Nestorvass

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About Nestorvass

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/29/1997

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greece
  • Interests
    Musical Composition, Obviously violin making, general woodworking, high energy particle physics, quantum physics, artificial intelligence systems, programming

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  1. Thank you, I had already found this article that Mr. @David Burgess wrote in the Strad. It was one of the reasons I thought that maybe there would be a problem with the glue gel time and the ratio as well. So this one really helped and I thank him for that.
  2. Anyway its done now and I really want to move on to the next steps, making the joint was a bit frustrating for me. Its probably that the joints where too cold when I warmed them a little it was fine. Also I checked that they still fitted well after heating them, because I was worried about warping. It was still fine.
  3. UPDATE: I want to thank everyone who helped me make the joint as it should be. I finally made it today, I had to redo the joint many times and every time there would be a gap everywhere. I thought it was my planing technique. Turns out it wasn't instead there was a more obvious reason, as to why the gap was still there. It was the glue. I was using a wrong recipe which should have been weight ratios and instead measured them by volume. Obviously hide glue doesnt have the same density as water and thus volume ratio isnt the same as mass ratio. What happened is the glue would be too thick and i also put a lot. So by the time I'd be ready to rub the two pieces together the glue would have already been gelled and thus the excess would not come out of the joint, creating a significant gap. I changed my recipe to 1:(3 1/2) glue to water w/w (weight : weight) ratio and also warmed my two pieces before gluing them. Not too warm, about 35 degrees celcius. Also i put less glue than i did before as I realised I was putting too much glue before. So when I did the joint properly this time the two pieces almost grabbed instantly I could barely move them. I only managed to move the upper piece a little bit forward and that was it. There was a suction the moment I touched them together. It came out very nice with almost invisible gaps if not completely invisible. I should not that I did something a bit different though this time. I took a tiny 1 thou shaving with a 65 degree effective cutting angle block plane, I did measure it, over the whole surface except from the very ends. If anyone is insterested I can also upload photos from the results.
  4. That is good advice thats kind of what i do when i plane. I put all the pressure in the front handle of the plane a lot of pressure in the middle on both the front and the tote of the plane and at the end of the cut i basically just hold the front for allignment purposes and aply no pressure at all. I only push down the tote at the end of the board
  5. That actually makes a lot of sense to me. Thank you for posting it.
  6. What do you mean by that?
  7. Whatever works for everyone. We overanalyze a subject that has nothing to do with my original post wouldnt you agree?
  8. Anyway I use the same method here are my results (this is curly maple)
  9. 9 minute mark looks pretty good to me. What do you think?
  10. I know you have, whatever works for everyone. But even if it does round the blade its not a big deal to sharpen it 30 seconds and he is back in business probably quicker than if he was lifting the plane at every stroke. As for the skill he is a very skilled craftsman i doubt anyone in the violin making world can use a plane better than he does, no offense but not even you. It has to do with the nature of his professionx a violin maker will a bench planes only for flattening the plates and making the center joint and perhaps a little bit when making the neck. A woodworker like him uses these planes on almost every step in the process of making something. So again no offense at all, I mean it, i respect you, your work and your skills but I think when it comes to bench planes (emphasis on bench planes) he is more experienced than anyone in this forum. So respectfully I will take his word for it over yours.
  11. Go to 8:20 in this video, he explains this exact myth. Even if it did dull the blade which it doesnt by any significant degree since wood is way softer than the steel of the blade, it would still take 30 seconds to sharpen that blade. So in the end its more efficient and less exhausting.
  12. Well you are not wrong, had I not been doing woodworking for a few years using a hand plane chisels etc I believe I would have a much harder using them on violin making. Making a board flat straight and with square edges is one of the most basic woodworking tasks and yet it does require a lot of practice and mistakes to reach a level where you are comfortable to do the same things on a violin plate. Especially when it comes to plane maple. Its funny if you think about it, violin making requires you to use a plane on the easiest wood to plane (spruce) and also one of the most difficult woods (figured maple). There is no in between.
  13. Take a look at 7:30 in this video. Rob probably is the most experienced person I can think of when it comes to planes. He says that planes leave convex surfaces. I am not sure why but I've seen it happen when I plane my own boards. I'll take his word for it.
  14. Generally planes have the tendency to create convex surfaces, meaning a high spot in the middle. I am not sure why but it happens no matter how flat the plane is. Thats why i prefer to hold the plane upside down in the vise and the piece i am planing in my hands. I take a shaving at the beginning it always cuts, as i go to the middle it stops and then it cuts at the end again. To counteract that i pressy lightly at the beginning, really hard as it reaches the middle and then lightly again as i reach the end. If i still have a high spot i will only take shavings in the middle, till the plane stops cutting. This means that the middle will be at the same level as the ends of the board and maybe even a little lower which is optimal for a good suction joint.