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About Ted_B

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  1. You guys are amazing! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I learned a lot, and if screwing up the holes was the price I had to pay, it was well worth it. Just so you know, I believe that one should support their local luthiers and not try to cheap out on quality work. I have a nicer antique violin on which my local luthier recently did an outstanding job plugging the holes and installing new pegs. The main reason I decided to do it myself on this violin, is because you, in a previous thread, and also my luthier advised that this violin isn't worth the expense by a long shot.
  2. OK, I made a template from another violin and only had to move the A-peg hole to account for the difference in scroll curvature. It worked ok, but the pegs are a bit squeaky and don't feel smooth which makes is harder to fine tune. What's the correct procedure here; making them smoother using fine grid sandpaper, or use some kind of a paste?
  3. David, my guess is that skillful luthiers such as yourself determine the new holes position on a case by case basis since most scrolls vary slightly. What do you look for, peg spacing, distance to the top and bottom of pegbox, something else?
  4. Thanks, Jacob! I should've made a template with the old holes before putting the bushings. However, the old holes were also drilled after installing new bushings, so we'll never know if they were also at the original location.
  5. In an older thread here, I was told that this is not a good violin with little to no value. The pegs were loose and the pegbox had a crack which eventually caused it to snap in half. Since the instrument isn't worth the cost of having it repaired by a qualified luthier, I decided to see if I can repair it myself. So, I glued the pegbox back together, plugged the holes with maple, and applied some stain. It might not look very good, but this is the best I could do. Anyway, I already purchased a peg hole reamer and a peg shaver. How does one figure out the best placement of the new holes? I
  6. I think the projection at the bridge was 29mm if I remember correctly. The strings are off now because I'm in the process of repairing the cracked pegbox and re-bushing the peg holes.
  7. Yes, it's a cheap old German violin. The luthier refuses to do any corrections because according to him there's nothing wrong with his work. The violin is not really worth spending another couple hundred dollars to have it corrected by another luthier, so I'm thinking of trying to correct the issue myself. It seems that the fingerboard is too thick and needs to be filed down? I don't have the skills to do that, but I have a broken violin with an ebony fingerboard in good condition laying around to use as a donor. I will probably to try replacing the shim myself, but where do I get maple s
  8. I recently had a local luthier replace the fingerboard on one of my violins and also shim it. What do you guys think of his work?
  9. Assuming that neck reset and shim would yield the same result (i.e. neck projection, string angle, etc.), would the sound of a violin differ with using one method over the other?
  10. Thank you so much Blank face!
  11. I just purchased this violin from someone who said that it belonged to his grandfather. There's no label inside. I put the bridge, tailpiece and strings as those were missing. Any information would be helpful. Thanks.
  12. It was opened for a crack repair and this is when they took that picture of the label. I compared the label with others I found online, and this one is a bit different, so I was suspicious if this is a genuine Collin Mezzin violin.
  13. I would like to hear your opinion if this French violin is worth purchasing for $1k. Do you think it is authentic and if yes, is it worth the price? The seller claims that there are no issues with it.
  14. I appreciate very much all of your helpful responses so far. Below are pictures of the (Heberlein) violin in question.
  15. I'm an adult beginner/intermediate violinist and am considering purchasing a violin that will serve me for the rest of my life. Let's say my budget is around $2-3k. All I care is nice sound and proper setup for ease of play. It doesn't have to be pretty, flamed, old, French, etc. Just a good overall instrument that advanced or even professional violinists wouldn't mind playing. Anyway, today I spoke to a luthier (also a violin store owner) who told me that he can take any trade violin, open it up and with a proper set up make it sound as good as any professional level violin. I really don't kn