
ANITIX87
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Do you have a website where I can see some more of your stuff? Any chance of getting a recording of this one when it's done?
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Wow, what a beautiful instrument! When do we get a sound clip and a description of the tone?
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Love the back on this latest one.
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I assume you have filed a police report? Depending on the value, I would encourage you to contact media outlets and offer a reward for information that leads to its recovery.
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I tried this and it seems to have eliminated the buzz. Just to confirm I did it correctly: I loosened the string, slid the paper underneath, and re-tuned the instrument.
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I'll try that. Holding the scroll or any of the pegs with my hand makes the buzz go away completely (though I hold the finger grip itself, not the pip). Does that mean it's less likely to be the nut?
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Correct, I will not let a luthier touch the instrument without their permission. They gave the OK for the peg collars to get re-glued but do not want any other work done on it. Hence the question of "can a buzz basically always be identified/fixed, or is this a reason not to buy the violin without sending it back first?" Thanks, I'll give this a shot. How thick should the paper be? Should be be wedged between the string and the fingerboard or wedged between the nut and the string?
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I am on the East Coast and the seller is in California. If needed, I will send the instrument back to them to address it, but I figured I'd ask the question here.
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Update: I had a luthier glue the peg collars back in place, but the buzzing persists (though it goes away if I hold any of the pegs, as if my grip is dampening the vibration). He told me it should be as simple as "filing down the A-string groove at the nut" but that he hesitated to do it on a violin I don't own (it's on trial with me). Is it likely that this is correct? Since the peg collars weren't the issue, is this a reason not to buy in the instrument? Are there any buzzes that can't be fixed?
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I'm in that boat now. I'm looking to upgrade my violin, which I bought in NYC from the maker in 1999 for $8000 (current-day value of $12,500). Recently appraised at $15,000 based on sales of the maker's later work (after he finished his apprenticeship and moved to Cremona). Shops which are willing to consider a trade have offered a range of values from $3,000 to $9,000 (the latter of which fell through because their "vice president didn't think it fit the type of inventory they like to carry").
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You were correct, this is the same maker. James was very quick to respond to my e-mail and provided me a ton of information on the violin!
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No thoughts, I'm not a luthier. I'm just in the process of hunting for my next instrument and one I really like has the pegbox as a separate piece from the neck. Wondering if this is a reason to stay away from it. I think it was made that way, since it's from the year 2000. So if it was made that way, there's no inherent problem with it? I will ask the shop to make sure it wasn't a repair (if it WAS a repair, should I stay away?)
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I wouldn't even think of doing it myself. I was just checking whether this can/would be fixed (and whether it should dissuade me from buying a violin I really like otherwise) or whether it means new pegs.
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Is there anything inherently wrong with a glued pegbox? The violin I keep posting about was made in 2000 and the pegbox is clearly a different piece. Looks like it was made that way, however, because I don't see any other signs of repair.
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I have a violin with boxwood pegs as in this image. The black plastic round accent is loose on 3 of the pegs and is creating a nasty buzzing sound, especially on open A string (and less so on A in different octaves). However, the pegs match the chinrest and tailpiece exactly and I really like the overall look of the violin. Can the pegs be fixed (with glue) or am I looking at needing new pegs? If the latter, how easy will it be to find a replacement that matches the chinrest and tailpiece?