zdalton13

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About zdalton13

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  1. Not sure what you're talking about. I squared my kun up to the top plate that I'm working on and it fit just fine. Btw, I posted the measurements a page back.
  2. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I didn't think of laminating the posters. That's a great idea.
  3. I agree. I should've taken more time to plan out and then I wouldn't have had such an issue as this. Nevertheless, it is too late now. I will try to plan ahead better next time.
  4. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I measure the distance from the outer edge of the purfling to the edge of the violin at 4mm on the messiah. Therefore, If my ribs are 1.2mm and my overhang is 2.5mm, giving a total distance of 3.7mm, it seems to me that the mould should be based off of the outer edge of the purfling. I'm not trying to be nit-picky. I just want to avoid this mistake in the future.
  5. Are you saying I shouldn't be using the outer edge of the purfling to draw my pattern?
  6. Also, I did draw the mould based on the outline of the purfling. Is this not a good idea? My new mould measures 160mm at upper,102mm middle, 200mm lower based off of the purfling.
  7. I'm getting all my measurements from the strad poster. 2mm doesn't actually seem like that much, but when I compare it to the poster it seems to be about 4mm off? Can anyone speak to the accuracy of the posters?
  8. I'm not confident in my ability to do violin surgery so, I'm just going to take it as a lesson and, as many people here have stated, get it done. Fingers crossed it doesn't sound horrible.
  9. Thanks for all the posts, really. I'm not concerned so much as what the instrument looks like, but how it will sound. I think it would be disappointing if it ended up sounding "bad" and there was something I could've done to change that. That being said, I don't expect it to sound amazing as a first violin and what "good tone" even means is completely subjective. Anyway, I would like it to at least reflect the effort put into it. Here are the measurements taken from the ribs: Upper Bout at widest: 165mm C Bout at narrowest: 106mm Lower Bout at widest: 210mm Length: 352.5
  10. I'd have to agree with JohnCockurn. Knowing the dimensions are not right is going to drive me nuts. However, in the interest of progressing, I think I'm going to continue with making this one while working a few steps behind on #2. That way I can immediately apply what I learned with #1 onto #2. I've already made a bunch of mistakes on this and the perfectionist in me already wants to start all over again. I already have some extra rib stock and here goes mould #2.
  11. Christopher, It sounds like you've come across something like this before. It is my understanding that if I raise the overstand, that I would end up with a gap between the root and the button. How should I compensate for this? Also would this not also change the elevation at the bridge?
  12. I used a half template traced from the purling of the top plate taken from the Strad poster. I guess my mistake was in using a half template, I must have somehow not lined it up correct when I flipped it to trace the other side. Should I really restart with this one?
  13. Yes, the measurements are off by 4-5mm across the whole width of the rib structure but the length is fine. The measurements across the width are closer to a del Gesu but with the length of a Strad. The mould is 1/2" birch ply. That procedure sounds pretty risky. Can you elaborate on how to remove the block from the ribs?
  14. Hello, everyone. I just finished up the rib structure for my first violin. I am using the messiah as a template and I was just double checking everything on the ribs when I realized that my mould is 4-5mm too wide. I don't know how I missed this. I don't think there is anyway to fix this, but I am really worried about how this will change the tone of the instrument. Thoughts?
  15. Thanks for all the help. Here is what I finally did: I found a dovetail saw was able to grab ahold of the glue joint and easily follow it all the way down. After tearing my hair out for 2 hours trying to plane one board at a time, the joint kept getting worse so I finally took Urban Luthier's advice and planed both boards together and finally got a good glue joint. I made the glue slightly thinner this time and I am happy so say the join it almost completely invisible. However, I am going to have to be extremely careful from here on out as the thickness of the board at the glue joint is only 18.5mm after all my crazy planing. I know it's a learning process and I've got hundreds of miles to go.