Jump to content
Maestronet Forums


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views

chiaroscuro_violins's Achievements

Senior Member

Senior Member (4/5)

  1. Was it common for the top to have the fancy binding while the back was left with plain purfling? Or is this violin made of parts from various instruments?
  2. If the bridge is indeed too curved, as we generally agree it is, it should make this problem easier to avoid. But yes, there's something wrong with the D.
  3. But a lot of Schonbach instruments genuinely sound good. In my experience, which I readily admit may be limited, the nicer ones that have figured wood and proper varnish usually sound alright, and once in a while they sound really great. You have to go on a case by case basis. I know professionals who own violins by well-respected makers (even one old Italian violin), yet choose to perform on Markies.
  4. ??? I have the poster in front of me right now. There is a full graduation map for both plates. What gives?
  5. Oh come on. This fiddle is clearly nothing special, but "beyond repair?" It needs a setup. You could get this going for almost nothing.
  6. That is too high. However, it is almost certainly the correct height for your violin. There is an ideal bridge height, but it can't take priority over getting the correct action. Also, it seems that "nitpicking" was worthwhile here, because had we assumed a decimal point, it would seem your bridge would be 30.4 mm high. Which is too low. If this is happening on a brand new bridge, I would expect the bridge blank is too soft (low quality). I don't know who told you this, but it isn't how violin setup works. If you're going to do this, please buy a fresh bridge blank. Get something like a Despiau single tree bridge. They're not that expensive. Do you mind me asking, what are your specific complaints about playing your violin? What problems do you notice other than your templates not fitting?
  7. The bridge definitely appears to have too much curve, but that doesn't necessarily mean the strings are sitting at different heights than they would be on a 42mm radius.
  8. Beware of confirmation bias. Not exactly. Unless you want your G and E to have the same height (which you don't), there will always be some unevenness. No it isn't. Typo perhaps? I have seen a lot of bridges with this shape out there. It's not how I would carve them. But it's fairly commonplace.
  9. Follow-up post. I would not say that mine has "lasted many years," but if I remember correctly, it was the cheaper option at ~$65. I have only made one attempt to sharpen it, and only took a couple passes on each blade with the stone. It makes sense why you shouldn't resharpen the reamers, but I doubt what I did caused any problems. I forgot to mention in my original post that I've also had some trouble with the reamer tearing out the varnish when I fit pegs in a brand new instrument. I've discovered some workarounds, such as drilling the holes (a little undersize) before varnishing, and fitting bushings to new instruments also before varnishing. These workarounds don't bother me much, but I'm curious if a spiral reamer might be a little gentler on the varnish. At this point I think I will get a new reamer. Is there any reason not to get a spiral one?
  10. https://www.thestradshop.com/store/thestrad/sleeping-beauty-montagnana-cello-1739-poster/ As usual, this should give you most of what you need.
  11. Greeting luthiers! I have been using a 1:30 peg reamer for the past 6 years. I originally bought the one with the straight blades, in hopes that it would be possible to sharpen it. This has, unfortunately, not been the case, and I've had to bush some holes that the reamer simply refused to do a good job on. I don't know if my reamer is just cruddy, or if this is a problem with straight reamers in general. I need solutions. I have seen spiral reamers for sale. I'm sure someone here has used them. Are they any better than the straight ones? Are they more suited for repairing instruments, or are they preferable for new builds as well? How well do they stay sharp? Conversely, is there any good way to sharpen a traditional straight reamer without mucking up the taper? I have had a go with some diamond stones, at the recommendation of my mentor, but that did not provide any improvement whatsoever to the performance of the tool.
  12. Those are clearly old helicores. There must have been some misinterpretation.
  13. Better to ask than to remain ignorant. I do believe sycamore has been used with success, but then again it's not that different from maple, is it?
  • Create New...