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  1. The fingerboard is indeed misaligned and shimmied. I'm not sure yet what to do with this violin.
  2. Thanks, Michael! The distance from the top edge of the violin to the front edge of the nut is 130mm. The distance from the top edge of the violin down to the inner notch on the F-hole is 191mm. Fingerboard projection at the centerline of the bridge is 25mm.
  3. Michael, can you, please let me know what to measure? I would like to see if dimensions are OK at least. Thanks.
  4. Thanks for the clarification, Jacob! Beside pegs, bridge, tailpiece, does it need major work to get it in descent playing condition if one doesn't particularly care about the esthetics?
  5. So, it was made in the end of 19th C in Germany? I'm so confused by the label. Was it added later after a repair in US?
  6. Hello, What kind of violin is this? It looks so weird to me. I got it for only $30 bucks and already regret it. Is it same or even worst quality than "the usual" ? Is it worth it at all to have it set up? I would appreciate your thoughts.
  7. Thanks. I appreciate very much all the responses!
  8. So, I take is as this violin is not worth fixing. Do you guys just discard such fiddles?
  9. These are the best photos I could take on the inside. I see the linings but can't tell if they go into the blocks or just stop there.
  10. It looks like the fluting in the scroll goes all the way back. I will have to remove the end button to check for the rest because I can't see anything through the f-holes. Appreciate all the comments so far.
  11. This is quite entertaining. At first I agreed with Jacob and Co., but after reading OP's arguments, how can this not be a real Testore?! After all, those "experts" judge a violin from only 3 pictures. Don't listen to them, Andrew. Trust your guts. Time to make your unbiased decision.
  12. You guys are amazing! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I learned a lot, and if screwing up the holes was the price I had to pay, it was well worth it. Just so you know, I believe that one should support their local luthiers and not try to cheap out on quality work. I have a nicer antique violin on which my local luthier recently did an outstanding job plugging the holes and installing new pegs. The main reason I decided to do it myself on this violin, is because you, in a previous thread, and also my luthier advised that this violin isn't worth the expense by a long shot. Thanks again. I appreciate all the helpful info and critique.
  13. OK, I made a template from another violin and only had to move the A-peg hole to account for the difference in scroll curvature. It worked ok, but the pegs are a bit squeaky and don't feel smooth which makes is harder to fine tune. What's the correct procedure here; making them smoother using fine grid sandpaper, or use some kind of a paste?
  14. David, my guess is that skillful luthiers such as yourself determine the new holes position on a case by case basis since most scrolls vary slightly. What do you look for, peg spacing, distance to the top and bottom of pegbox, something else?
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