murray kuun

What then is the ideal temperature to set my bending iron to for bending violin sides?

I have not been here for years and I don't often make violins, but I'm re visiting making. I've thicknessed the sides to about 1,4mm, is that ideal for deep curly maple? Then what is the correct temperature to bend at? I'm really struggling with breakage, in the old days I don't remember having such trouble. Thanks, Murray Kuun

Please forgive me if I have posted this before, I cannot find a record. I started making (traditional) violins in the 1990s, after about 2 or 3 dozen I got bored, being a designer (industrial) for 50 years, I decided to do my own thing (with so many violin makers around, who was going to buy mine anyway?). The designed and made the first fiolin 3 years ago (the red one in the video). The blue one is the newest, made with a korina belly as an experiment (it has been successful with acoustic guitars). )

Just completed my second fiolin in #veryblue. I have nothing against traditional violins, in fact, they still produce my favourite music. Just my take on a 21st century violin, not an attack on traditionalism. This model has stock standard geometry and cubic capacity and it is built in the traditional way. The main difference is only 2 corner blocks compared to 4 - I like what the extra freedom does for the sound.

The shanks are thinner than 4/4 pegs

3/4 tuning pegs are a better visual match for my new fiolin, than full sized ones. Would the slightly smaller pegs be too difficult to turn? In case you were wondering, I have made this model before and am more than happy with sound quality - and yes I know, most violin makers would poo poo it but never the less, it works for me (and the odd client). Geometry is absolutely standard.

I've always fitted to top before the back. I cannot remember why, must be the old (roneo'd) book I used in the beginning (before youtube). Is that the accepted way or does it not matter? I ask because one of the luthiers I follow on IG, fits the back first.

Thanks

Thanks, I had made about 25 violins back then and never had this problem. Since this post I moved from my proper bending iron to a smaller diameter steel pipe heated with a heat gun and seemed to get better results. I do use a strap and apply water with a cloth. I'm now watching the video as recommended by another respondent ....

It has been many years since I made a violin. I switched to, and still make, guitars (for a living) but I felt like making a violin based on a new design (designed around ellipses). I got some really nice AAA wood from Switzerland but I'm having severe bending/breaking problems - far worse that when I started 20 years ago. Of the 4 strips I originally bought, only 1 remains unbroken. What could I be doing wrong?

Some may be interested to hear my F1olin on her first ever outing with Kristel Birkholz. Here with Rory Gaddin on one of my guitars, Thin Lizzy

When I learned violin making 15-20 years ago, it was taboo using French Polish, what is the feeling nowadays? I am doing my first ever FP application on an archtop I am making. This is after about 5 coats.

I do have a cnc. It would be quite lightweight actually.

I still have to sort out some design issues but I'm hoping to do this electric soon.

Will you look at that, jolly nice.