Goran74

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  1. If it is bone, you have to look at casein resin or the widely known galilth (milk stone). You can fill it with milk stone and then use shellac for waterproofing. Also there are some white fillings for various use. There are white types fillings, waterproof and very hard when dry. Many times are used for carrepairs, before coloring. Also, do not forget the soda + cyanoacrylate glue paste.
  2. Thank you very much for your answer. Parts are all silver. Adjuster, by my calculations seems that belongs to the bow. What impressed me was the elastic modulus (close to good bows) and playability, which as you said it does not match with its method of its production. Also the point of curve is very precisely placed (the German way - Lower in to middle in contrast to French models). The smaller form of that bow seems something made on purpose and not by cost reasons.
  3. Hello. This bow is 72,4 total length, 71 cm to nipple and 21,5 head height. It seems German to me. Since it is a bit shorter than the modern's bow common length, would it be considered as 4/4? Any more infos for that model? Thanks
  4. Thank you for the information. Really helpful.
  5. Thank you for your answer and I wish health. I never made a cello bow again (but I have made many violin bows) . Can you please propose me something because I do not have a good model to work on?
  6. Excactly that I mean. I would like to know if there are some deflection measurements of good cello bows. But, even I play violin for years I cannot tell excactly the difference as would do the jig for defelection measurement. Very generally you can decide if the stick it is hard or harder that something else, but at final gradiation you cannot judge properly only by hand (I think).
  7. Thank you. Here there are some numbers for violin bow for example. Is there any similar for cello? Stroup caliper measures at inches if I am not wrong, and the device measures stiffness under load.
  8. Hello. I do not have any master cello bow(s) to measure, but do you know any resources where I could find more about cello bow stick deflection/stiffness? Thank you and I wish health to everybody
  9. Hello. I read older posts on bow making but since they were a long time ago, I think new tools come up. I use the Stanley 9 1/2 for making the stick as 1st plane. Which plane would be good as second, for details, rounding and final dimensions? (Nielsen 101, Ibex flat sole, veritas pocket, kunz 101, herdim flat sole finger plane 18mm etc?) Thank you
  10. I have no words to thank you for your interest and for your time. That was some very valuable information for me. I use Greek resin too and I will seriously think about using painter's thinner-drier. It was proposed by a painter friend I had but I never tried it.
  11. Thanks for your question. I applied a thin coat with a brush, but not diluted. I applied diluted with turpentine and it dries fast. I don't know if the sealer is proper, because maybe the colophony over colophony delays process. I used turpentine till now. What other choices do I have? Thank you a lot
  12. Thank you for your response. I have the Italian text and the translation, but I made a small variation with less mastic and more colophony. I read also with interest your numerous posts about this receipt. I found that you use the same diluted varnish as a sealer in a post, but when I did the same, the wood was soaking unequally to the wood (the known effect when oil goes to wood). So, do y have any suggestion for the sealer? Again thank you Thank you Jim. I do not have UV, I just use the natural light, tea etc. So, it seems to take a lot of time to dry.
  13. Hello. I made some Colophony - Marciana's varnish as proposed "Giovanni" (and I thank him a lot) member here in maestronet (in an older post I had) with the following parts: 3 parts linseed oil (you can see the link for the oil I used - Winsor). Then 2 parts of colophony and 1 part mastic. I used it on different sealers: 1) shellac 2) colophony very diluted in alcohol. I have not tested it with plaster yet. When I dilute the varnish with turpentine (again Winsor) it dries in some hours very nice. So, do I have to use it diluted with turpentine or something goes wrong? Also, does anyone know if the sealer of diluted colophony-alcohol cracks after time? Thank you very much all for your time
  14. Hello again. I made the receipt. Cooked about an hour. The right is not diluted and the left is diluted with turpentine. I like a lot the result. The not diluted dried in less than 48 hours. With turpetine dries a lot faster. I am not still sure if the diluted works well as sealer and does not let pet spots, if wood absorb more than it should. Also I want to test the color that Mr Giovanni proposed. I bought it and I am planning to mix it with diluted varnish.
  15. Thank you so much for your answers and your time. Is there any problem if I use NaNo2 before applying the varnish? I like a lot your suggestion 3:2:1 ratio. My experiments with chemicals have not good results. Basically I see colours like green or pink that I cannot recommend for quality instrument.