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    Violin Making, Tool Making, Drawing, Foood, Sarcasm, and Being Blunt.

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CaseyLouque's Achievements


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  1. Will let you know later this week going to construct a device to accurately measure the arch. I will need one so this is as good of a time as any to do so.
  2. What are the best methods for measuring arch height on a constructed violin?
  3. VSO body I constructed did some test varnishing on it. I found varnishing much more complicated than I originally thought. I have a pre carved neck lying around that I will use to finish this piece. This is the body constructed from post I did looking for advice on purfling. I should have completed construction in the white first but I felt like I couldn’t resist trying varnishing. It will probably never look right I am guessing. Decided to post anyways.
  4. I would welcome criticism of my builds and work as I believe it will help me improve. I will be posting things and am using as practice pieces and a complete build of the ex Huberman strad this year.
  5. Trying to shove a rattlesnake rattle into a sound hole?!
  6. I have Brian Derber’s book and it is excellent. *recommended*go get it. i have David S. Lashof’s book and is is good. I don’t regret buying it. i have Henry strobes book on violin making and it is ok. I think his drawing is a nice reference for a beginner .*note I do not have his entire series* i would get a luthier poster or two from the strad for reference. every book and series all seems to start with sharpening your tools…
  7. For my first rib set I found using dowel rods from a local hardware store useful. Take your template and a straight edge in and compare to the rods for upper and lower blocks. Try to find a straight one that is as close to your curve of the c bout corner blocks. Cut to size glue on the sand paper once dry check the flatness again and if all is well should make finishing the c blocks a bit easier. I didn’t check for flatness on my first round with the dowels… so I got plenty of practice I did them three times! C’est la vie
  8. Found this on the plate tuning website. I found this information interesting to look at possibly useful. This is not a recommendation from me. Please refer to experienced makers.
  9. Now that you both say that it makes logical sense to do it that way. ill cut down the maple to the eye width. I also will cut down my next neck as well I have another set waiting.
  10. I think I may have just barely gotten away with it. I drew a centerline though I’m not 100% done with squaring cleanup. I have about 41.5mm wide on the maple for the 25mm area where the right eye sits. I have no desire for a spruce right eye. but if so I guess. c'est la vie and yes i have some shavings I need to clean up…
  11. I modified mine same brand as op to work more like the way other have posted. @Davide Sora Has made an excellent point that the cutters included are too thick to be used to actually cut they are 1.3mm each. I have some exacto no. 2 blades and they are 0.6mm each. With a very small shim cut and modified they would work perfectly if you cut grind and modify. This should be an improvement to the original tool. This takes a good bit of grinding and polishing on 10 different angles to get this shape and it could be done better.
  12. Thanks for all the input guys. Squared up one entire side with most of the other. The piece I added can easily be seen in this shot. Now to square and smooth this out the last 1-0.5mm so we can get to marking and carving.
  13. I do not repair and will make no comments on it. They are excellent and very good restorers who do excellent repair work who can address validity if they choose to. @maestroKimon does occasionally come to this forum. He has a response on youtube about his use of whiteglue.
  14. Yes that picture illustrates what I was thinking of doing. i have scraps of wood hanging around as well. I’ll just cut and glue some scraps to the block and square it off so I can put the template on the side square and accurately bandsaw the template. I’ll do both sides since I’m new to this the less ways I can muck it up the better. then I’ll be done with the easy part
  15. I was thinking I would have to temporarily glue some wood to the side and square it to fingerboard area. Then cut out the general shape on my bandsaw. Without removing any wood it seems to be about 42mm at the eye of the scroll. Any advice from makers on how I can go about this would be appreciated.
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