Geigenbauer

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  1. You may want to take a look at this webpage from Helen Michetschläger in the UK. I came across her page when looking for a cornerless design and liked her outline. https://helenviolinmaker.com/instruments/small-violas-for-children-and-students/
  2. I am a big fan of this one (Domino Jointer). I have built boxes, drawers, cabinets, work benches, dining tables and greenhouse benches with it and really like it.
  3. I just wanted to mention that the book "JOANNES BAPTISTA GUADAGNINI FECIT PARMAE SERVIENS C.S.R. - Masterpieces from the 2011 Parma Galleria Nazionale Exhibition" by Scrollavezza & Zanrè has photos and measurements of the Salabue Berta as well.
  4. I bought their 'senior' model in Germany about 12 years ago and it works well for me. Mine has a flat top without the tool well at the back.
  5. I recently built a fairly large UV cabinet with 2 bulbs in each of the four corners. The distance between the bulbs and a violin hanging in the middle of the cabinet is approximately 15-17 inches. All I can say is that it seems to work.
  6. These books (I believe it was the deluxe edition) were sold also at the T2 auction in January. Hammer price was $2200.
  7. Correct. In the link I attached to the MET website they explain that the tailpiece and the fingerboard were patterned after the surviving originals of the 1690 Tuscan-Medici (housed in Florence).
  8. You could also take a look at the "Gould" at the Metropolitan Museum in NY. Here is the link: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/503045 Also two photos I took there last year:
  9. Just to add another option: Slot cutter with exchangeable bearing for desired depth, mounted in a router table.
  10. I have never tried it but came across this varnish on the Kremer homepage before. From the description and the SDS it seems to consist of shellac, sandarac and amber in ethanol. https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/en/mediums-binders-und-glues/products-for-violin-makers/2406/violin-varnish-recipe-of-1710
  11. Now with soft box screen installed and slightly shifted light positions to minimize shadows.
  12. I still had everything set up so I tried to illustrate Michael's point regarding shadows. The first image was taken with the same setup as before for the back. For the second image I removed the front screens from the soft boxes essentially making the lights a bit more focused. The shadows are getting more pronounced I think. This is the light kit I have (unfortunately a bit more expensive now compared to 2018 when I bought it): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C27QB1G/ With soft box screens installed: Without the soft box front screens:
  13. I must admit that I really don't have much experience with violin photography specifically. This was my first real attempt. I have only two lights so I'm not sure whether a third one would help with the flames. Sounds like something worth a try! I had to play with the position of the light to minimize reflections on the surface. The stands were definitely helpful for that. I didn't mount the camera on a tripod and played with the position of the lights and the camera until it looked okay. I ended up with both soft boxes above the violin and pretty "far out" (i.e. almost on the same plane as the violin). I use a Fuji X-T10 with a 35mm (50 mm full frame equivalent) 2.0 lens from Fuji. I read in an older thread that generally a longer focal length would be preferred. So I am sure there is room for improvement! I initially had some issues with reflection from the white table covering showing on the lower back. I ended up putting the violin higher up on two acrylic stands and that helped.
  14. Yes, using two soft boxes which came as a set (the price was for the set of two lights, stands and soft boxes in a bag). Background removed with Photoshop.