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Gino Yu

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    yujieviolin.com

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    Melbourne , Australia

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  1. Thanks, I don't have a specific cello which need to be reduced the size like Jacob had, and I assume that I understand your way to keep the instrument as original as possible. Like I mentioned, I just interested in the technical manner they(old dealer) used to cut down the size of the cello(the big problem one). I think in the most case the cello will be at least 20-30 mm longer. Like Jacob's cello. In this kind of case, there is a huge area need to be cut off, the arching, ribs, blocks. Together they can be a big problem. Since no one make a 79 cm cello for a long time, it seems this kind of technic doesn't show in any restoration books. So, Just curious. There are so many of them(reduced cello), there should be a common way.
  2. Thanks, Jacob, looks the Europe have already wake up, the America still not. But in Melbourne, I must go to bed. I see your project and the lines you have drawn. But in this way, the gap in my picture will be unnecessary, or it has some connection to do with the purfling witch can not be cut but have to be covered. Anyway, I will cut down the cello size if it belongs to me.
  3. Buon giorno Maestro. Thanks for the translation.
  4. Hello dear friends, I have this question in my head for a long time. But I must admit that I can't figure it out. I don't want to reduce anything, just wondering the process. The possible scenario in my head is to cut the upper shoulder part of the plate and separate the Nocetta from the back, then cut the part to achieve the measurements they want, then remade the new purfling regard to the new outline than attach the Nocetta.) I can see that there is some "new" cutting line on the edges, and they are parallel with the centre joint, but I want to understand how exactly it has been done,like what they do with the ribs and blocks, and it looks there is more than one solution. Many thanks. The image belong to two Strad early cellos.
  5. From the point of a Chinese view, it is the character 外. "Outside".
  6. Gino Yu

    .......

    Just finished reading Francois Denis's book. Really enjoy it, and it is a very solid and friendly starting point.
  7. It seems that the following answers are beside the point. I might be able to give you some information because I was one of his pupil. I think the last time I heard the price for a violin was around 200,000 RMB.(30,000 dollars)
  8. The best thing I have learned in violin making school it's not a skill, but the relationship between the makers. I might not become a good luthier, but someone else will be.
  9. Very happy to learn something new. Both with the history and language.
  10. I'm using LED for my varnish. I was living in China, So I can get a good price. I have tried many of them. They are quite different from fluorescent bulbs and also from each other. The wattage doesn't indicate as much as fluorescent bulbs. What kind of lamp bead are they using is the most important thing. The wattage might be the same but the price and the technology can be completely different. The beam angle is much narrow. If we can say the fluorescent bulbs are 360°, Then the LED's might be 45-60°, again depends on lamp bead. In this point of view, the fluorescent bulbs with Aluminium foil can be much more efficient. I have a little talk with the supplier, the LED UV need to be placed as close as possible to the object, Its efficiency diminishes rapidly with distance. For my opinion, the LED strips you have very low energy, they are made just for decoration. Might do the work, but same wattage, the fluorescent bulbs can do a better job. In my picture, The big black spot LED light I'm using, It's my finial choice. 10 watts, for normal oil-varnish not too thick, It can dry it in 1-2 ores. But, they are not cheap at all. In China, it cost me about 60 US dollars each. Good luck.
  11. Take a look of this Japanese brand, I use them for a long time. https://www.amazon.com.au/D-Set-SHAPTON-Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone/dp/B01FYEYKCK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shapton&qid=1614910416&sr=8-1
  12. Thank you so much guys! I think David it's right about my issue. The temperature inside my box is around 32-34C normally, if the outside is hotter, sometimes go higher(we are in summer) So normally what temperature do you trying to maintain in the box?
  13. Hi David. It's higher. Just like a resin on the spruce bark.
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