Carl Johnson

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  1. The original DB Unimat is quite expensive, and tooling more so ($100 for a steady rest - collets are a fortune) these days. The biggest advantage is it fits in a small case. There’s a number of smaller Chinese made lathes with much cheaper tooling available now at a similar overall price. Depending on where you are, and your available space, look for used larger lathes too. Atlas or Craftsman branded atlas.
  2. Brad Dorsey described it well. the other problem of course is where you get tortoise shell in the US today.
  3. The kunh regh art of bow making book (I’ve sold it, no affiliation) is the best description of bonding tortoiseshell I’ve found in recent print. limited experience with ivory, but it doesn’t act like shell
  4. There are people that can, the question is repeatability, see the story’s from last years sommelier exam cheating scandal
  5. I have a copy of the library edition of the kun-regh book “the art of bowmaking” and I’m open to offers on it. It’s currently listed on eBay, where you can see pictures as well as feedback. I’m not sure the policy on eBay listings here, I’ll happily delete the link, but felt people might be more comfortable Sold
  6. Chestnut? It’s late but might still have been available and cheap, or stored downed timber. Original range covered almost all of PA. Was used in dulcimers, probably other instruments as well.
  7. A green wood sealer like such: has worked well for me drying other woods. It's a wax/water emulsion I believe, and easy to brush on, might take a couple coats. Remove bark and stack wood, stickered, in an area with reasonable ventilation.
  8. It looks quite interesting.
  9. Very cool! I've wanted to see those in person since I read the Zwerger "Wood Joint" book I probably did see some in the past, just never noticed them....
  10. heated molds have been done for guitars - Arthur Overholtzer made a guitar side shaped and sized mold out of aluminum with an integral electric heating element - but it's easier and cheaper now to use a silicon heating blanket. you can purchase them quite cheap from china on eBay. use a positive mold made from MDF/plywood/chipboard , then various springs/clamps to bend the heated rib over the mold with steam bending in my experience you have problems maintaining surface flatness the more the width exceeds the height of the workpiece.
  11. are there any makerspaces nearby? they often have a range of power tools planer/jointer/thicknesssander that can be used. the one proximate to me is $25 per day. otherwise Makita makes a decent little lunchbox planer.
  12. If you use Corningware you want the Pyroceram version of Corningware, not the stoneware version. The internet has info on how to differentiate. Similarly if you are using Pyrex you want the borosilicate version, not the sodalime version In the US Lodge has an extensive line of cast iron pans
  13. You need quite a shop for a 30" bandsaw. Even more interesting are the big ship saws - the blade moves, the table stays flat - like such Anyways, buy a good bandsaw. If you find yourself needing/wanting a scroll saw eventually they are, imo/ime, quite cheaply available used on the market right now. At least in the midwest. <$100 for a 24" model of heavy iron vintage.
  14. that hyde knife resemble a crude version of the older norris london pattern cutter knife (which is a copy of something else) depending on what wood you use for your handle you could always thread it and use a set screw without an insert. not as durable as an insert, but maybe good enough.
  15. hardwood staircase spindles. cut off where you want, round over the end. They are "ok" I turned myself a nice to me walnut one, but thats because I'm a dork.