charliemaine

Yup, that works good. Many times I'll make my own posts from scratch so I try and preserve them. I've seen more than a few posts on the verge of splitting and with multiple stab wounds. When fitting a new post in one of my new fiddles I don't mind stabbing them over and over. But when the fit is established then I put a new post in and usually all that is needed is one small stab.

Didn't mean to imply that, I understood reusing the same hole. I always reuse the same hole too, never stab it in two different places. But even stabbing in the same hole too many times can ruin/split a post.

The only thing I do different than Evan, if the post is too long rather than stab it I go in from the treble hole and push with the slotted part of the setter. I avoid stabbing it too many times. Definitely works for me. If I need to rotate the post then I'll sometimes use the scissor setter, but it's easier to just remove the post and reset it. I also put a small alignment mark on the bottom center of the post as a reference point. I can tell by the mark if the post is suituated correctly or needs to be rotated. The final fit is looking through the endpin hole and using a mirror through the soundholes. My favorite necessary tools for setting a post is Doug's luthier light and a magnifying visor.

It's how I was taught. I have no problem setting a post exactly where and how I want it from the bass side with the traditional setter. I tried the treble side and didn't like it. I can push the post into position from the bass side without the post falling off the setter.

Me too.

Good to know Thanks Don, that's about what I'm getting too on my recent 5 string when I adjust the tail cord up to the saddle. Have you tried the opposite and leave the excess on the saddle side?

I like these tailpieces too for all the same reasons as Don. I just wish they were longer in length, especially the 5 string versions. My 5 stringed fiddles are a little wider and use a wider bridge so the wider spacing tailpiece works. Question for Don,...What do you set the afterlength to on your fiddles when using these tailpieces? You've mentioned before that you like to leave the tailgut close to the saddle and that would leave a long afterlength on a 360mm fiddle.

SOLD

New in box. These are currently out of stock until May. Also included is an original Landers, Frary & Clark glue pot.

Back & sides are red maple and looks roasted, brown line is the distingquishing feature. Manfio uses red maple and it looks similiar. The scroll looks European. https://www.curlymaplewood.com/Roasted-Flatsawn-Curly-Maple_c_111.html

What brand/type of case do you have? I use Boveda and find the results and longevity differ depending on the case. They are the most stable and consistent in my fiberglass Calton cases. One pack will last several months as long as I close the case after opening and using the instrument. The packs don't last as long in my wooden cases and especially the cheaper thin cases. So the type of case will produce different results. My most expensive instruments have better cases so I use Boveda packs in them without any issues. I don't use Boveda in the cheaper cases because they dry out too fast. During winter months I keep these instruments in a different climate, like an unheated closed closet.

FYI, this oil is raw and unwashed. Before making varnish washing the oil is recommended.

Got it, Thanks! 2 pounds left.

I just found 4lbs more of the light Aleppo colophony hiding in my cabinet if anyone is interested.

I still have oil for sale.