GlenV

Members
  • Content Count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About GlenV

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northwestern Pennsylvania

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here is my contribution to this post: And here's what is found where a label had previously been fixed: The violin is beautiful and the sound is amazing. It would seem that this might also be one of his earlier violins. I am blessed to be able to play it nearly everyday. Any information anyone might have on this maker or where he fits in with the rest of the family would be appreciated. I'm not as worried about the value of the violin -- I'm trying to learn its history. Thanks! Glen
  2. I recently received a violin that needed some repairs. The place where a label is usually attached showed only remnants of the paper -- nothing more than part of one letter. When I removed the top plate, I found this hand-written in pencil on the underside of the top late, under the bass-side upper bout: I am trying to learn what I can about Julius Heberlein. I believe he was born in 1866. Any information would be really appreciated. Glen
  3. Thanks, FoxMitchell! Here's a simple sound clip, Rue. As everyone always says, ignore the poor playing. IMG_0481.mp4
  4. Thanks! I figure that even Stradivari had a first violin.
  5. I'm working on that. :-)
  6. After doing various woodworking projects over the last 10 years, I got the itch to make my first violin. I used the process outlined on MakingTheViolin.com, guidance I could find on Maestronet.com and from several local woodworkers I know. Violin Name: "Factora" (but I am calling her "MaryLou") Top: Scrap Pine (free) Back: Scrap Cherry (free) Neck: Scrap Cherry (free) Fingerboard: Scrap Hard Maple Gym Floor (free) purfling: made my own from scrap walnut-maple-walnut (free) (more money in the glue and finish than they entire violin) Now I play the violin... That I made... (Priceless) Changes for next time: Use Spruce, Figured Maple and Ebony More detail on the scroll More even overhang on the top and back plates purfling details Thanks for looking. GlenV
  7. I've just finished my first violin. After reading this and other posts for the amateur, I used thinned commercial shellac and tinted the progressive coats to get the color I want. The violin is much shinier than I'd like. And I'm at a loss of what to do to conclude the finishing process. Should my last steps be to buff with 0000 steel wool or 2000 grit sandpaper and rub in oil Buff with 0000 steel wool or 2000 grit sandpaper and add one more coat of shellac Buff (as described above) and polish with wax leave it alone it seems like I should do one more before I string it up. Any suggestions? Thanks. GlenV
  8. Your final coat of shellac and baby oil - do you rub WITH the grain or CIRCULAR? Thanks. GlenV
  9. So is this a refinished violin?
  10. Perfect timing! This is the next step for my first violin build. i never thought about using an inner tube. Would a rubber band do the same thing for the same reasons? Also, how much do you shape the chinrest to fit the contour of the violin face, or do you keep the feet of the chinrest flat and allow the cork or rubber to absorbs the difference? Thanks. GlenV
  11. With so many different methods, it's hard to know where a good place is to start on my first violin - built entirely from scratch. Thanks to everyone for their insight.
  12. In all the posts I've read with advice for us beginners, THIS is the best explanation. Start simple and go from there. Thank you! glen
  13. Do you use a different ground for the spruce top than for the maple back, sides, and neck? It would seem that the soft spruce would respond differently to the "finishing process" than the harder maple.