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ANITIX87's Achievements

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  1. Do you have a website where I can see some more of your stuff? Any chance of getting a recording of this one when it's done?
  2. Wow, what a beautiful instrument! When do we get a sound clip and a description of the tone?
  3. I assume you have filed a police report? Depending on the value, I would encourage you to contact media outlets and offer a reward for information that leads to its recovery.
  4. I tried this and it seems to have eliminated the buzz. Just to confirm I did it correctly: I loosened the string, slid the paper underneath, and re-tuned the instrument.
  5. I'll try that. Holding the scroll or any of the pegs with my hand makes the buzz go away completely (though I hold the finger grip itself, not the pip). Does that mean it's less likely to be the nut?
  6. Correct, I will not let a luthier touch the instrument without their permission. They gave the OK for the peg collars to get re-glued but do not want any other work done on it. Hence the question of "can a buzz basically always be identified/fixed, or is this a reason not to buy the violin without sending it back first?" Thanks, I'll give this a shot. How thick should the paper be? Should be be wedged between the string and the fingerboard or wedged between the nut and the string?
  7. I am on the East Coast and the seller is in California. If needed, I will send the instrument back to them to address it, but I figured I'd ask the question here.
  8. Update: I had a luthier glue the peg collars back in place, but the buzzing persists (though it goes away if I hold any of the pegs, as if my grip is dampening the vibration). He told me it should be as simple as "filing down the A-string groove at the nut" but that he hesitated to do it on a violin I don't own (it's on trial with me). Is it likely that this is correct? Since the peg collars weren't the issue, is this a reason not to buy in the instrument? Are there any buzzes that can't be fixed?
  9. I'm in that boat now. I'm looking to upgrade my violin, which I bought in NYC from the maker in 1999 for $8000 (current-day value of $12,500). Recently appraised at $15,000 based on sales of the maker's later work (after he finished his apprenticeship and moved to Cremona). Shops which are willing to consider a trade have offered a range of values from $3,000 to $9,000 (the latter of which fell through because their "vice president didn't think it fit the type of inventory they like to carry").
  10. You were correct, this is the same maker. James was very quick to respond to my e-mail and provided me a ton of information on the violin!
  11. No thoughts, I'm not a luthier. I'm just in the process of hunting for my next instrument and one I really like has the pegbox as a separate piece from the neck. Wondering if this is a reason to stay away from it. I think it was made that way, since it's from the year 2000. So if it was made that way, there's no inherent problem with it? I will ask the shop to make sure it wasn't a repair (if it WAS a repair, should I stay away?)
  12. I wouldn't even think of doing it myself. I was just checking whether this can/would be fixed (and whether it should dissuade me from buying a violin I really like otherwise) or whether it means new pegs.
  13. Is there anything inherently wrong with a glued pegbox? The violin I keep posting about was made in 2000 and the pegbox is clearly a different piece. Looks like it was made that way, however, because I don't see any other signs of repair.
  14. I have a violin with boxwood pegs as in this image. The black plastic round accent is loose on 3 of the pegs and is creating a nasty buzzing sound, especially on open A string (and less so on A in different octaves). However, the pegs match the chinrest and tailpiece exactly and I really like the overall look of the violin. Can the pegs be fixed (with glue) or am I looking at needing new pegs? If the latter, how easy will it be to find a replacement that matches the chinrest and tailpiece?
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