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xraymymind's Achievements

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  1. But as I say, for knives, I have only ever sharpened with a flat bevel. My knives are Japanese.
  2. Cheers Jim! Like you, I also use a Sharpening Jig (an Eclipse guide) for my Micro-bevels. I have heard of people avoiding Micro-bevels on their plane irons & chisels as they are 'unrepeatable'. But this only applies if one sharpens freehand. If one uses a jig, you can even have two Micro-bevels, which are perfectly repeatable, every time. David Charlesworth (cabinet-maker and teacher) grinds his Plane blades at 25°, raises a wire edge on a 1,000 grit stone at 33°, and polishes the edge on a 8,000 grit stone at 35°. This results in a mightily sharp edge.
  3. I thought it would be interesting to have a discussion about knife sharpening. Personally, I sharpen my knives with a slightly curved edge. However, I've never been quite sure whether to put a micro-bevel on knives or not. I grind my Plane blades & Chisels with a 25° bevel, and then hone with a 30° microbevel. On my knives (at present), I have a single bevel. But I always wonder whether it might be better to put a slightly raised microbevel on these too - it'd certainly save time when I re-sharpen them. It would be interesting to hear what works for YOU in regards to knife sharpening, and whether you sharpen knives with a single flat bevel, or with a raised microbevel.
  4. Thanks all for the advice so far! I wonder if anybody has experience with these Kogatana knives vs. the old Gold steel German knives. How do they differ? I'd imagine the Gold steel would be much harder, given that it was HSS.
  5. Any more comments on the Kogatana Deluxe knives?
  6. Dear all Maestronetters. I would like to buy a Kogatana knife. Howard Core & Dictum sell them. The standard Kogatanas are around €20. Then there is a deluxe version at €50 (Dictum) or $80 (Howard Core). Does anybody here have the Deluxe version, and are they really worth all that much extra? I know Japanese knives have a bit of a reputation for chipping. Do the deluxe versions chip less, and hold an edge better? They seem an awful lot more expensive...
  7. Wow! great darkness. How long did you cook it for to achieve that?
  8. Hello folks, I am looking to buy some Colophony for varnish making (summertime is coming!), and I notice Kremer only have one type of Colophony available (asides from their very dark brown stuff). Here is the link to it: https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/en/shop/mediums-binders-glues/60300-colophony-extra-light.html It looks to be very light in colour. Does anyone reading this have experience with this colophony, if so, does it turn to a dark colour well, once cooked? All the best.
  9. Hello all, I need to order some new hide glue. In the past I have used 192 High clarity, and been quite happy with it. But I have heard of many other makers using stronger gram strengths - such as 251 or 315. Might I ask for a bit of advice as to what gram strength you (the reader!) might use, and why? It would be especially interesting to hear from anybody who has experience of both 192 and 315 gram strengths... Which do you prefer, and why? All the best.
  10. I am still looking for W. Fulton's 'Formulation Manual', as pictured here... If anyone has a copy, PLEASE PM me. Even if it's not for sale, I would greatly appreciate to see a scan/pictures of some of the contents.
  11. I had been under the impression that Larch may make a slower drying, and softer Varnish than Canada balsam or Silver fir. But I could be completely wrong here...?
  12. I had thought that Venetian turpentine is a mixture of Larch turpentine and Colophony. Therefore, Larch is maybe the purer product. It'd be interesting to hear if Larch turpentine would make a good varnish like Strasbourg did.
  13. anyone know whether Larch turpentine or Canada Balsam might be viable alternatives?
  14. Hey all, I wonder whether anyone here has made a Resin/Linseed Oil varnish, to which they did not add any Turpentine (or other solvents) while it cooled (which is something I have always done). What was the outcome like? Were you still able to thin it with a solvent to brush later, or keep it thick for glazing purposes etc.? Any opinions on this would be much appreciated.
  15. Thank you. I look forward to any more replies about using Aleppo Pine Resin for varnish
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