Jump to content

David Stiles

Members
  • Posts

    161
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Beaches of Sydney Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

765 profile views

David Stiles's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

  1. And here it is with a casein ground. Nice golden brown.
  2. It's hard to see in the pics but the back maple was quite a bit darker than the sides and of course, the spruce. With some good Aussie sun, tea and careful use of 2% Sodium Nitrite, I think I have got a good balanced tanning.
  3. My violin no.4 is ready to go into the UV cabinet, or outside when the weather is right. I am very happy with the way it's looking. Some very nice maple!
  4. I just finished building a UV cabinet. I have 90watts of LED, mix of 365nm & 395nm. Starting testing tanning and varnish drying today.
  5. What are the attributes of Spirit of Camphor in the polish recipe? I wonder if Australian alternatives would do the same job. Perhaps Eucalyptus oil or Tea Tree oil.
  6. I have found the small razor files from Stewmac very useful. They cut aggressively like a raspb but leave a smooth surface. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/files/razor-files/#mz-expanded-view-239959012340
  7. Sounds like a good plan. Please note that I edited my measurements after you read my post.
  8. I just measured my smaller gouges because their sweep numbers don't relate to radii. They are 3.75mm, 8mm & 12mm. I have managed with those three together with a flat gouge for scrolls. The 3.75mm only does the last 1/4 turn near the eye but is good for fluting the narrow part of the volute. A 4mm would be pretty useful. It would be nice to have something I between the 3.75 & the 8mm but not critical.
  9. Am I reading this, wrong? It seems to me you ordered 5mm and 7mm radii.
  10. That looks really nice Dave. What ground are you using?
  11. A Shipwright's Compass can draw large radius curves. Not hard to make one.
  12. It's alive and well down under, and at least some parts of the USA it seems.
  13. There is another candidate for a pinned post. This place is much kinder than many, but it is well worth working to keep it that way.
  14. Thanks Michael, makes sense, I can see what you mean here. Thanks for empathizing this, I have a lot to learn. I am not sure if I am in a 'mess', I still think this violin could well be better than my last. I have not been focused on mode tuning, just trying to get to a target weight. If we had had this conversation earlier, I wouId have been comfortable taking more weight out from the centre. I probably still could take a little. I am not keen on mode tuning for it's own sake, just as a crutch while I learn what a plate should feel like. Mode frequencies may be a useful as a measure to communicate what a late is like to others.
  15. I am grateful to have received so many good responses here. Thank you everyone. So much to unpack but it seems I am generally on the right track in wanting to build a slightly stiffer instrument. I note Michael Szyper's and others comments regarding the importance of arching. I made every effort to make what to what I perceive as correct, but this seems so subjective. This violin has lower arching and not as full as I have made previously. Setup & adjustments will come soon, and I have no idea what I would do differently there. I need to explore that. I hope I have learnt Michael Darnton's lesson about trying to take graduations too close to the edge and avoided doing that. My edges are around 3.2mm under the purfling with thinnest areas starting about 20-25mm in, further near platforms. The areas of thinnest graduations do not cross the centreline, where I have kept it a little thicker. This top is a lot stiffer, particularly across the grain than my last one. This may be due to the particular timber but probably more to do with arching. It does look stiff as Anders' commented so there may be scope to thin further. Can I get to a more uniform Cremonese graduation scheme? It is very interesting that Michael Darnton raised this point. I would like to know how this reconciles with the common advice to keep areas around soundpost & F holes thicker. By the time one leaves these areas thick, say 3mm, there is not much area left in the centre that can be thinned. Is there a middle ground compromise between uniform graduations and this?
×
×
  • Create New...