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Taylor Sincich

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  1. Haha! Thank you so much for your time and opinion Mr. Sora. That was exactly the type of feedback that I was looking for. I understand I am bypassing the cost, time and dedication it traditionally takes most to learn this craft and am essentially asking for trade secrets for free with nothing for you in return. For that I am truly thankful and and in your debt. I also haven’t heard of others using Westerlund’s method but for now I cross my fingers and hope it works out on the back. Luckily, It did not have significant end grain along the joint and the cutoffs seem to be strong so I feel comfortable with it. I understand your point that it’s not necessarily just that the pieces broke along the glue line but by how easily they broke apart that is also important. Because they did break so easily, and because of the clean break, I’ve decided I’ll saw it apart and re do the joint today. I’m still going to try a 1:3 mix because my tests showed it to be the best mix of strength and visibility for my glue but will use clamps this time. I’m not sure if I’ll have enough to make any cut offs from it but maybe I’ll get a sliver off the ends. Thanks again for everything and i will report back after!
  2. Thank you for your insight Dennis! A lot of good things to think about. For now, and since it is my first violin, I think I’m committed to the piece I have but will keep this all in mind for future projects if God willing I make it through this one!
  3. Thank you for your insight Mr. Sora and all of your videos and previous help. I understand your point. I had such a hard time planing the maple joint that once I had it perfect I didn’t want to let it dry over night and have to re plane it. I’ve also seen other posts on here that suggest NOT letting it dry more than overnight if sizing. I’ve also read that some people glue the joint and break it apart and re glue it all in one step. I went off this video by Peter Westerlund where he rubs the glue in first, wipes off excess and uses a hair dryer before gluing it again and clamping. To me it seemed the best way to make sure there was enough glue in the end grains to act like a sizing when I glued and clamped it. Either way, I believe the glue joint for my back plate is acceptable and have moved on to creating the purfling platform. Im aware my posts are probably too long but I outline all of the tests I did with my glue with different ratios, applications, clamping vs no clamps, etc. May I ask if you weigh the glue and water for your 1:4 ratio or is it by volume? My question continues to be whether the glue joint on the top spruce plate seems sufficient or if the clean break suggests a poor glue joint.
  4. Thanks everyone for your replies! I appreciate the feedback. I’m open to the possibility of bad glue but for now I assume it’s user error. Also because I have not had any issue with the glue for any other part of the build like the rib garland, the back joint seems strong and all the test pieces have been strong as well. I guess this photo represents my entire inquiry. Is the top glue joint bad/good/ok/not acceptable when compared to the lower? The top two pieces are the outline cut out that snapped relatively easy clean at the glue joint with 1:3 glue and a rub joint, no clamps, using the methods described above. The lower two pieces used the exact same glue (a week old at this point) and same rub joint and split away from the glue line. From what I seem to read, the clean split of the top two pieces suggests an inferior glue joint while the lower two suggest a strong glue joint. Or am I incorrect in assuming this? I know the boards are definitely glued together and very strong but does the clean break suggest when I thin out the plate it will pop apart as easily? (Not that anyone could definitively tell me without having been here) I understand there are 100 reasons the plate joint went bad, bad glue ratio, overheated, too thick, too thin, not a perfect joint, etc. and those are my faults, probably not the glue itself. To shed a little more light on my glue setup, I have a heating plate and thick pot that retains heat well. I made a chicken wire platform for inside the pot to hold the glue jars above the floor of the pot 1/2” and off the direct heat. One jar of water holds the thermometer to replicate the heat of the glue in the jars. For the center joints I’ve mixed the dry glue with cold water, let sit over night, heat the water up to 140 deg for an hour to make sure it’s holding the temperature steady, put the glue into the warm water for 15 minutes covered, stir with the brush, let sit covered until I’m ready to glue (15 min to an hour) As far as I know the thermometer never goes above 140. When I was ready to glue the top plates I uncovered the glue jar, stirred with the brush that’s been sitting in while water at the same temp (running off the brush in a steady stream like oil and breaking into drops just at the end of the stream, pull the jar out of water, poor a generous line down the joint, place the other board on top, rub out excess until I feel it bite, register ends and leave for a couple hours. And to be clear, I think most of the issues I was having with the back plate were with actually planing the joint straight in the maple and with issues in the clamping, both time wise and balancing the pressure of the grips to the wedges evenly. What made me feel better about the back was that I finally figured out those issues and had a seamless glue joint and cut offs that broke apart away from the glue line. Luckily, now that the spruce has the outline cut out it would be pretty simple to clamp together again unlike before. Thanks again everyone for your feedback and putting up with the same beginner questions!
  5. Thanks for your reply Dennis! What do you consider soft/low density spruce? (I have no clue so I am genuinely curious) I bought all the tonewood from Rauch Tonewood. I’m very happy with it and Thomas and Johanna were amazingly helpful. Ive seen this graph somewhere else on maestronet but I’m not sure if it refers to the maple or spruce wood
  6. Thanks Wood Butcher! I've read through that post, very informative. Shunyata, sorry, I AM worried about starving the joint, hence I usually lean toward using too much glue which I'm worried may be the issue. I always rub out all the excess and tape paper to the sides. So I should have said, I am not worried about starving the joint because I always have plenty of squeeze out. I am thinking I should re glue with clamps as well.
  7. Hello, My name is Taylor and I’m new to Maestronet. Though I’ve been reading through the pegbox religiously while I am currently building my first violin I have never posted before and just wanted to start by saying thanks to all of you in this community for being such a wonderful resource in so many ways. I hope to be able to add in positive ways in the future. My current problem is gluing the spruce center joint. I’m aware this should be a relatively simple and basic task compared to everything else but I think it comes down to I simply have no experience with Hot Hide Glue and am unsure what I’m looking for. (It also seems to be relatively hard to explain the nuances of HHG in words) After two weeks and a sore wrist figuring out how to plane the joints, gluing, cutting open and re gluing the back plate 5 times I am finally happy with it. (3 times after clamping I had a visible gap along the top, once where a blade could just fit through) After all the time I spent dialing how to sharpen, set and use my plane with the maple I was surprised to get a perfect, light proof, clean, single shaving joint in the spruce in under 10 minutes via shooting board. I understand a lot of people suggest a micro gap joint or sprung joint in the center but I felt most comfortable with the perfectly straight joint working from the C&J Art of... book. I glued it up immediately after planing using a 1:3 mix (glue:water ratio by weight using digital scale) of Bjorne 315 bloom HHG at 140 deg. (Mixed the dry glue and cold water and let soak overnight the day before) First I gently warmed both pieces over a heater for a while then warmed the joint face with a hair dryer until slightly warm on my ear, then I poured the glue straight onto the joint from the bottle like David Sora does in his video (I think he uses a 1:4 mix but I’m not sure if that means volume, weight, etc) and rubbed together till I felt it bite, adjusted the bottom plane and let sit for a couple hours before moving and letting dry for 24+ hours. Maybe 8 seconds total working time from glue jar to untouched rubbed joint. 8DC0336F-6F5E-4067-ABD0-5BE11311ABD6.MOV To me the glue line looked (nearly) seamless after it dried except the top and bottom inch where there was a slightly visible glue line on the top of the plate but no gap (and no gaps anywhere before gluing) However when I first made cut offs from the board ends, they almost all broke near cleanly apart at the glue line. In the photo below, group 1 was the first cutoffs that made me worried. I thought maybe the ends were just not perfect so I kept trying while I had spare wood and finally got the two pieces in group 2 that had some splits along the wood and not just the glue line which led me to believe I was ok. However, after sawing out the outline, both the top and bottom cutoffs in group 3 snapped apart at the glue line after applying slight pressure with my fingers. I guess my question boils down to this: Does this seem normal/bad/weird/good/anything to anyone? My biggest concern is having the plate split apart at the seam once’s it’s thinned out or worse after it’s carved. The idea of tightening the strings when the cutoffs popped apart as easily as they did terrifies me. Any suggestions? After cutting apart and regluing the back plate 5 times (with 4mm of wood on the lower bouts to spare at the end!) I am confident I have more than enough extra wood to cut the seam apart and re glue the wedges before continuing if the break tests suggest that. It seems most people would cut apart and re glue if there is a clean break at the joint. I’m just not sure what I can do differently from last time. It seems like all my practice pieces are good, using almost any method, but anytime I actually glue the plates together it doesn’t work. I’ve thought time could be the issue which is why I went for only a rub joint on the top plate? For the maple joint I brushed thick glue and rubbed it in, whipped off excess, hair dryer then brushed glue, rubbed and clamped. I see some people glue size the joints before but I’m more worried about the spruce joint swelling or having too much glue than starving the joint. Before doing all of this, since I had no experience with HHG, I tested glue ratios of 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, 1:5 both by weight and volume, glued up at least 50 test pieces each varying by either a rub joint, clamped joint, pouring the glue on one face and rubbing or brushing a thinner coat to both joints, then rubbing. I found the 1:2 to be the “strongest” but also had a visible glue line, the 1:3 was the “strongest” with an invisible joint, and sometimes the rub joint was just as strong as the clamped, but more often the clamped joints were a little better. Only the 1:4 and 1:5 ratios split apart cleanly at the glue line hence why I didn’t use them. My shop does get very cold but after stoking the fire and running the heater it is always at least 65-70 deg F when I am gluing, with a heater underneath the glue area and a hair dryer to warm the wood just before gluing. I plane the joints while it’s hot in the room and glue up minutes after I have a perfect joint. Last night I took the spruce cutoffs from the outline and planed them and redid glue tests with 1:2, 1:3 and 1:4 ratios with both rubbed and clamped joints. All but the 1:4 ratio pieces either broke away from the seam or barely on what glue line in a good way. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now I am happy with the back and will continue on that while I wait to see if there are any replies. Thanks again for your time and any help offered. Initial maple cutoffs and breaks: Outline Cut Off:
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