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charliemaine

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Everything posted by charliemaine

  1. If it's dye your after I would recommend this kit. The dyes are excellent and can be mixed into many shades. https://www.woodessence.com/Dyes-Pigments/ColorFX-Dye-Concentrates/ColorFX-Dye-Wood-Tone-Kits
  2. I've done several long cooks and never achieved a nice red color. When spread thin and a red pigment was mixed in it always turned way too orange, naturally. The key was to find a good transparent red varnish. There are a few varnish makers producing these. A nice red varnish mixed with red pigments helps lay down an intense layer of color. I never liked the look of varnish mixed with tube paints. I find lakes look better and are more transparent. I also prefer pigments in dry form rather than in the tube.
  3. These three are my favorite pigments. When mixed with these varnishes I can control the intensity and need only two or three coats of color on top of the ground color. And finally a clear coat on top. Others have recommended these but I have yet to experiment with them. For me madder and cochineal lakes work when mixed with the varnishes mentioned. This is just two coats...
  4. Another recent addition to the Spurgeon article I found worth saving. As this idea has come up a lot in discussion on MN. Here it is... heat refining debunked There is a linseed oil refining method that sometimes surfaces that involves heating the oil to 600F briefly to 'burn off' the mucilage. Simple, done, why do anything else? I've always thought this could not work, mostly because no one, from all the older refining methods, to the modern refining method, does this. All these methods involve water. Because the mucilage is water-soluble. But this came up again recently from a correspondent who simply wanted to know if it was true, and I asked my friend Roland what he thought about it. Roland is a chemist by trade and both thinks about and researches these things several levels beyond what I can. First, he found out that the 600F method has its origin in print in a 20th century industrial method to bleach oil. But he didn't find anything about using this method to refine the oil, so he decided to do it and see what happened. He heated the oil as quickly as possible on a hot plate with a stirbar to 600F, then let it cool, and washed it with water and salt. And there is the mucilage, changed, like the oil, by the heat, but present. And will therefore make the film weaker, and attract water that makes the film darker. But, gasp, note that the oil is lighter! Oh my, this must mean it is better! But the 'wet' colour of the oil and the 'dry' colour of the oil are a function of two different processes. They have nothing to do with one another. The wet colour is always fugitive unless the oil has been carbonized. (This is in fact part of the strange appeal of the leaded oil called black oil, the nefarious wet colour 'magically' disappears.) The dry colour is a function of chemical changes that can occur as the fatty acids in the oil are broken down and rearranged into smaller molecules by interacting with oxygen. Everyone thinks that the wet and dry colour are linked. Even Ralph Mayer thought this. But they are not. No, no, a thousand times no. Yet, people want to believe it, so they do. I went through this myself for many years before finally realizing that two different things were involved. Isn't it weird how easy it is to be fooled by appearances? Anyway, this procedure might be useful after the oil has been refined for a fine style, but it doesn't refine the oil. Microscope photo from Roland of the oil above. Round bubbles are water, wrinkled bubbles are mucilage coagulated by heat.
  5. It's still here for now, you can save the .jpeg images. https://www.tadspurgeon.com/content.php?page=just+oil
  6. If you read Spurgeon's article he mentions doing this. It works.
  7. What brand of contour gauge are you using? Varsk?
  8. The color looks very much the same as Old Wood's primer which to me is a little too orange. When I used OW's primer I suspected it had some dye mixed with an oxidizer because of the orangey color. Are you adding any type of coloring agent to the oxidizer? Do you get the same color on maple? I prefer more yellow/gold in my ground. Nice blotch free application.
  9. If anyone has a copy to sell please let me know.
  10. Two (2) Ibex, round sole, thumb planes, 8 &10mm width blades. New in box. Price $100.00 plus 10.00 shipping Paypal, OK
  11. Thanks Davide, If I was going to wash more oil to make varnish I'd buy one of these. The Hot Water, Salt and Sand method is labor intensive and messy without a doubt. I think that is the reason many prefer not to do it. A separatory funnel looks like it would work beautifully for the initial washings.
  12. What is the upside-down system?
  13. Interesting...How old is the oil and where did you source it?
  14. Wow, that is a lot of mucilage. What brand of oil?
  15. Millennials......interesting bunch of flavor. I won't be around to see what happens to this generation. Maybe they will save the world, I hope they can live in a better and cleaner world.
  16. Purchased from Rausch Tonewood who purchased from Gleissner. Density, dimensions and other info available on their website here: https://rauchtonewood.com/collections/violin-tops/products/violin-viola-top-1000000196?variant=38121606480055 Nice top Price: 75.00 plus 10.00 shipping
  17. If you buy sand, Spurgeon recommend's pool sand or other coarse silica sand. I bought a bag from a pool dealer. Not sure if Lowes carries pool sand. You only need a 1/2 cup per 1/2 gallon mason jar wash so a bag will last a long time. *It's also a good idea to rinse the sand with water before using it. I don't know when I'll get around to washing more oil, I just had a carpal tunnel release. I was hoping you would be able to tell me after washing it. Looking forward to your results.
  18. Hi Steve I haven’t tried using a blender or vinegar. I use pickling salt and pool sand only and then use heat to clear the oil. My oil of choice was Allback raw Swedish linseed bought from Viking Sales. I do have bottle of Ottoson boiled linseed that I haven’t tested yet. From what I remember reading their boiled linseed is only boiled without any driers or additives. I also have a gallon of Varnish Makers oil from Wood Finishing Ent. I have enough commercial made varnish that I haven’t had the need to make any varnish. Out of curiosity I do think that I’ll wash the remaining Allback oil that I have just to see what effects of sitting in a sunny room in 1 gallon glass jugs for several years has had, if any. I’ve had great success with using the hot water salt and sand method to wash the oil. I haven’t tried any other methods of washing but I’m sure there are many ways to get a good clean oil for varnish making.
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