RedneckEngineer Fred

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About RedneckEngineer Fred

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  1. How about using regular super glue mixed with ebony sawdust?
  2. Thank you. Wish I could install cleats without removing top or back. And agreed,, perfect pitch on some instruments would be getting it to the bottom of the dumpster without hitting the sides.
  3. Thanks Aletrop, how do you recommend I repair it without disassembly?
  4. Dear Friends, thank you for your thoughts. The crack seems to go from top purfling to bottom purfling and is just barely opened. So I was wondering about removing the top rather than disturbing the back, injecting some thin hide glue, pulling the crack together with body clamps, and finishing off with cleats after glue in the crack has dried. Hopefully I can arrach the pictures I took of it.
  5. Please share your thoughts. I took in a violin with a crack the full lebgth of the back on the soundpost side, about 1" from the centerline. Would it be better to remove the back or the belly to gain access? Many thanks, Fred
  6. Dear Friends, I am new to cello repair and to this forum. Really appreciate all the helpful comments you posted about neck reinforcement. So I was thinking . . . . these cello necks broke about an inch below the point where the neck intersects the belly. The strings are exerting a strong pull toward the bridge and tailpiece. I believe the traditional method of repair is to glue the neck back together while still attached to the instrument, then install one or two dowels vertically. Would it be of value to install a dowel at an angle, top of dowel pointing toward the scroll and bottom of dowel pointing toward the top block? And what kind of glue would you recommend? Hot hide? Epoxy? Many thanks for your assistance, Fred
  7. Gentlemen, your replies are fascinating. Proves the proverb that "as iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens the face of his friend." I am new to this, and what you say is educational. Thank you so much for sharing.
  8. Wow, Edi, that is very thoughtful. Didn't occur to me that a dowel in the violin neck would reduce the probability of fingerboard projection changing, but that makes sense. I've been using the bandsaw to cut a spiral groove in the dowels to allow excess glue to escape, and can see that filing a flat or a channel would also work. I like your idea of using tape to protect surfaces from unwanted glue, easier than cleaning it up afterwards. Thank you again for sharing. I am 75, and that's not too old to learn! Best regards, Fred
  9. Thank you, Gentlemen,, I wondered if it was overkill. What you say makes sense. Best regards, Fred
  10. I've recently repaired a couple of Srentor cellos with broken necks for a local music store. They were not broken completely off, but were retained by a small rectangular piece of wood inserted vertically through the neck. Made it easy to locate and glue. Easy repair with a couple of dowels. I am building a violin and wondering about drilling the neck at the heel and installing a dowel as reinforcement, possibly preventing a future break. Maybe that has been done before. Maybe it's overkill. What do you think? Thank you!