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Bodacious Cowboy

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Everything posted by Bodacious Cowboy

  1. While I understand the interest in this matter from a historical/scholarship point of view, to me it's kind of irrelevant. The important (practical) thing for me is that I can use a single middle period mold to build any model I've wanted to from the Biddulph book, just as accurately as I could with a dedicated one piece mold for each one. Just by packing out the neck/tail blocks as required.
  2. Guess I've been lucky with my guy. My surface ground Stanley planes are easily a match for my Lie Nielsens.
  3. I'd take it to a good machinist with a surface grinder. Life's too short to flatten a #7 by hand .
  4. Thanks for the reply. Do you think the corrosion additive is necessary? It seems very expensive to buy, once the free sample that comes with the wheel runs out.
  5. Charliemaine - Do you use your Tormek diamond wheel dry?
  6. They both have their merits, I'd say. I use both and wouldn't like to be without either.
  7. I agree, and am puzzled why others aren't recommending this approach.
  8. Sometimes I just want to "like" a post.
  9. I've found that old Japanese saw blades make excellent scrapers. I cut them out with tin snips, with generous margins to avoid buckling in the final item, then refine the shape on a disk sander. I like the sander better than a grinding wheel for this task - nice big flat bed to rest the work on.
  10. one of these: humidity controller linked up to 2 baby bottle warmers to generate steam works great to control humidity. They also make a temperature control version that I have linked up to an extractor fan for cooling. Could also be connected to the tubes to switch them off when it gets too hot. They are cheap, accurate enough and seem very reliable. Sorry - missed the part where you were leaving unattended for 6 weeks. My solution wouldn't help you, and I personally wouldn't do that.
  11. Sure - things change with the times. Anyway, I'm just a silly old sausage. Don't pay too much attention to me.
  12. Don't think that's their standard either.
  13. I wouldn't be losing any sleep over such a teensy weensy thing.
  14. They both sound like "Stairway to Heaven" to me.
  15. It’s not uncommon. I hate the idea. Going back to the OP question, I think paper thickness is a matter of personal taste. I don’t like it to be too thick, myself. For sticking in, regular hide glue if done before closing box, liquid hide glue if done after box closed.
  16. Fact or assumption? This is a genuine question, not a challenge. I know you are a smart fellow.
  17. The recipe quoted is 1.2:1 resin:oil unless my calculations are wrong (entirely possible). That’s always been fluid enough for me. Anything more than 1.5:1, different story. And if you do need to add solvent, no fancy process is needed. Just add it to the varnish, heated enough to make it fluid, if necessary. I always use heavily cooked colophony, by the way.
  18. For that resin:oil ratio, I wouldn’t be adding solvent at the making stage. Maybe add a little if necessary before application. I suspect it wouldn’t be.
  19. This is key. So often, beginners waste hours polishing the part of the blade that never touches the wood. No burr, no cigar.
  20. Wise words. When you've taken yourself to the brink of insanity with your blades, you'll probably find the soles of your planes aren't flat, and another can of worms opens. I know some people get a huge kick out of renovating old planes, but it ain't my cup of meat. I have to say that I personally prefer old Stanley planes to the contemporary premium variety, but only because I know a good guy with a surface grinder who will do a wonderful job of flattening soles for beers.
  21. Don't get obsessed with a flawless mirror finish. All that matters is that the blade cuts wood efficiently. Unless you want to make sharpening into a hobby.
  22. Hi Baroquecello Think you have 2 problems here. First, you're trying to "renovate" old plane blades that might be very far from flat, and could take an awful lot of work to flatten (on the non-bevel side). Second, a 1000 grit stone is far too fine for this job. A grinder won't help you with what you're calling the "mirror" side. I'd suggest 80 grit sandpaper glued to a flat glass plate as Shunyata suggests, or you could treat yourself to a coarse diamond plate (eg a 120 grit Atoma). And people will argue until hell freezes over about the pros/cons of going straight from (say) a 1000 to 8000 (or so) grit. Personally I think that's absolutely fine (it's what I do, with excellent results), and I can say with confidence that this isn't your problem. Check out Paul Sellers's YouTubes on sharpening with diamond plates and a strop. Good luck - I don't even want to think about spending 8 hours sharpening a plane blade..
  23. I've tried many different types of gouge over the years, old and new, including many of those mentioned in this thread. My favorites, by a long way, were a set of Japanese scroll gouges bought by a colleague from Dick in Germany over 30 years ago. I'd love to get my hands on a set like that.
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