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Deo Lawson

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  1. I do a basic slip knot. It forms a big enough knot that it won't slip out of most tailpieces (definitely not baroque style ones). I have never had a string come untied in all my days using gut. To soften up the gut you can curl it around a hard edge, like the spine of a knife. Only do this to the part you're tying, obviously.
  2. Do not put tea and iron anywhere near eachother in the making process, unless you want black chicken pox all over your instrument. That includes steel wool. I've never stained any darker than a light gold with tea, but that was just straight black tea with no additives.
  3. Be careful with the dust. Ipe is one of those especially irritating woods. Fun fact: it's naturally fire-, water-, insect-, and fungus-resitant. A possible marketing angle for military grade violin bows?
  4. Depends on how it broke off. If a neat little sliver came out, which has rough broken surface on both sides, you could fix it with superglue. If the whole corner came off then it's more complicated to make a lasting repair.
  5. I got perfection pegs a few years back and they are simply super. Tight action and real ebony peg heads, at a good price. Lately I think they've changed production or something cause the last set I bought recently was plastic bullsh*t. Cheap feeling heads and backlash. Feels like a lower model but the price is the same. That said I ordered through a shop and not direct this time.
  6. Both Both. Raw root would have to be bone-dry.
  7. It will probably keep for your great grandchildren if you put it somewhere dark, cool, and without a draft.
  8. Really? Well, that would make my life a lot easier. Andrew Carruthers' website says UVa lights are very inefficient at curing oil varnish. If your experience is to the contrary, though...
  9. Hi all, I have a couple instruments with amber varnish that can still be damaged by hard contact with a surface (like a guitar hanger or a capo). They spent a little while in the sun but I suppose the exposure wasn't long or even enough. I want to finish the job with a UV lamp. There is an abundance of UV-A lamps available online, but I've read that what's actually needed is light around the 300nm range. Bulbs at that wavelength are not as easy to find. Is there some brand makers use on here?
  10. Of course it's possible, but the characteristics will not be what you expect from pernambuco. I made few sticks from some mystery wood, using my pernambuco master bow as a reference, and I feel those sticks are altogether too soft (not enough resistance to bending) and too light. To compensate you may have to experiment with making the bow thicker or thinner, adding material at this part of the curve, removing it from another, and so on... After experimenting with a given wood for a while I'm sure you could make master bow out of pretty much any wood.
  11. Ok, haha, my bad for not reading carefully. But then who the heck buys a tele for piezo tone??? And on such a small, acoustically compromised body?
  12. I actually really enjoy the look of this guitar. The one thing that irks me is... Why make the thing out of oh-so-rare instrument spruce when you're gonna drill big ol' holes in it for the pickups and pots The pickups are magnetic anyway, so all that tonewood and hand carved arching does it no good whatsoever. Also, $30'000? Yeah, no. Add it to the pile of grandpa's-attic Strads.
  13. I cut the end of my thumb off with a chisel once. I also sliced the other thumb down the middle with a handsaw. Both injuries happened in a manner not likely to be accidentally reproduced by anyone who isn't an impatient moron! Both thumbs have fully grown back, if you're wondering.
  14. Bigger soundpost and forget about it? You could restore the shape of the top with weight and hot steam, possibly. But have fun regluing the centre seam after that. Maybe someone else has some secret for this that I'm unaware of. Anyway, you'd have to post photos.
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