woodbldr

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  1. The template was from the International Violin mold set for the 1715 Strad Cremonese model. The odd thing to me is the scrolls for the two violins I made look "chunky" compared to some of the other violins I have. I am not sure if that is due to the model itself or how I made it. I initially tried making the chamfers broader but they didn't look right to me. I'll try a little broader chamfers for the next one. Your other comments are quite helpful, I have a hard time seeing these issues so a second set of eyes is best. Similarly, seeing and removing the gouge marks from the scroll. You can see those when enlarging the pictures. Hopefully the next ones will be an improvement. I am ready to try a different model, such as a Guarneri Kreisler or Cannone but may build more with the the Strad mold. I'll eventually need to decide what to do with all of the violins I have made, I won't have room for them all.
  2. Here are some pictures of the scroll for violin 2.
  3. Thank for the comments. The finish is from International violin. The first one is red brown and the second is brown. However, you can"t tell that due to the poor lighting. In terms of tonal differences, I honestly do not know the answer. The main disadvantage is dimensional stability of plain sawn versus quarter sawn. Anthony is correct in that the back tilts back in each cabinet. I have attached pictures that show that in each section. Left side Center Right side The scrolls do not look very good, so I hadn't though of taking pictures of those. I will take some and will post those later. Danny
  4. I admire those of you that post beautifully constructed and finished instruments. I hope to get there one day, but I guess you got to start somewhere, so here are the first two violins I have made. I call them 10 foot violins; they look good from at least 10 feet away. There are a lot of problems with both of them, but I have learned a lot. For example, quilted hard maple is also not the best wood to learn carving. Apologies for the poor photo quality. Another thing I need to learn. This is my first. The top is European spruce and the back and sides are from a quilted maple board I have had for about 20 years. I was saving this for violin making. Unfortunately, I had a problem with the back arching so it is only 13 mm. I decided to make the top arching similar. This is my second using sitka spruce and the same quilted maple. Again, a lot of things wrong but it is a better attempt than my first. The arch height is abut 15 mm for both the top and back. As for tone, I play fiddle tunes and like the warmer deeper sound most fiddle players prefer. I had a more modest goal for these, though. My goal was to make these sound better than my first student instrument. Number sounded similar, but number 2 exceeded my expectations. I have played with tap-tones and have decided to leave that alone, I need to worry more about improving my construction/finishing techniques and worry about sound improvements later. I was hesitant to show these since they don't look very good, but as I said above you have to start somewhere. I plan on building more, keeping the best construction/finishing notes I can and hopefully making improvements as I go along. Regards, Danny
  5. Yes, yes I am . I have collected these over the past 20 years or so. Most are older Stanleys, some dating around 1900. The wooden molding planes are interesting to me, and are fun to use. I haven't purchased any older planes for a while, but have added Lie-Nielson #1 and #2 planes since I finished this cabinet.
  6. Good Morning all, Amateur builder here, and my first post. This is the workbench I am using to make my violins and to store some of the hand planes I have collected over the years. The pulls for the doors and drawers are violin pegs. Regards, Danny