zdalton13

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About zdalton13

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  1. I definitely not selling this one. I'll take your advice and add cleats and be more careful in the future.
  2. The length of the gap is about 55mm. As far as I can tell a shaving across the seam tears along the grain and not at the seam. I don't know if this makes any difference, but the plate flexes fine in that area.
  3. Interesting. Is this considered as strong as cleats?
  4. I cannot close the gap. I suspect there is a layer of glue between the two halves, as the light does not shine through completely.
  5. While thicknessing my top plate, I noticed if I hold the plate up to the light I can see a tiny bit of light peeking through the center seam near the top. I can't notice a gap when looking at the plate just by eye though. I am thinking about adding cleats running the length of the center seam. Would this be sufficient or should I do something else instead?
  6. Thanks for the replies I've been away from the internet for a while. I was worried about thinning the glue too much but after reading all these suggesting I will do as everyone suggested.
  7. While sawing out a top plate, the blade broke and created a split one one of the corners. I was thinking of using titebond to repair it, but I am concerned it would leave an ugly stain and I think the crack is too small to get hide glue into it. Any thoughts?
  8. I just purchased a new set of B&C boxwood fitting and when handling them I find they turn my fingers purple. I know this is common with pernambuco but has anyone seen this with boxwood before?
  9. Not sure what you're talking about. I squared my kun up to the top plate that I'm working on and it fit just fine. Btw, I posted the measurements a page back.
  10. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I didn't think of laminating the posters. That's a great idea.
  11. I agree. I should've taken more time to plan out and then I wouldn't have had such an issue as this. Nevertheless, it is too late now. I will try to plan ahead better next time.
  12. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I measure the distance from the outer edge of the purfling to the edge of the violin at 4mm on the messiah. Therefore, If my ribs are 1.2mm and my overhang is 2.5mm, giving a total distance of 3.7mm, it seems to me that the mould should be based off of the outer edge of the purfling. I'm not trying to be nit-picky. I just want to avoid this mistake in the future.
  13. Are you saying I shouldn't be using the outer edge of the purfling to draw my pattern?
  14. Also, I did draw the mould based on the outline of the purfling. Is this not a good idea? My new mould measures 160mm at upper,102mm middle, 200mm lower based off of the purfling.
  15. I'm getting all my measurements from the strad poster. 2mm doesn't actually seem like that much, but when I compare it to the poster it seems to be about 4mm off? Can anyone speak to the accuracy of the posters?