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Nestor Vassiliou

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About Nestor Vassiliou

  • Birthday 01/27/1871

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  1. I don't remember mentioning that I don't know how to do joints. I will repeat myself it's not that the joint was not good. most likely it was the excessive stress that was applied by the pin and the wrong allignment hole placement of the template. The joint itself was alright and had no gaps before making the mistake of using a clamp to force the template and the back together.
  2. Yes that's a thread I posted about a year ago, (I didn't work on my workshop for a few months due to obligations with the University). I had actual gaps the first time I did the joint and I had to redo it again. It was spot on the second time. I am convinced that the pin I used in combination with the plywood template, the holes of which didn't allign perfectly with the plate", are what caused this. I used a clamp to close the gap between the template and the backplate (while having a pin in place), this probably exerted too much force and made this happen. Anyway as you said its a good learning experience and if it doesn't work out in the end, "oh well" we live and learn and next time I will be more careful and I will have to use another back for this one. Lesson learned.
  3. Perfect, I will give it a go then if the plate survives the arching and hollowing process.
  4. I see what you mean now. I will do that, though it might be a bit problematic when doing the arching because the plate will not lay flat in the carving cradle, but will have a gap due to the cleat that I will place. I am not sure though how much strength will the lower block provide at the problematic area, when I finish the instrument. Mainly because its end grain to long grain glued joint which is usually not very strong due to the very porous nature of end grain (it absorbs a lot of glue). Unless ofcourse I size the block significantly with some thin hot glue.
  5. Also for the image, yes you are right I copy pasted it instead of uploading it, hopefully it's visible now. Thanks for the tip
  6. Will do, very helpful advice I am not sure I understand the part about the cleats though. I understand that I will put a cleat right after the bottom block before "closing the box" but I didn't understand what you meant by the temporary cleats. The back isn't carved yet if I glue any cleats now, I will have to remove them when doing the arching. Unless that is not what you meant.
  7. I am not sure why the image doesn't appear. I will do what you suggested with gluing the block to make an external clamping surface. Hopefully it won't break until the end of the arching, so that there will be something left to put the cleat on Thank you for the advice I appreciate it!
  8. Thank you for the reply Mr. Sora, (good to hear from you again after I visited Cremona ). I like to think that I took care of all these precautions. I left a small gap in the middle and the ends touched. I didn't work on the plates for many months and they were perfect until I forcefully inserted the pin. There is indeed a gap, because when i inserted a tapered awl into the hole it opens up even more. Not only that but if i try to bend the left part of the plate upwards and the other downwards, I can feel a small "step" at the center joint with my fingers. I was planning to put some thin hot glue in the crack using a syringe with a needle. But then again I am not sure this will work. Is there a chance that this might work, or anything else that I should do? By the way this is how the joint was before inserting the pin yesterday.
  9. I used a rub joint, and there where no gaps at all. I actually had to redo the joint to make sure of that. What might have caused the opening could be the locator pin as I explained to @duane88. Ofcourse we will never know for sure. The only thing that remains is fixing it now and pay more attention next time not to stress the locator pin hole...
  10. I find it unlikely, mainly because I din't use any clamps, but a rub joint instead. So I doubt there where any internal stresses that remained after clamping, which after a while could have cause the joint to open up. Its not impossible though...who knows...
  11. Thank you for the advice, honestly I may have accidentaly caused it with the locator pins. I made a template for the shape of the back and used the locator pins to place it properly on the back. However I the holes on the template didn't allign perfectly with the ones of the back and I had to push the pins inside pretty hard. That could have caused it... Aside from the cleat shouldn't I pour some thin glue into the opening?
  12. I have a slight issue with the center joint of my instrument. The joint has been partially unglued at the bottom (between the two yellow points). I am not exactly sure what caused it. The joint still seems plenty strong (i tested it ofcourse) but i am really worried that the seperation might expand and I need to fix it. Normally I would cut in half and redo the joint but I have already roughly cut the outline and there is not enough material left to redo the joint again and I really want to use this specific back for the instrument. I was thinking to pour some thin hide glue between the opening, but I am struggling to find the balance between, a glue that is thin enough to slip into the opening but also strong enough to hold it in place. Any ideas as to what I should do to fix it are kindly welcome.
  13. Many things could cause the ribs to break. For one low temperature. Opinions vary on what the ideal temperature is, for what its worth i bend mine at around 175 degrees celcius which is a bit on the high side. The most important thing though is that you use a bending strap and almost your whole body weight to bend the ribs. If there are gaps between the strap and the rib, or the rib and the iron, it will almost certainly break. You should clamp down the bending iron very tightly on the workbench so you can put your whole body weight on the strap without risking flying across the whole workshop (though i suppose that would make a good youtube video ). Also a little moisture helps. I dont believe you should soak the ribs, because based on my experience it makes the rib a bit more brittle. You will get better results if you soak a cloth instead and then lightly moisten the surface of the rib with that cloth. And the most important advice I can give is to take your time. You will definetely break a few ribs in the beginning even if you do what I mentioned above. Its part of the learning process and what makes violin making so fun. Good luck
  14. It should be a bit flatter in my opinion, I would aim for a gap of less than 0.2 or 0.1 mm. Especially if you are going to use it for the center joint. You can do that with a granite surface plate and some 120 grit sandpaper. But this will take a while. This is why I prefer a wooden jointer because you can flatten the sole way faster than you would a metal plane, plus you can use other methods to flatten it such as a smoothing plane (this takes some practice).
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