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About Danios

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  1. Ok good to hear. I can cover essentially 3 cracks at once with cleats similar in size to those already on there so I’ll do that and just orient them horizontally. Thank you!
  2. Question for the experts. The violin I’m attempting to fix has several cracks along the top that essentially connect to one another almost in a web-like fashion. Attempting to show in photo below. I’ll obviously glue each individually but my question is regarding the cleats. Would you try and cleat each crack individually (tight space) or would you run some longer cleats horizontally along the surface covering several cracks at once? I was thinking of fashioning “parallelogram” cleats similar to the ones already on the instrument but laying them horizontal rather than vertical. The wood generally feels quite fragile in that area so feel like additional support is needed. thanks as always Dan
  3. Wow, great thread. Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
  4. One other point. I need to make a new block anyway because the mortise joint is broken. If I were to go clavette route, should I just make the whole thing out of maple? Will likely do Jacob’s method but will decide after I get the back off.
  5. Got it. I’ll give it a shot. Thank you!
  6. Interesting thank you! My only concern with this approach is there seems to be some missing wood at the base of the button where the purfling should be and if I fill that I worry it won’t be strong enough with just a patch. Should I just make the patch out of maple and basically use that to “fill” the gap as well? Can just recess the button into it a bit
  7. Good morning, I’m trying to figure out the best way to reattach a neck on a violin where the button has also broken off. I have found an example of a similar repair online where the luthier made a new neck block which had a piece of wood sticking out where the button should be towards the neck/scroll to function as a button reinforcement. The neck itself was then trimmed to fit. Is this the best way? If so, should I just use maple for the block to best match the neck? Or better to use two pieces (one for the block out of spruce etc and another of maple for the reinforcement)? Thank you as always. This forum is hugely helpful.
  8. Thank you both! I’ll give it a shot. Much appreciated
  9. Thank you! Can you elaborate on what you mean by doubling? Not familiar with the term
  10. Thanks Jacob. Would you trim the damage off completely to get to an edge of intact wood and then graft on the replacement? There is another small part not pictured that extends into the purfling so I was going to do similar on that and then replace that portion of purfling, reasonable?
  11. Understood. It is this one. Nothing particularly valuable but I’d still like to repair it properly. Both for the instrument’s sake but also for my own learning
  12. How is damage like this typically repaired? Do people use filler (and if so what type)? Or is the process typically to cut out the damage and graft in new wood?
  13. That's fair. Honestly if it's not extensive I'll do much of the repair myself as a fun project. I don't have much violin experience but am an experienced woodworker, build much of my own furniture etc, and interested in learning. If the damage is too extensive and beyond my capabilities, and isn't worth sending to my luthier, at the worst for the price I paid it'll be wall art. I paid about $100 including shipping.