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NCLuthierWyatt's Achievements

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  1. Hope everyone is staying safe and keeping busy. With the abundance of free time due to the corona virus lock down, I've acquired a few new repair projects. The question is, with the hyper competitive bidding of sites like ebay, the high fees on many instrument auction houses, and the endless sifting through listings of garbage German or Chinese factory instruments. How do most individual luthiers or shops go about acquiring "profitable" repair projects? I'm sure having a store front and the occasional trade in provides some source of decent instruments in need of some TLC. Any personal stories of interesting instrument acquisitions are welcome, I'm aware most traders or luthiers are not keen on idea of sharing their mystical instrument source
  2. Likely a wood knot given the shape, nothing too worrisome . Test the bow and gently tap the tip of the bow upon your left arm while holding it with your right hand. You should feel a decent amount of vibration transfer through the bow. If it was a pin there'd likely be evidence of a previous crack or repair and a pin might've "deadened" the bow.
  3. I've found back burnishing in order to compress the peg holes to be the best solution. While I have had bad experience with box wood and particularly heart shaped boxwood pegs snapping at the head after customer abuse, there's no reason the pegs should be drastically compressing after proper fitment unless the pegs being used are a $5 ebay special If you're still having issues you could always do what a lot of Chinese manufactures do and fit the pegs so that the tips are recessed within the peg box's smaller peg hole by about 1.5mm so that after a month of use the peg slowly compresses and moves into proper fitment. You could also achieve this by fitting the pegs 1.5mm recess and bringing the pegs to proper fitment with a small amount of peg dope. Hope this helps
  4. Welp, my old juzek peg shaper finally kicked the bucket today. I guess now I have a reason to buy new tools. What peg shaper do you guys recommend? I'm primarily doing setups on older instruments with an occasional new instrument every couple months or so. I've been looking at the adjustable Herdim Multi-peg shaper but I've heard lots of good things about Alberti peg shapers too. Does anyone have any experience or input from using the herdim adjustable peg shaper, I though it'd be good for bushings and a little more versatile Vs the Albertis.
  5. Thank you for the photos. The herdim gouges really look well built.
  6. Hi, Any recommendations on what brand or specific set of gouges/chisels for scroll carving on violins, violas, and cellos you like best. My current set of gouges are all the incorrect sweep and it's getting a little tiresome. I know herdim, dastra, and stubai offer complete sets or individual gouges meant for violin scroll carving but I wasn't sure which to pick up for school this fall at the VMSA. I'm building about a violin every 3 months at home right now so i'm not too concerned about price as I know they'll get used pretty routinely. Hope everyone is staying safe and keeping busy during these trying times:) Thank you!
  7. I agree, another thing we're ignoring by replicating arching is the warping that occurs through age as a result of string tension, humidity changes, and the sound post slowly altering the plates. If I recall correctly North Bennet Street School's violin making program is currently doing a study on this very issue. What's the point in replicating arching on 300 year old instruments if the the arching you're replicating doesn't even match the arching of the instrument of when it was new. If you're trying to replicate the arching of a 300 year old strad for aesthetics and to be able to say it's a 1:1 bench copy I can understand, but if you're aiming for matching sound characteristics, we're probably wasting time and lots and lots of money
  8. Thank you very much guys. I have pretty small hands and I've heard wonders about the Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 so I'm gonna go ahead and place my order!
  9. As an alternative to using CNC machinery have any of you seen the wood router offered by Gemini? Looks like a great option for those wishing to avoid the high initial investment of laser scanning along with having a lot less to go wrong. I work with lots of laser scanning and high end 3D printing in a dental laboratory along with some experience with CNC machinery in producing custom components for cars. Feel free to pick my brain if anyone needs help with figuring out how to export and edit STL files. Here's a demo of it. Not too bad for $3200.
  10. Hi, I'm starting to build my third violin and i'm looking to pick up a quality block plane for flattening the rib garlands and squaring corner blocks. Would the apron plane from Vertias or the Violin Makers Plane offered by Lie-Nelsen be ideal for this or would a slightly larger low-angle block plane from the likes of wood-river, veritas, or lie-neilsen be more ideal? Just wanted some input from people with more experience before I pull the trigger on buying a new one. Any input on the pros and cons of each brand's block plane is appreciated. Thank you very much guys!
  11. Thank you for all the feedback guys! Lots of new ideas and tools to try giving a shot. I will give a few of the aforementioned ideas a shot and figure out which works best for me.
  12. Hi, I am in the process of building my first violin using an inner mold and would like to use allignment pins for finishing the edge work before beginning thicknessing. I've heard of a variety of different materials being used for allignment pins however I would like to use ebony. Are there any places where I could find ebony pins? If not, how would I go about making them? Any advice or good alternatives to ebony pins would be great! Thank you.
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