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    Violin Making, Tool Making, Drawing, Foood, Sarcasm, and Being Blunt.

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  1. @Crimson0087 This is a video of I believe @MJ Kwan doing a plate joint. It shows the curls from the cut very clearly. *If I’m wrong correct me please* I believe this is the method that David was referring to.
  2. I know veritas has chisels made from A powdered metal I’ve heard nothing but good about it. I think it’s labeled as PM with different variations. Easier to sharpen than most of the other super steels. I know tools made from A2 steel can make some excellent tools. Can get a fine edge and is pretty durable. And it is a high carbon steel like mentioned by @JacksonMaberry.
  3. I have two other design possibilities but not sure about hinges and the slop they can introduce. would address one concern but possibly cause another. I’ll show anyways. Someone might point out further flaws I didn’t think of. first would be similar to a compass. Second would be a ladder type notch on each side. I may just have to design print and test.
  4. @carl1961 What about replacing many tools with one. Since we can 3d print it we have a possibility to improve it? I can design an STL when I get off work unless you feel so inclined. I had an idea for “keys that are stored in the tool that you can change the distance with a quick swap. could even add spots for neodymium magnets to be inserted into the part and keys so they “snap in place”
  5. Will let you know later this week going to construct a device to accurately measure the arch. I will need one so this is as good of a time as any to do so.
  6. What are the best methods for measuring arch height on a constructed violin?
  7. VSO body I constructed did some test varnishing on it. I found varnishing much more complicated than I originally thought. I have a pre carved neck lying around that I will use to finish this piece. This is the body constructed from post I did looking for advice on purfling. I should have completed construction in the white first but I felt like I couldn’t resist trying varnishing. It will probably never look right I am guessing. Decided to post anyways.
  8. I would welcome criticism of my builds and work as I believe it will help me improve. I will be posting things and am using as practice pieces and a complete build of the ex Huberman strad this year.
  9. Trying to shove a rattlesnake rattle into a sound hole?!
  10. I have Brian Derber’s book and it is excellent. *recommended*go get it. i have David S. Lashof’s book and is is good. I don’t regret buying it. i have Henry strobes book on violin making and it is ok. I think his drawing is a nice reference for a beginner .*note I do not have his entire series* i would get a luthier poster or two from the strad for reference. every book and series all seems to start with sharpening your tools…
  11. For my first rib set I found using dowel rods from a local hardware store useful. Take your template and a straight edge in and compare to the rods for upper and lower blocks. Try to find a straight one that is as close to your curve of the c bout corner blocks. Cut to size glue on the sand paper once dry check the flatness again and if all is well should make finishing the c blocks a bit easier. I didn’t check for flatness on my first round with the dowels… so I got plenty of practice I did them three times! C’est la vie
  12. Found this on the plate tuning website. I found this information interesting to look at possibly useful. This is not a recommendation from me. Please refer to experienced makers.
  13. Now that you both say that it makes logical sense to do it that way. ill cut down the maple to the eye width. I also will cut down my next neck as well I have another set waiting.
  14. I think I may have just barely gotten away with it. I drew a centerline though I’m not 100% done with squaring cleanup. I have about 41.5mm wide on the maple for the 25mm area where the right eye sits. I have no desire for a spruce right eye. but if so I guess. c'est la vie and yes i have some shavings I need to clean up…
  15. I modified mine same brand as op to work more like the way other have posted. @Davide Sora Has made an excellent point that the cutters included are too thick to be used to actually cut they are 1.3mm each. I have some exacto no. 2 blades and they are 0.6mm each. With a very small shim cut and modified they would work perfectly if you cut grind and modify. This should be an improvement to the original tool. This takes a good bit of grinding and polishing on 10 different angles to get this shape and it could be done better.
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