G,dae

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About G,dae

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  1. Because there’s no one around me and it only cost £70 so not worth a rehair. It hasn’t fallen apart so I just keep using it.
  2. Please guys, I am not asking about shipping. Shipping is not specific to violins. I am asking about cheap bows rehaired more often vs more expensive bows rehaired less often. So far I am not really any the wiser. Thank you Andrew who confirmed that rehairing improves a bow but again this doesn’t really answer the question. I’m guessing it’s one that people just don’t know the answer.
  3. Reluctance to ship is due to cost and reliability of UK shipping. I don’t trust them. I agree, I would love to try them all but there are no shops nearby that sell all of the ones I want to try in one go. This leaves me to try from several shops via mail order. Some stores take full responsibility for shipping both ways, some don’t, which narrows down choices further. The bottom line is the preferred method of buying a bow is out. I get to try a couple from 2 ranges...eg a £100 PH and a £350-£400 Musing...leading back to the original question. I may prefer the more expensive bow initially but after a couple of years would the sound of the expensive bow drop below that of a newly haired £100 bow?
  4. No, I don’t. My current hair has lasted 7 years. I realise it’s going to be tricky to get a true answer as a) some believe that hair doesn’t need to be replaced until it physically wears and, b) some don’t believe bows make any difference to tone anyway.
  5. That’s US dollars/shipping rates. I won’t Consider shipping. I would prefer to drive but as mentioned that won’t be very often.
  6. Bit of a dilemma. Due to having no decent bow rehairers near me I have been looking at buying a £100 PH carbon now that allows you to buy DIY rehairs. The appeal of this is that I can replace the hair every 6 months - 1 year. PH carbon bow PH hank rehair on the flip side I can spend more on a Musing C2, Jon Paul or CodaBow but getting it rehaired will require special trips which won’t be anywhere done near as frequently. Given this scenario which would be the better option? Cheaper bow-more rehairs, more expensive bow-fewer rehairs?
  7. Does this need to be recentred other than for aesthetic reasons? Will it actually play/sound any better or worse if everything else is in the correct position but the fingerboard is off centre??
  8. I'm intrigued by this Musing line but have not found many reviews or opinions on them. Has anyone got any experience with Musing? Their lowest model the C2 starts at £400 which is not exactly cheap for a starting point.
  9. I'd like to know as well. Anyone?
  10. I have a slightly raspy and barking C on the G string. It’s annoying and so far moving the sound post (while making great improvements everywhere else) and cutting the feet and repositioning the bridge hasn’t really resolved it. Slight adjustments in position of the bridge does change it slightly but it’s never really gone. To be honest I’m not sure what it is and what causes it. Regardless I’m willing to play around with cheap tailpieces to see if it can improve it and if any further improvements to the overall tone are achieved then even better.
  11. That looks great but is an American site.
  12. So forget spending money on the Tellar and buy a few cheap tailpieces to experiment with?
  13. The Tellar ones are 115mm long which seem unusually long which is odd as I would have expected a more usual length. I dont mind reworking tailpieces to be honest and have the tools to do so the cheaper ones might be a better option? Everyone talks about how good the Wittners are but is this only considering they have 4 fine tuners attached? Would a traditional tailpiece with no fine tuners be better than a Wittner?
  14. I have a gliga gama that was muddy but is now beginning to sing. I believe that Gamas are pretty decent violins but poorly setup. Mine needed the sound post moving, bridge feet reshaping and tailpiece shortening before I started hearing something that sounded beyond its price point. I still have a muddy C on the G string and a weird metallic but, not in bad way, sounding E on the D string but the resonance and tone everywhere else rivals that of violins I've played costing £1000 to £2000 and I'm still using a naff £50 carbon bow. If I can crack these two notes and upgrade my bow then it'll be one heck of a good sounding violin for the £500 it cost me.
  15. I have struggled to find anything definitive on this. I have read about cheap woods such as ebony being less dense and being less black but the effect it has on sound is just like anything...it depends on the violin. With this in mind is there any good reason to go for more expensive tailpieces over cheap ones? I'm not talking 'bois' tailpieces level as they are completely out of the picture but more the difference between these made by Teller at £24 https://www.thestringzone.co.uk/tulip-pattern-violin-tailpiece-by-j-teller-germany And these for £6 https://www.richtonemusic.co.uk/product/stentor-violin-tailpiece-ebony-4-4/