ffraley

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  1. Ah, the left-hand stringing. The oddly wide looking fingerboard, though that may be an illusion from the horizontal frets. And the pins instead of grooves in the nut. The reverb.com listing was strung conventionally but otherwise like this. I emailed yesterday and asked which side the sound post was on, but he only replied it was sold. Maybe to someone here? Fred F
  2. Maybe that explains the left-handed setup and the long fine tuner screw. I found another that looks like a nicer instrument. I wonder if the violin was made for the "Phonoliszt Violina", or if they were already being made and just used because the geared tuners were simpler in use? https://reverb.com/item/36580445-vintage-fretted-violin-by-franz-halbmeyer-1930s-munchen-germany-rare-with-engraved-silver-peg-head?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=6445914844&utm_content=campaignid=6445914844_adgroupid=82656632368_productpartitionid=803994229915=merchantid=102939949_pr
  3. Bumped into this this morning. Any expert observations? More photos in the ad Fred. F https://cleveland.craigslist.org/msg/d/olmsted-falls-rare-antique-fretted/7224160674.html
  4. A follow-up, it seems the bottom block was indeed cracked. I took the chin rest off and slid a very thin metal spade just into the edge along the seam separation, feeling for the end. About 3-4 cm from the end-pin the separation spread to meet the one on the other side and the treble side half of the end block fell away. The upside, I now feel free to remove the back entirely :-? Fred F
  5. Oh, I'll never be a luthier. I mean no disrespect to them with a DIY project, I will never doubt they could do more and better. I wish I could afford to see what a professional could do with this. Reality check: I'm just going to go at it myself. I have violins to play. I bought another violin for less that the cost of a tank of gas to tinker with. I posted it in a knowledgeable forum to make sure it wasn't valuable. If I goof I have not destroyed an artistic legacy. Gluing a seam, I should be able to handle. A bridge just gets replaced if I screw it up. Resetting a sound post seems
  6. The soundpost blank I have is too thin, it will not fill from the end of the fingerboard to the edge of the pegbox opening. So I will be having that done, and the rest with it. Honestly, the missing nut in the listing photo was why I was interested. It told me it was hide glue, not one of the modern glues used on the newer instruments. But now I am searching for a project fiddle, hide glue, without cracks again. Running out of room. I'd still like to know what all would be involved in restoration as opposed to repair, though. No chance I could put the extra $650 in right now but for knowledge
  7. All replies appreciated jacobsaunders - I get the impression the violin would not be worth the cost of paid repairs when completed, but I will check with a local luthier and price it out before starting anything myself. Could you (or anyone) point me to a link showing prices for one fully restored? What would be involved in restoring as opposed to a setup and repairing the obvious - nut, bridge, and seams? I'm learning a lot in this thread. Baroquecello - I agree with the bow. I have a 4 month old setter pup who in 10 seconds ripped the rubber off a new shoulder rest this morning, so
  8. Thank you, Violadamore! "Markie" was what I needed - a little searching shows tons of information, and an opportunity to learn more about violins. There were two possible good outcomes. This one - It's worth about what I paid, a good piece to practice minor repairs on, and I can then either play it with some sense of satisfaction at my accomplishment or feel no great grief at any failure. Or else, it's worth quite a bit, sell it and buy a very nice upgrade and use the leftover for an instrument and tools to do the first. I suspected the former. I guess I could have accepted the latter, w
  9. I couldn't resist a $29 old violin on Craigslist. Very plain label just says copy of strad, made in Germany. From the fragile old cloth imitation leather on the case I'm guessing ~1900? No blocks, a thin lining looks almost like cardboard. Two 1.5" spots to reglue on the back plate. Tailpiece and endpin are there and seem to fit well, no bridge, soundpost down but there appearing to be pretty fine grained. Missing nut, but a blank is in the case. Bow looks thicker than my "modern" bows, frog moves OK, straight stick. I'm assuming it is a factory German import. Is it worth getting fixed u