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Jwillis

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  1. Setup makes all the difference. For instance, I just had a new bridge cut on one of my violins and it made a huge difference in the overall sound and clarity of my violin. (Not that the old bridge was defective). Post adjustments can radically change a violin sound for the good or bad. If I can’t get it where I want I’ll have my luthier cut a new post and adjust. Very little adjustments can make ALL the difference in the world. I’d recommend finding a good luthier near you that understands what you are wanting. Good luthiers are like going to the dr. They can make your sick violin happy. there are limits though. A super “bright” sounding violin is never going to be adjusted into a viola.
  2. Generalized thoughts about how a “particular model” sounds is silly. You can have the same maker producing two violins off the same mold and they both sound totally different. Based on any number of factors already mentioned in this thread.
  3. I think the point was missed here. Pictures of the cracks themselves can tell a lot more about how they can be properly repaired. Some cracks are much more challenging than others to fix
  4. The bow looks good to me. I own the one pictured in the book. My stick has the same branded initials behind the frog on the bottom of the stick (which is not visible in the vsa book photos)
  5. As always a wealth of knowledge…thanks fiddlecollector
  6. Greetings hoping someone recognizes this brand under the grip. The bow is French
  7. Thanks for all the replies. I think you are correct fiddlecollector. Probably abeille…it just seems less porous than I usually see. The mineral streaks are also slightly more wild. Obviously quite a lot of variation from stick to stick
  8. Greetings, just wondering what sort of wood this is? Slightly different grain figure than I usually see. Amourette? I’m assuming it’s an oldish German bow
  9. If your button is not original there can be variation in the weight from one to another. Changing can perhaps make a difference in the playability of the bow. I just measured a half gram difference between some violin button screws I had laying around.
  10. Greetings, I acquired a great bow stick that I recently had put back into working order. I believe the stick to be of French origin. (The Frog is not original). It appears to be branded “professional” with serifs. I have run into many bows branded professional (without serifs) clearly of German origin however with one is notably better than I typically see. My question…does anyone recognize the shape of this head or perhaps recognize the hallmarks of a particular shop? I know this is probably a fools errand;) Thanks all the best
  11. Ok I concede to the abeille. I see the white streaks it just seems more dense than the typical abeille I see. Also it is dark chocolatey color rather than the red. Shame that it’s been broke
  12. I got this thinking about having it fixed, however I discovered a repaired break just behind the head and discontinued my efforts to have it fixed. Therefore this is purely academic at this point lol. To me this appears to be a French bow. I believe the stick is ironwood. It is very stiff and dense feeling with nice camber. The bow in its current state weighs 53 grams. I’m curious to see if anyone has anything else to add that I missed. Thanks
  13. The bow takes some of the sting out of the price. That is unless you get it and discover the head has been broken off and glued together with super glue;) these sort of auctions I think of as violin roulette. There is some sort of excitement rolling the dice. There is also the possibility the high bidder called/emailed in and got tiny bit of information (ie a picture of the bow that indicated it was a nurnberger or the like) which sorta changes the dynamic. Im not claiming this is a nurnberger (it might be a Sartory ) just making the point
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