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  1. From what I read on the web site master bows are marked * Lothar Seifert * and workshop bows W Seifert. I don't see any marked * L Seifert* .
  2. Thanks to both Brad and Jacob you have given me great information. I now have a much clearer plan on what needs to be done. Now the hard part- doing it. Thanks again.
  3. I think the repair will now involve taking the button off if I can get it apart successfully regluing and reinforcing with a patch(looks like it was broken off and poorly reattached). I was thinking if I can't get the button apart to re glue I could remove material from the current button as is and make it flat(it is glued with an angle back toward the top) and put a facial piece of matching wood on the outside and blend this in to the purfling region and also reinforce the back. I would then use an ebony crown to conceal the repairs. Ideas are welcome, thanks.
  4. Block removed neck out with no issues. I plan to drill the dowel out of the neck and remove the screw then repair with a plug matching the grain. Now that the inside of the button is exposed it looks like it would need reinforcement . What do you think about this? The dark section looks like it broke through to the purfling.
  5. I measured the pegbox and width at the nut again just to make sure using calipers and the nut width is 24mm and the widest part of the pegbox is 26mm. Must be my camera angle which makes the pegbox look larger.
  6. Thanks for the information. I'm not supper concerned about the price especially if the instrument sounds good. I plan to play it awhile anyway. Maybe if I keep it another 10 years it will be worth at least a little more than I paid for it . I have several instruments by decent older American makers and enjoy having them and feel they are very good value especially when you can get them at bargain prices(less than auction sales.) I think they are more interesting than better quality Chinese violins( I have a few of these as well). I see a number of dealers listing American made violins by less known makers and asking as much $5-6000.00 or more in some cases so I guess they think they are worth something. But as you stated some things are hard to sell.
  7. Here are some pictures after I took the top off.
  8. I'm sure you are right about that. I know there has been some discussion about how cracks can impact value so I was curious about how button repairs and retouching affect value. I would assume a well done graft would not impact the value. I know repairs can affect how easy or difficult it is to sell especially if noticeable or poorly done. I plan to keep and play this instrument if it sounds good to me. However I'm not getting any younger and some day I'm sure it will be sold.
  9. Regarding value how would this be impacted if this violin or any similarly valued violin(I understand there are different opinions on the value of this violin) is properly repaired ?
  10. Jacob, I don't disagree but one is advertised at Frank's Violinos in South America for $8000.00 if I calculated the exchange rate correctly. Also according to one individual on they purchased one from Ifshin Violins in 2017 for $9000.00. I would assume it was in top condition. I have no idea why people have some violins by this maker priced at this level other than he has a reputation for good sound(I know violins aren't priced based on sound). There are a number of older American violins by what are considered good makers selling or advertised in the $7-10,000.00 range or more that not too many years ago would have been much less. So how does one price antique violins ? I know this has been discussed many times before. Reputation ,workmanship, rarity,not sound, someone considered an expert says it's good,etc.
  11. Here are hopefully some improved photos. Inside will come later.
  12. I will take better pictures I rushed those because I was mostly interested in the repair process. I would like opinions on the violin origins and will post when I disassemble so I can also show the interior work as well as better exterior shots.Thanks
  13. Jacob the top nut area is 24mm. There is a small hole on the inside of the block but I can't be sure if it is a screw tip or not. I'm sure I can figure more out when I disassemble it in the net day or so when I have more time.
  14. The features that you mentioned Blank face are not there . The rib is two piece with the flames slanting in different directions at the joint. There is no Mittenwald notch. The linings run continuous over the corner blocks on the outside of them. All the photos I have seen look fairly similar to the violin I have. I know that doesn't mean he didn't buy the violin in the white somewhere but he is fairly consistent. There was a discussion on another violin blog about these violins and I believe Michael Darton commented on them favorably about the sound and the unusual label that maker uses. Mine has the picture label and he inscribed his name on the back. I find it interesting the discussion regarding several American makers buying violins in the white and finishing them very interesting. Would be good if we could clarify this more and how it impacts the value.It appears that older violins by some American makers have definitely gone up in price. I appreciate all the comments.
  15. In person the varnish matches the rest of the instrument well and has the same crazing. Not sure about the style but definitely not a commercial scroll.