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Jeddi77

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  1. Thanks so much! I have all of those stones, but lack of experience like yours to tell what to do with them. I really appreciate your response, Jim!
  2. OK… here is my progress after NOT getting the Shapton 16000 stone. These pics are of a new Wood River 2 3/8” plane blade (1/8” thick) which I am honing for the first time. I spent about an hour with my Norton 8000 waterstone, often reflattening it. I wasn’t sure which grit to try at first, so I did spend some time with the 4000 stone, then back at it with the 8000. The back side is barely mirror-like. The bevel has seen the Tormek for a slight hollow grind, and I tried honing it as well, mostly on the the 8000 Norton waterstone. It’s definitely not ready, but I am taking off more metal in the center of the blade, and my stones are being reflattened and I am trying to evenly press on each corner of the blade. Tips? Since you’ve all convinced me that Shapton 16K is not worth it, I’ve purchased a variety of micro-abrasive sand “paper”… and a 10x lighted loupe. Should be arriving this week! QUESTION: Tormek sales video of their SJ-250 (4000 grit) waterstone/wheel says you can get the bevel to be mirror-like in ten minutes. Should I expect a hand sharpening experience on a stone to take longer? I’m hopeful the ‘scary sharp” papers are going to come to the rescue, with the loupe helping me check progress. I’m still wondering if the SJ-250 stone is a time saver, though. Thanks, all!
  3. Another question about sharpening… Has anybody here used the Tormek 4000 grit Japanese Waterstone/wheel? Compared to wet stones or other hand sharpening methods, is it any faster or better? i’m thinking of buying a 16,000 grit Shapton glass stone to improve my sharpening routine, but I’m curious how it stacks up against a 4000 grit Tormek Waterstone wheel. Thank you!
  4. I’ll have to try the “nail shredder” technique and compare it with the loupe... once I get one!
  5. Thanks! I’m sure that would help me understand what is working and not working with my sharpening technique.
  6. Hi, everyone! I've been enjoying reading tips and insights from this forum. I've never made a violin, but played one for many years, even a number of "new American" violins. I've been preparing to make violins myself (gathering tonewood, tools, books, patterns), but a main detail I've not been able to achieve is what grit of stone will give me tools that are sharp enough to do high level work as a luthier of violins? When I look for "sharpening" threads here, I'm overwhelmed by the amount of times that word is used! I'd like to have the fastest way to a sharp, repeatable edge. I do not enjoy sharpening for a long time, although I have spent hours in learning what not to do! I think I have enough gear to do it (perhaps too much), but maybe not: Off-brand diamond stone: 300/1000 Norton sharpening stones: 250/1000 and 4000/8000 + flattening stone (which I had to flatten with my diamond stone) "old" green Tormek grinder with basic gray stone (250 - 1000), with leather stop wheels and "metal polish" paste. Many jigs, too! "Green" polishing compound stick for strop. Currently, I am making "another" strop because I'm not sure the first one I've made is adequate (soft-ish leather) NEW "accu-finish" 6-inch diameter diamond wheels: 60 and 100 grit that I've built a station for, including a hand grinder and tool holder. I have been doing... GRINDING with the tormek (coarsest grade) HONING with the diamond/norton stone 1000, then 4000, 8000 and not very clear on how to use a strop effectively. I think POLISHING with home-made strop and green compound could work. I haven't figured out whether I like the strop wheel on the tormek. Any tips would be helpful if anybody here uses one. I "fear" I have put the wrong kind of paste on the leather wheel and ruined it, but I don't know. The tormek could possibly be sold if my hand grinder came into play (60/100 grit diamond), then do the rest on the stones. I'm fairly good with my hands, but having never needed to sharpen tools before, I'd like to zero in on... What can I do without from my current gear? Is 8000 grit good enough? Is a stop with compound a decent substitute for a higher grit stone (like 16000+)? Thanks, all!
  7. Jeddi77

    F-HOLE DRILL

    I’ve never made a violin before. What would be the problem with using a peg hole reamer?
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