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Ron Teplitz

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  1. What glue works to glue a Sonowood fingerboard to a violin neck?
  2. Bought a Sonowood set: fingerboard/nut/saddle. Glued the fingerboard on temporary-like while fitting the neck into the body (admittedly with liquid hide glue); it popped off twice. The saddle blank was only 28 mm long; should be more like 32 or 36. Shaping the saddle was really a lot of work. It's much more difficult to work than ebony; very dense, a bit more like a synthetic material than wood. Haven't done much work on the fingerboard yet. It's so hard, it will probably outlast ebony. Suggestions for a type of glue that would work? The manufacturer's web page doesn't seem to say anything about that.
  3. Thanks for the tip, Brad. Thanks for the info, gents.
  4. International Violin sells Micromesh sheets in various grits.
  5. It's almost impossible to get 190 in California. Will try getting the "hand sanitizer grade" stuff!
  6. This is for final polish on the fiddles I've made and varnished. I'd hesitate to use just straight alcohol, but I've heard of this usage. Would work if used judiciously, I suppose.
  7. The Everclear bottle says it's 60% alcohol, so perhaps it's diluted too much by other stuff. If that's the problem, what would be better?
  8. I saw a recommendation for a french polish recipe: 1/2 alcohol (good stuff, not the "hardware store stuff"), 1/2 clear spirit varnish, and a little oil on the polish cloth. I mixed 1 oz Everclear with 1 oz clear spirit, the stuff from International Violin; the varnish curdled and turned into a white blob. What does this mean? Wrong ingredients? Suggestions?
  9. An article in the October 2021 issue of The Strad recommended UV-A LED lights, https://store.waveformlighting.com/collections/led-strips/products/real-uv-led-strip-lights?variant=12339996721254. Does anyone know how many meters of LED strip they used in their testing?
  10. Hmmm... OK, you can introduce bubbles by stirring; that would be bad. I've experienced that. But if you thin with turpentine, how do you mix the varnish and turp without stirring?
  11. I'm interested in Joe Robson's varnishes, have previously used only Joha standard. Now trying to figure out what to get. The Alizarin Color Concentrate Varnishes can be used by themselves or added to other varnishes, right? When you add Aged Wood Colors to Clear Varnishes, do you have to add something like rosemary oil/spike oil/Linox to extend working time? How do the Alizarin Color Concentrate Varnishes, the Clear Varnishes, and the Greek Pitch Varnishes differ in drying time, hardness, etc? (The Stradivari Cochineal isn't in my current budget.) Does Joe provide documentation on usage beyond what's on his web page? I'm not going to make it to his workshop.
  12. Happy New Year! This forum continues to be a great source of information. Thanks to all.
  13. Michael, you confirm what I feared. Will do those scroll checks. Really enjoyed your appearance on "The Repair Shop" and have learned a lot from your paper on varnishing.
  14. Received the Cremona Books poster of the Cremonese. It has 100%-scale photos that show a lot of detail. Though it doesn't have arching guides, the photos show at least the longitudinal arching well. In particular, the long. belly arching in the photo doesn't match the long. arching guide from the Academia Cremonensis pattern set. I expected to see a fairly straight section in the middle, and the poster shows that. The Acad. Crem. set long. arching is higher and more curved in the middle. Any opinions on the accuracy of the arching templates in the Academia Cremonensis set?
  15. Thanks! That might be good to supplement the Academia Cremonensis pattern set, which does have arching guides. The Cremonese was built on the G form. I looked for Strad posters of other fiddles from the G form and didn't find any.
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