Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

CaseyLouque

Members
  • Posts

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    louisiana
  • Interests
    Violin Making, Tool Making, Drawing, Foood, Sarcasm, and Being Blunt.

Recent Profile Visitors

307 profile views

CaseyLouque's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

  1. Now that you both say that it makes logical sense to do it that way. ill cut down the maple to the eye width. I also will cut down my next neck as well I have another set waiting.
  2. I think I may have just barely gotten away with it. I drew a centerline though I’m not 100% done with squaring cleanup. I have about 41.5mm wide on the maple for the 25mm area where the right eye sits. I have no desire for a spruce right eye. but if so I guess. c'est la vie and yes i have some shavings I need to clean up…
  3. I modified mine same brand as op to work more like the way other have posted. @Davide Sora Has made an excellent point that the cutters included are too thick to be used to actually cut they are 1.3mm each. I have some exacto no. 2 blades and they are 0.6mm each. With a very small shim cut and modified they would work perfectly if you cut grind and modify. This should be an improvement to the original tool. This takes a good bit of grinding and polishing on 10 different angles to get this shape and it could be done better.
  4. Thanks for all the input guys. Squared up one entire side with most of the other. The piece I added can easily be seen in this shot. Now to square and smooth this out the last 1-0.5mm so we can get to marking and carving.
  5. I do not repair and will make no comments on it. They are excellent and very good restorers who do excellent repair work who can address validity if they choose to. @maestroKimon does occasionally come to this forum. He has a response on youtube about his use of whiteglue.
  6. Yes that picture illustrates what I was thinking of doing. i have scraps of wood hanging around as well. I’ll just cut and glue some scraps to the block and square it off so I can put the template on the side square and accurately bandsaw the template. I’ll do both sides since I’m new to this the less ways I can muck it up the better. then I’ll be done with the easy part
  7. I was thinking I would have to temporarily glue some wood to the side and square it to fingerboard area. Then cut out the general shape on my bandsaw. Without removing any wood it seems to be about 42mm at the eye of the scroll. Any advice from makers on how I can go about this would be appreciated.
  8. @Dennis J Is that a tool you made or purchased? @JacksonMaberry @Michael Darnton Are you guys referring to one made like these two? @Crimson0087 I've had slightly better success with the similar tools. Ive only used the purfling *cutter* as a marker. I only slightly scratched the surface then came back and carefully cut the purfling miter. I grinded the tips of the purfling marker to 1.3mm at the tips. *measured with caliper* Also i had to modify my cheap purfling pick as it was 1.8mm wide. Ground this down to 1.2mm. As a side note ill be replacing my cheap tools most likely with something similar to what Dennis J is using. Picture below is my first attempt. Don't use for a reference as how it should look... Hope this helps with tweaks and method to your current toolset.
  9. This is awesome! Its like two of my favorite things combined....
  10. Happy new years to everyone. Thank you all for the information and advice provided. Just hopefully in the school of maestronet I wont be the dunce. c'est la vie
  11. Butchered this but I thought I’d post anyways. Drawing it on pencil and execution two different worlds. Still came out better than I would have originally. c'est la vie violin#1 purfling .
  12. @Jeffrey Holmes Are you talking about this article? The case for casein Roger Hargrave proposes a casein link with Stradivari.
  13. Wouldn't Fish Glue be a good alternative to PVA? I read that it dosn't suffer from the creep issues of PVA can be reworked with moisture. Its ready to use in a bottle no heating or wetting required. Similar curing time. I am not advocating it use over hide glue. I believe hide glue should be used. But if I had to choose to do a repair on an instrument previously fixed with PVA or fish glue I would rather work with the fish glue.
×
×
  • Create New...