Shunyata

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  1. No offense intended with the honorific, Edi. I am virtually certain the neck on a violin drops due to flexure in the body, not bending of the neck. You can convince yourself by putting a neck in a vice and hanging a 15lb weight on it, which is about the maximum bending moment you will ever generate with very high tension strings. You won't see any discernible deflection, especially with the fingerboard on. On the other hand, have at it if you enjoy the fitting work. You probably aren't hurting anything.
  2. Totally agree with Mr Malinaric - positioning of reinforcement bar on a violin is right where the natural bending moment is centered so there will be little benefit. The ebony fingerboard, on the other hand, is well positioned to absorb a lot of compression load and move the bending moment center deep within the neck, which is exactly what you want. Of course that is an engineering view and should be dismissed out of hand - or so I have been advised. As a craftsman I would simply note that my 100yr+ instruments with original necks have no obvious warping, twisting or disfigurement. Don't fix what ain't broke.
  3. Shunyata

    Workbench

    I know that you have in mind to purchase a bench, but you are far better off building one. You get better construction and utility. Mine is modeled after this... https://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/knockdown-english-workbench/ You don't need a vice if you have a bench with an apron - dogs and a crochet do the trick. Frankly, compared to a vice, this arrangement is far easier and quicker to manipulate, and is equally effective. The linked bench above is a real tank- wont budge under any load. I reversed some of the design because I am a leftie.
  4. I dont believe in the same naive approach that you dont believe in. However, violin making is not artistic whimsy - you will find no Picasso, Dali, or Magrite of instrument making. I have yet to meet a skilled craftsman who doesn't apply engineering problem solving and principles to his work. Any skilled maker can describe his aims and evaluations during the process, even if his methods require creativity and judgement.
  5. Hopefully no one made a cello from sycamore. That stuff is really toxic if you breathe it in!
  6. I have done some resawingof hardwood logs. You will want to nail a "cradle" into the log so that it does not rock on you as you cut wood away. Plan ahead where you will cut through the cradle so you do not put nails there. And plan how the log will rest after each cut so that it is well supported throughout the cutting process. Cuts will not be as straight as you would like so cut thick by at least 3/16ths, unless you have a beast of a bandsaw. I have a 14" with serious power and wouldn't be overly confident with that piece. My dad's 18" would handle it like butter!
  7. Shunyata

    neck back ribs

    Absolutely not an expert on this, but I think I have to agree with Jezzupe. You want vibration in the body, and less being transmitted elsewhere. A rigid neck could be part of limiting this extraneous vibration.
  8. ""Also, a violin neck is not a 'tenon' by any definition I can find. Tenons project, they have shoulders from wood being cut away from the main body." A tenon does not technically need to be collared the way you describe, although is often in in cabinetry to prevent wracking of frames. The tenon heel is so large on a violin neck that it resists wracking naturally without collaring.
  9. The neck fit is technically a blind mortise and tenon joint. The fact that it is a triangular tenon is irrelevant. Ask any cabinet maker. (You can ask my father if you dont know one yourself.) A triangular tenon offer no material increase in strength over a straight tenon, other than a slight increase in glue surface. A true dovetail joint would also look like a dovetail when viewed from above (flared outward) and the neck could only be set by sliding the neck down into the top block. Since the joint is mechanically locked in place, you would have a nearly impossible time removing it after gluing. This is why cabinet makers use this joint for drawer faces. If you used a strong wood for the top block, the mechanical locking means you would need no glue except at the button. I have thought of trying this joint, but I think traditional top block materials are too weak to warrant a such a mechanically strong joint. Also rather difficult to implement on a triangular tenon.
  10. All of this discussion about harmonics ignores the fact that most of the "overtones" come from induced vibration of the body, not the strings. Because of the transmission and dampening characteristics of the body, the frequency behaviors are much more complex and sophisticated than this conversation suggests. Strings are very important, but a small part of the picture. Imagining idealized string behavior isn't helpful.
  11. "Sympathetic tones" might be a better description of what happens. You introduce a forcing signal when you draw the bow. This vibration induces a wide range of responses from the strings and mechanical structure of the violin. This response is heavily influenced by both construction and technique. Taken together these effects produce a "chorus" that is perceived as color and projection. Understanding what we like in a chorus is a very good question.
  12. My thought was seal with gypsum and ground with colophony. I hadn't though of doing it in one step.
  13. Would you ever use both of these together for ground and sealer? Or would this be like belt and suspenders. I hope the question doesnt seem too ignorant.
  14. The ribs are consistently square everywhere. Means a lot of fine tuning on the bending for such long pieces. On the long arcs I bend slightly too sharp, then use the iron to relax them into proper shape, inch by inch. Self taught so would love to hear the right way to do it. I hate it when the top and bottom plates wind up being slightly different outlines because the ribs were off.
  15. Lower bouts glued in. The bending iron fix from yesterday held. A little unconventional clamping method, but it allows me to exactly fit the block shape and allows me to use a small wedge to ensure a tight glue at the points. Comment away if something seems whacky!