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Everything posted by Craigers

  1. that might have really brought them down
  2. These aren't rare, I've come across many of them. Most of the time the quality is pretty poor but if you like it then why not?
  3. what you say is true but if the the hair is spread to thin at the ferrule an aggressive player will break hairs sooner than they would like. I think we can all agree that the "correct" amount of hair is the ideal it's just that I think using the head mortice size as the guide to the amount of hair you use, can sometimes lead to undesired results. The truth is there are many factors that should be considered when trying to determine the "correct" amount.
  4. To me the size of the ferrule is more important than the size of the head mortice because you can adjust the amount of space in the head by changing the size of your block, but the ferrule size is always the same. I see many old french bows that have a wide ferrule but a small mortice in the head. If you use a small amount of hair in these bows, the hair is too thin at the ferrule and will tend to break. You can compensate for this by leaving a little more space at the head block that will allow for the extra hair needed at the ferrule.
  5. I don't think that CA causes any issues with removal of broken tips. A damaged tip can be carefully filed off and and any remaining glue can be removed with solvent.
  6. I always see these on older Scherl & Roth instruments but they usually have quit working by now
  7. The sound will be as silvery as angels wings, amiright?
  8. If you remove the frog from the stick, you can clean any muck that is on the underside and then apply a little baby powder to it. This will allow the frog to travel more freely and do no damage to the stick.
  9. Ok, now I see. that's for folks who don't like their posts with no strings attached.
  10. What's going on with the twine in the picture? it looks like it is underneath the cleat.
  11. Yes, but even after opening this slightly to allow for a more gradual transition, the hair still doesn't want to stay put at the edges.
  12. I normally use bass wood but only the hardest bass wood I can find and cut on the quarter. Again though, I don't have this problem with wooden frogs, only the composite frogs seem to have this issue.
  13. For those of you who rehair bows: There is a certain American company that is very popular for their carbon fiber bows. Now that they also make the frogs from synthetic materials I have noticed an issue, specifically with the cello bows. The issue is that it seems nearly impossible to get the hair to stay spread out for the entire width of the ferrule. After a time the hair always wants to gather in the center of the ferrule leaving small gaps near the edges. I re-hair many bows and only have this issue on this specific type of bow so I know it's not just me. I'm curious if others are having this problem and if they have found any satisfactory work arounds.
  14. Is the frog reasonably tight to the stick? Sometimes if it's loose the frog will rotate around the stick a bit making the bow look crooked. Also, the stick may have a slight weakness or natural curve that can become worse when put under tension. As far as bows with a lot of camber warping when tightened, this has not been my experience and I don't that think this is the issue.
  15. I always called it a pinky leather
  16. Craigers

    Free Pianos

    Here's a banjo bridge I made from recycled piano parts
  17. To me it goes back to the varnish. The varnish from post war European instruments though sometimes antiqued is different than this. If you look at pictures of the Collin Mezins from the 50's that you referenced the varnish is different, if you look at the antiqued Mougenot violins the varnish is different. The only instruments I've seen with this exact type of varnish are from China.
  18. I would be interested to hear why it can't be Chinese. I've seen instruments that look very much like this that I know were made in China. There are many producers in China making instruments of varied styles and quality, so why not this one?
  19. Why not China? The blatant layered and antiqued varnish and lack of a label are just two things that point directly towards a Chinese instrument. The wood for the back looks similar that seen in French instruments but the varnish is wrong.
  20. But that varnish screams made in China!
  21. Looks to me like a rather new Chinese import
  22. I completely agree with # 1 but... We all know #2 is not correct. Disregarding your own judgment and experience to please a customer who is "right" will lead to larger problems. Personally it seems that the only time I have complaints from clients is when I disregard my better judgement and change my normal work procedures to try to please a someone who thinks that they know best. If someone doesn't trust you enough to do work the way you see best then why are they coming you in the first place?
  23. My guess is that the bow that becomes tight either has a weak stick, very little camber or both. Bows that have strong sticks and a lot of camber, while still effected by humidity changes, are much less likely to become overly tight when the humidity decreases. A good rehairer will take notice of these things when working on the bow and adjust accordingly. But like Jerry said, try to regulate the humidity for the health of your whole setup.
  24. Sometimes it's also possible to remove the plug in the head, tie the hair shorter and return the hair and plug. This avoids having to disassemble the frog but is not always possible because mortices in heads tend to be more shallow than those in the frog.
  25. Are you supposed to take it off the instrument before giving the bridge the treatment?
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