Jump to content
Maestronet Forums


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Aurella

  1. That's fine It's not really what I was trying to articulate though, and I wasn't really aiming my post at you, it was just general in nature. Apologies if I was unclear. If someone states their intention to present the written opinion of an expert on an internet forum to their customers as some sort of official appraisal, to be taken as fact, the expert might quite rightly feel that this opinion was gained unfairly, as it devalues their professional appraisal services. That is why it is fair for the poster to state their intention, so any expert can choose whether or not it is appropriate for them to respond out of goodwill. Personally, if a seller had no idea as to the origins of a violin and they offered me a violin with the appraisal based only on internet forum hearsay, I would run for the hills I don't doubt any other customers might feel the same.
  2. It's a matter of liability. When someone pays an expert for a certificate or written opinion, the expert is being paid not only for their opinion, but also for accepting an element of risk in giving this opinion. King Louis has stated that he is seeking the opinion of any Maestronet expert/s as a security for his customers. I doubt the experts mind giving an opinion about the violin, as they do this for lots of Maestronet ID requests, but they do mind accepting an element of risk on their professional behalf without receiving the fee they would normally receive for this service. Especially without having had a chance to properly inspect the violin or view detailed photographs. Hence the issue at hand.
  3. Hi Vion As a starting point it's a good idea to assume any label is fake. More violins have imitation or replica labels than not, even in older instruments. This is because there are so many mass produced violins in existence. Then it is a good idea to look carefully at the attributes of the violin and compare it to other violins of that supposed era/location and also to any other certified violins by that maker. Only then would I rely on a label to back up any attribution. Edit: The end pin doesn't look too bad, but make sure it is well wedged in before attaching the strings and tailpiece. Otherwise if it isn't going in fully, the hole might need to be reamed slightly more.
  4. Thanks Alexander. The label and written ink certainly looks legit and it looks like an inside mould may have been used for the build? Someone commented earlier in the thread about the dark bits around the edges - in these photos it just looks like bits of old residue that needs cleaning. I don't know what it is about the tops of corners but dirt always seems to accumulate more there than anywhere else.
  5. It looks like a standard trade violin to me. The rib corners are pinched and look a bit crooked. That level of finish is common for mass produced instruments at that time. However it's certainly the case that some trade violins have an excellent sound.
  6. Hi Vion To me it looks Bohemian late 19th century but I'm sure others may be able to provide a more accurate assessment.
  7. I completely agree, I really meant there's no way to know given the evidence presented.
  8. Well as it stands, probably not, but as has been pointed out there isn't really a reference for what his earlier models may have looked like. I suppose one would have to examine a few Azzola instruments in detail to form a definitive opinion. In the newer pictures the varnish appears of better quality, and it looks like the f holes are slightly fluted (unless it's a shadow) which is a nice touch. Alexander, would it be possible to take a close up of the corners? Just out of curiosity, as it's a bit hard to see in the other pictures Thanks for sharing your photos.
  9. *raises hand unapologetically* Yes I've done this just once, kept a violin that I bought in intending to sell but when I tried it out it felt perfect and sounded amazing. I still have it and it's one of my favourites. No regrets
  10. There are some pictures of Azzola violins on Tarisio. Among other things the f holes and scrolls are quite different to those of the OP.
  11. Thanks Martin. The scroll eye threw me too!
  12. I have a Blondelet which looks completely different. Does yours have the Blondelet name stamped under the end pin?
  13. Aurella

    Violin ID

    The outline looks rather Hopf. Late 18th/early 19th?
  14. Very helpful again, thanks! I'll be interested to see how it plays once it's all fixed up. The frog mortice needs to be bushed first, it was either cut wide originally, or it's worn away a bit.
  15. Thanks for the info I checked the mortice and it's more or less squarish on all sides. That's interesting about the different names, thanks for the feedback. How would you say bauwaua compares to pernambuco in terms of density? I'm curious if there is a noticeable difference in the resonance of the stick.
  16. Thanks Blank face, that thread is very helpful. It does look like the bauwaua wood. Unfortunately I don't know for sure that it's French, that's just how it was labelled when I purchased it. Not that it really matters for me. I'm guessing it may have been labelled that way due to the Tourte style head. However the date looks about right, from the style of frog and lack of tip plate. Having said that, I just did a search for bauwaua in the forum posts and it only seems to be mentioned in relation to French bows. Would it likely have been used in German bows too? I'm changing the frog to a similar looking modern one with silver fittings, to make the playing balance feel right for me. The old frog is cracked on both sides but I'll probably just keep it and glue it back together.
  17. Pirastro Violino A should work. I find the Violinos a good low tension gut substitute on my fragile oldest violin. Except for the G string, where I use an Evah Pirazzi to ramp up the bass. Albeit I haven't had much success with Violinos except on that particular violin. Violino, Obligato, and Evah Pirazzi are essentially the same string, just in different tensions. Larsen Originals are also pretty low tension.
  18. I have an old bow, supposedly French, circa 1830 and am not quite sure about the wood type. I was wondering if anyone here might be able to recognise the grain?
  19. I'm considering buying this bow and as it's unlabelled I'm curious about trying to find out the maker, if possible. I was wondering if anyone might happen to recognise the style?
  20. Ah, I concur re the edge, didn't notice that. But some higher end Chinese violins are pretty convincing. One of my advanced students brought in a (brand new) "old" instrument to try the other week and I was pretty impressed with the level of detail in the antiquing and the overall style. The sound wasn't great (sorry student ) but purely as a copy it did look convincing.
  21. Definitely Czech or antiqued Chinese, depending on the age. JTL would have a paper label, and the corners are the wrong shape, too rounded. The edge joints don't look thick enough and possibly have been blackened to hide the obvious join? The timber and varnish colour don't have the typical JTL look either. The blackening of the pegbox is a bit obvious too.
  22. Hello LilHobbit, I also have a Laberte "Derazey". I can thoroughly recommend them, the sound and response on mine is outstanding, very full and smooth. I enjoy the youthfulness and openness of the "French" sound. Like the violin in your photo, mine also has on Evah Pirazzi Gold strings which are an excellent fit. (I switched to the green ones to experiment, but the sound was much better with the golds.)
  23. Thank you, yes I was leaning towards 1800s but wasn't sure. No label so cottage industry fits (plus of course the chunky monkey scroll ) The neck angle is fine but I'll have to replace the fingerboard, it's not very pretty. I think I'll keep the original nut as I like its unstained look. There is a very tiny hairline gap where the ribs meet the neck, I was wondering about that but now I understand about the through neck it makes sense. Would a bit of hide glue with sawdust do to seal it up?
  24. That's interesting, thanks for the info. Would this help to determine the date or around where it was made? (I'm guessing German ...?)
  • Create New...