3/4" deep and voila! push it on to the peg and it works like a charm. There are some problems but most are a result of not wanting to remove my geared pegs until I see how well it works. The major problem is that it needs to be about 1/4" longer than the flat peg to hold it together. The other is that I can't mess with the flat pegs because they have gears in the head. I could epoxy a piece of something on each side and put the peg in the lathe and turn it nice and neatly but need to think about it some more. The pic is my first attempt on a normal peg. It's a nice press fit but the geared pegs are slightly thicker and it's hard to get a nice fit without removing it from the instrument. I suppose I could have Peghead make a custom set but it would probably cost more than my violin is worth. Jack
  6. > They travel back and forth through maybe 90° but probably less. When you think about it that way, a flattened head is much more ergonomic provided it is oriented correctly... Even accepting the correct orientation, it is not clear that it is more ergonomic. If true, it would only be true for a very limited range of that 90 degs. > Mechanical advantage is improved, and thus so is precision... Where does the advantage come from? I am thinking of a wing nut vs a round knurled knob of the same radius. Again, if there is an advantage, it is only in one position where as the torque of the round knob is the same in any position. >You can adjust the orientation by how much of the string you feed through the hole in the peg. Having to hack around with that every time a string is replaced seems like a serious tilt in favor of the round knob. If so much torque is required to turn the knob, this is just another point in favor of geared pegs. In which case, torque is not an issue and there is no argument in favor of the flat knob. Jack
  7. Other than "because that's the way it's been done for centuries", is there any practical reason the pegs have flat "knobs"? Most every thing else that goes round and round by finger force uses round knobs. A round, knurled knob seems so much more practical. What am I missing? Jack
  8. Unfortunately, the tailpiece was changed at the same time as the new bridge and he seems to have moved the soundpost from where it was when I brought it in. Changing 3 variables at the same time does not make good science. All I know for sure is that I have to wear ear protection or a mute when playing this thing now and I didn't have this problem years ago. One's high frequency hearing response does not usually increase with age but maybe something else has. Jack
  9. When I had the a bridge installed on my violin, the luthier took the liberty of replacing the ebony tailpiece that came with the instrument 50 years ago with a plastic one with built in tuners. He said the orig was to too long for a violin and was probably from a viola. In the process of installing a set of geared pegs, I did some more research and concluded that the guy was only half right. The ebony tailpiece is 112 mm from end to nut which seems nominal for a nominal violin. I had added fine tuners to all the strings. What I learned since is that adding fine tuners to this tailpiece shortens the after length by about 10mm. The new tailpiece has no nut but the active length seems to be about 103mm. I finally managed to get all the geared pegs installed and really like them after a bit of use. I no longer need any fine tuners. The question is: Would I gain anything by putting the original ebony tailpiece back in without the fine tuners? The difference would be ebony vs plastic, shorter after length, no mechanical junk hanging on. Jack
  10. Nice to know that I am not too old to learn something new. I made a simple peg box simulator, clamped it into a vice, screwed in the geared peg and wound up a piece of copper wire with a 4 lb weight on the end and ... VOILA! no more backlash. Well not much anyway. It's not quite the real world as the tension is constant and the weight is half would it should be but I guess it's good enough to make the point. The string hangs directly from the peg which eliminates the nut friction and probably points to that as the problem. I have already tried to work that over but I am not sure of the best way to do that and I suppose it could be something in the string but I have no spare G string to test. The other interesting thing I learned doing this is really off the wall. The holes I drilled for the peg were 19/64" for the thread and 1/4" for the end and no tapered reamer as I still have not received the one I ordered. I replaced the geared peg with the old straight peg and it worked like magic. It turns like a greased bearing and does not slip with just minimal inward pressure. Two ideas occur to me. One is that the wood I used is Silver Maple and probably softer than the traditional wood. Second, is maybe the tapered hole should be reconsidered after several hundreds of years cussing at sticky pegs. Jack
  11. Is there a connection between PegHeds and "these" presumably, Perfection? I can't find any connection. js
  12. I tried filing the nut and more graphite but no joy. Thinking about the tension business; it does not comply with my understanding of how gears work. I can hold these in my hand and look through the string hole and see that there is a significant angle through which I can turn the knob (backlash) when nothing but the knob moves. The majority of the commenters here love them but there are enough in agreement on the backlash to suggest that I live with it or send them back. My inclination is to live with the backlash as it is better that sticky pegs but if the Wittner has no backlash, I would opt for this. I bought these from Fiddler Man and they sell both so I am sure they would make the exchange. Last thoughts... Jack
  13. So maybe my backlash issue is for real? js
  14. This is a follow up to my posting before purchasing a geared peg set. So far, I am only happy with the geared pegs as a sort of compromise. I bought the Knilling Perfection set 3.8 mm version. I was able to install the G string in my peg box well enough to see how I liked it but the holes need to be reamed for a good fit. I ordered a reamer and am still waiting for it to install all the strings. What I can say so far is that they work "as advertised" but seem to have a serious problem. The backlash is something like a 1/4 turn of the knob when changing directions. This seems like a near show stopper for fine tuning. I think they are an improvement over poor fitting pegs and/or fine tuners at the tailpiece but they probably would not please one with a good setup and lots of experience tuning the traditional way. Backlash is a necessary evil that has plagued designers since gears were invented. It can never be zero but these are not even in the ball park. I don't know how the Vittner version performs in regard to backlash but the 17:1 gear ratio seems more tedious than the fine tuners. The Knilling is 4:1 by comparison. js
  15. I guess I need some help. When I post the link to the video it shows up for a second and then disappears. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8qv_0oZG70
×
×
  • Create New...