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Mad picker

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  1. It's alright! Thanks for the suggestion! I might try that
  2. Thanks for the thread! And hope your arm's alright now! The thin spots I think get down to 2mm. Enough to let some light through, but not thin enough to be easily deformed when pressed on.
  3. And you know for a fact that I even own a router bit? Since it's apparent I need to lay out my entire method, here you guys go: When I got the wedge of wood from the website, I planed the glue surface flat using a jointer planer. Then, after they were glued together, I used an electric hand plane to remove a lot of the excess wood making sure to not come close to the final shape with a power tool like that. Then, switching to using a block plane and a wide chisel I slowly crept to the final dimensions on the outside. Then, when I was satisfied with the outside, I set up the drill press with a drill bit and wood pin in the vice. I made sure to set the depth stop to leave enough wood to follow the dimensions given by Alan Golblatt found online. Then, the top was drilled out. Again each time the top was to get thinner, I reset the depth stop, making sure to double check the measurements. Once the top inside was entirely drilled out, I began using a beater chisel and a rubber mallet to chip away the excess wood inside. I made sure to follow the curvature of the top, not to go against the grain. I also made sure to leave enough wood remaining that the chisel would not bite too deep. Unfortunately there is one section (seen in picture 2 of the original post) where the chisel followed a bit of grain run-out and tore away a bit too much. Once the majority of the excess wood was removed, I began using my gouge to carve down to the drill bit marks. I made sure to not go too deep, but unfortunately I let my mind wander on one tiny patch, which led to one section being thin. But, using a combination of the gouge, finger plane, and orbital sander, I got the top thinned to the drill bit marks, no more. I'm sorry I didn't post all this in the first post, but I didn't think it necessary for my questions. But I wasn't asking for advice on my method, I was asking for advice on how to fix a thin patch on this top.
  4. I really did set it right. Just as I was smoothing it out,/chipping out the wood, I didn't pay attention to how deep the gouge was going, and accidentally took off too much in just a few areas.
  5. That's actually kinda what I did. I made a pin out of western red cedar, and set the stop on the drill press to give me the right thickness. So I do know the general thickness, and am planning on making the callipers. The top does feel stiff, but does flex some and ring well when tapped. (so it's not a brick).
  6. Those are rather clever callipers, I've been actually wondering about making some!
  7. I know generally what the thickness is, using the depth stop on the drill press. It's just in the thin area - where the light radiated through - I didn't know what that got down to. My bad for not communicating that properly! I followed the dimensions I found online from Alan Golblatt, so it's not all ridiculous thin or thick (I think 6.5 in the center, down to 4 on the upper/lower bouts) There were just a couple patches here and there that I accidentally gouged too thin, and was wondering how to go about fixing those.
  8. Thanks for the advice! I'll try cutting out the pockets and adding in new wood. And about the Saxon makers, could you point me to articles/books? I'll definitely check that out.
  9. So I'm making a cello, and nearing done with gouging out the interior. But, I ran into a couple problems as I was going. First, I found a couple sap pockets in the top. They're not too big, but would they need stabilizing? The wood is Sitka spruce aged over 20 years. Second problem, as I was chipping out the interior, the gouge followed a grain line and accidentally tore out a chunk. Thankfully it didn't come through, but what should I do to make it better? Third, as I was working on it, the top for a little thin in some areas, thin enough to see light through. The biggest thin patch is about 2 square inches (so not the whole top!). Edit: I do know the thickness of the top, using a drill press and setting the depth stop. And I have been following the dimensions I found online by Alan Golblatt. I will be making callipers to find the dimensions of exact points, but I do know the current thickness overall. So, is there any way to fix those few thin areas? Thanks for any help! Since this is my third cello, I'm not expecting master quality. I am still learning, and trying to get better.
  10. I think it depends a bit. A fiddler could theoretically play the notes, but it seems classical music is more than the right notes (proper bow hold, proper violin, right attire, good musical interpretation, etc.). It all comes down to the purpose of playing. Classical music is meant to be played as a group, where there can't be any individualism (aside from maybe the soloist). Each member has to work precisely with everyone else, otherwise it sounds like a train wreck. Whereas trad/folk music is about improv, solos, and standing out in your proper time. They're both just different mentalities.
  11. Haven't done it in a long time, and not very good at it, but I like a good hammer and anvil
  12. Here's my lil bench (for when I'm not using the saw table)
  13. I tend to do both at the same time. If there a glue joint drying, I'll work on the other half. But I'm just an amature maker, so
  14. If you can't find mountain mahogany, Osage orange could work (it's not as hard, but readily available).
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