Taylor Sincich

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About Taylor Sincich

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  1. Haha! Thank you so much for your time and opinion Mr. Sora. That was exactly the type of feedback that I was looking for. I understand I am bypassing the cost, time and dedication it traditionally takes most to learn this craft and am essentially asking for trade secrets for free with nothing for you in return. For that I am truly thankful and and in your debt. I also haven’t heard of others using Westerlund’s method but for now I cross my fingers and hope it works out on the back. Luckily, It did not have significant end grain along the joint and the cutoffs seem to be strong so
  2. Thank you for your insight Dennis! A lot of good things to think about. For now, and since it is my first violin, I think I’m committed to the piece I have but will keep this all in mind for future projects if God willing I make it through this one!
  3. Thank you for your insight Mr. Sora and all of your videos and previous help. I understand your point. I had such a hard time planing the maple joint that once I had it perfect I didn’t want to let it dry over night and have to re plane it. I’ve also seen other posts on here that suggest NOT letting it dry more than overnight if sizing. I’ve also read that some people glue the joint and break it apart and re glue it all in one step. I went off this video by Peter Westerlund where he rubs the glue in first, wipes off excess and uses a hair dryer before gluing it again and clamping. To me it see
  4. Thanks everyone for your replies! I appreciate the feedback. I’m open to the possibility of bad glue but for now I assume it’s user error. Also because I have not had any issue with the glue for any other part of the build like the rib garland, the back joint seems strong and all the test pieces have been strong as well. I guess this photo represents my entire inquiry. Is the top glue joint bad/good/ok/not acceptable when compared to the lower? The top two pieces are the outline cut out that snapped relatively easy clean at the glue joint with 1:3 glue and a rub joint, no clam
  5. Thanks for your reply Dennis! What do you consider soft/low density spruce? (I have no clue so I am genuinely curious) I bought all the tonewood from Rauch Tonewood. I’m very happy with it and Thomas and Johanna were amazingly helpful. Ive seen this graph somewhere else on maestronet but I’m not sure if it refers to the maple or spruce wood
  6. Thanks Wood Butcher! I've read through that post, very informative. Shunyata, sorry, I AM worried about starving the joint, hence I usually lean toward using too much glue which I'm worried may be the issue. I always rub out all the excess and tape paper to the sides. So I should have said, I am not worried about starving the joint because I always have plenty of squeeze out. I am thinking I should re glue with clamps as well.
  7. Hello, My name is Taylor and I’m new to Maestronet. Though I’ve been reading through the pegbox religiously while I am currently building my first violin I have never posted before and just wanted to start by saying thanks to all of you in this community for being such a wonderful resource in so many ways. I hope to be able to add in positive ways in the future. My current problem is gluing the spruce center joint. I’m aware this should be a relatively simple and basic task compared to everything else but I think it comes down to I simply have no experience with Hot Hide Glue and a